Wouldn't this end up with tiny plastic shavings/particles in the ring grooves? I would be concerned that the rings would scrape plastic from the pipe as the "compressor" slides down. But maybe that doesn't happen. I'm just asking, not criticizing. It certainly sounds like an easy way to do it.The very best piston ring compressors I have ever used are 3" house drain pipe pipe plastic clamps from a DIY shop with a bit of 6mm studding and some wing nuts.
You can do them up as tight as you like ,tap the barrel down with a rubber mallet no problems at all.
I have used steel motorcycle type ones + car type ones but they don't come close to the gutter clamps for ease of use or for ease of removal, cheers
Glad to hear this.Yes, and that would be the way I would assemble them.
I sell lots of rings to replace rings damaged by ring compressors. I just use my fingers. Jim
nope no shavings come off ,and for me i find it the easiest method. i have in the past fitted the pistons to the barrel then the gudeon pins and circlips but i find this a bit awkward but maybe with assistance or maybe some means of lowering the barrel this would be better?Wouldn't this end up with tiny plastic shavings/particles in the ring grooves? I would be concerned that the rings would scrape plastic from the pipe as the "compressor" slides down. But maybe that doesn't happen. I'm just asking, not criticizing. It certainly sounds like an easy way to do it.
This mod was already done to the oil tank but thanks for the reminderThere are some reports of the oil tank itself failing (cracking) at the bottom boss. In fact, mine did just that, and had to be reinforced.
Here's one thread on the topic, and I'm sure there are others.
Anything else worth doing?
1. put rubber cushion under oil tank w/o the bottom securing bolt transmitting metal fracturing vibes into tank, after JBWelding the area more robust to shock load tolerance.
2. BoreTech treat bores after final hone sizing
3. Cryogenic temper rod caps and fasteners, cam, crank bearings, valves, crankshaft, trany shafts/cogs, chain, drilled out sprockets and lifters.
4. Titanium Dioxide dry friction coat surfaces.
5. Piston and chamber ceramic coatings.
6. clean up head and cylinder over casting air flow blockers.
7. Drill hole in front head fin air pocket blocking flow through hot spot
8. get silly con rocker gaskets
9. Do BSA AMAL carb fuel flow restriction slot mod
10. Diddle push rod lengths to center rockers on valve stems w/o a head gasket or cylinder base plate to up CR reponse a distinct bit and lessen leak proneness
11. grind very ends off rocker arms to solve push rod remove/install puzzle completely.
12. drill out lighten lifters slide plates 1/2" hole and tiny drain holes on cam lobes.
Hi click, it’s this mod to the float bowls on Amals...
Well, I did ask!!
What a list, apart from not knowing what some of these processes are!, I won't be getting in that deep BUT if you would like to visit Ireland in the next few weeks and get all this done that would be great but bring your own tools as some on this forum think my hammer & adjustable wrench are not of sufficient quality to work on Nortons
One question, No. 9 Do BSA AMAL carb fuel flow restriction slot mod, what is this mod?
Thanks for the link to the mod, never knew about this, don't think I need to be worried about such a mod 'plodding' around on my Norton!!Hi click, it’s this mod to the float bowls on Amals...
One preparation suggestion - you may want to stock up on whiskey
Well, it's in one of my smaller garages so I had to keep the size modest
(you do realise I'm Irish & have my tongue firmly in my cheek )