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Leak Down Test (Don't Laugh!!)

Discussion in 'Norton Commando Motorcycles (Classic)' started by click, Jan 27, 2018.

  1. comnoz

    comnoz VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2008
    I have heard good things about
    PALOQUETH Premium lubricant.
     
  2. worntorn

    worntorn

    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2006
    Now I'm confused. I've always thought my Norton was a guy.

    Glen
     
  3. wrecks

    wrecks

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2012
    I'm glad to see that comnoz selects a "vegan friendly" lubricant for his bike.
     
  4. Deets55

    Deets55 VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2013
    Oh No!!
    Jim that is a slippery slope you are leading us to. I realize your knowledge base is extremely diverse, but.............
    Pete
     
    Nater_Potater likes this.
  5. Jagbruno

    Jagbruno

    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2014
    Soooooo, Redline seems to be an excellent product. Is it safe to switch to it from 20-50 mineral that I have been using since my engine was rebuilt 3 years ago?

    (Tongue in cheek mode: 'on')
     
  6. 850commando

    850commando

    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2014
    and I thought we were having a serious discussion JB now you're off topic.:D the highjack has us using the Comnoz recommended solution.... not sure where to add it...:confused: are we laughing now ? for a thread that started "...don't laugh".... were out of the ball park.
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2018
  7. cliffa

    cliffa

    Joined:
    May 26, 2013
    Don't use it! - it makes your eyes water at WOT (I've been told:rolleyes:)
     
  8. click

    click VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2008
    What are you guys like:rolleyes: I leave the forum for a few hours & you all get distracted by lubrication and not the kind for your Norton, well I hope not!!

    I got an email back from a mate of the chap who built my bike. I was told that he had worked part time for Fred Barlow (Jeff Smith’s old factory mechanic before moving over to Norton) and he also did a couple of days per week for Pete Lovell for several years. So he would have known what he was doing with Norton's.

    I can only put this down to a bad day on behalf of the builder or a bad product! I really think the 920 is pushing the Norton Commando to the absalute limit. Norvil's original conversion worked but was not very reliable, issues like mine are not uncommon and worse can happen!!

    I count myself lucky!!, considering the state of the pistons, especially the RH one, I'd say it would not have been long before an engine seizure/lockup, not something I'd want to experience!!

    I have the barrels boxed up with the gudgeon pins, so Jim can match the pistons to them. I've also included the old 920 pistons for Jim to have a look at. I might be cheeky & ask Jim if he can measure the bore against the LH piston, which is in slightly better condition than the right. As somebody else said this might be a waste of time due to the damage to the pistons but Jim can call this one!

    I'm going out to the Norton to trace the electrical problem:eek:
     
  9. lcrken

    lcrken VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2009
    Well, if you get an unexpected inheritance or win the lottery, there's still the Maney 1007 cc option.

    Ken
     
  10. MexicoMike

    MexicoMike

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2010
    Or Drouin! Back in the day that was what I lusted (unsuccessfully) after for my 750 Commando.
     
  11. Grumpy knob

    Grumpy knob

    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2014
    I`ve got some heavy weight barrels on the shelf that measure out at about 890cc and would be interested to know what pistons might fit if you`ve come across these before.

    http://s628.photobucket.com/user/skip-rat/media/Norton/IMG_2283_zpsdqqg1zgx.jpg.html?sort=3&o=7

    Regards, Al.
     
  12. comnoz

    comnoz VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2008
  13. Jagbruno

    Jagbruno

    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2014
    80mm would be the same as Laverda 750SF if my memory is correct...ASSO and Meteor make forged pistons of that size...
     
  14. click

    click VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2008
    Lets see if we can bring this discussion back on point . . . . . . . . you in the back, yes you, put that tube of whatever you have down and you on the right, yes you, put that brochure down about Drouin parts, wipe the drool off your face and pay attention :D

    I have the barrels packed up & ready to be sent to Jim, but they won't be sent till Monday, So . . . . .

    When I get the barrels back my next jobs will be fitting the rings + fittings the pistons + barrels.

    Any advice on the best way of doing this?

    Some guys have suggested fitting the pistons into the bores first then fitting the pistons to the rods, can't see how you can hold all this together while fitting the gudgeon pins!!

    Fast Eddie had a great picture of a piston holder, (see below). I can see this being useful while lowering the barrels down but it would be fiddly getting the rings to spring into the bores or is it easier than I think?

    How about the use of ring compressors?

    For Fast Eddie, what's the red 'gunk' on the cam? some type of run-in goo?

    Anything else worth doing while the barrels are off?

    I've been trying to check the oil return hole in the casing but it seems to take a right angle turn from the hole in the case so getting wire down is difficult. I've squarted oil down the hole & it flows nicely down without overflowing. I've also used compressed air & again there is no restriction that I can detect, I'm happy to call the passageway clear.

    I'm going to try & measure the lift of the cam later with a digital vernier and report the results back here so you clever Norton chaps can tell me what type of cam it is, I'd say it's a standard cam.

    FE piston holder.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2018
  15. Deets55

    Deets55 VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2013
    What ever way you decide to install your pistons just make sure to stuff rags or something similar around your connecting rods to prevent a circlip falling into the engine. Could be a PITA to find.
    I used a piece of plywood resting on the barrel bolts to support the pistons. Plywood had a notch to clear the rods. I also used ring compressors. Mine were standard bore so there was plenty of chamfer on the bore bottoms allowing them slide in pretty easy. I don’t know how much chamfer is on an 880 so it might be easier to have the piston in the bores ahead of time.
    I would also be thinking about base and head gaskets I don’t know how easy they are to locate. When in doubt ask Jim, he will have the answer.
    Pete
     
  16. oldmikew

    oldmikew

    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2015
    you need two ring compressors and 4 bits of wood . Slide these under the pistons so they are fully supported and cannot tilt Do protect the rods with tape so they are not scratched or marked by a tilting piston skirt.
     
  17. click

    click VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2008
    Thanks for the reply Pete, good suggestion about the rags!!. I've already asked about the copper head gasket for the 880 & Jim can supply same. I did not ask about base gasket, thought a standard one would fit? The 920 barrel had a standard base gasket fitted.

    I forgot to attach Fast Eddies pic, see above, this looks like a similar setup to your plywood. Did you have enough space for the ring compressor to slide down with the plywood supporting under the piston?
     
  18. Fast Eddie

    Fast Eddie VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2013
    My piston support is a rather extravagant slab of PTFE left over from another job, but plywood or alloy etc would work fine.
    With piston ring clamps and a support like this, it is a piece of cake.
    The ‘red gunk’ is Redline assembly paste.
     
  19. click

    click VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2008
    Good call on taping up the rods!
     
    NorCat likes this.
  20. click

    click VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2008
    I might have a chunk of thick perspex lying around somewhere! Thanks for the 'red gunk' identification!
     

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