Kick Start Lever

I have looked at a number of old posts but would like some fresh input. My 71 kick lever has always touched the muffler.
It never bothered me. Now it hits the muffler too much and cannot return back up without help. One can see that the
lever has been bent over time. I don't need a longer lever or any of that stuff, I just want it to clear the muffler. Why a Mark 3
lever is $80 plus and a mk1 and mk2 is $42 I don't know. Please enlighten me if there is added clearance with the Mark 3 lever.
Or should I just re bend mine and be happy.

Yes, there is added clearance using the MK3 kick starter.

Other than some encroachment on the ankle, everything about the Mk 3 kicker is better.
Sitting side by side, it is quite evident.

I know they're dearer again but I can thoroughly recommend the RGM folding version.
Gives longer length (I know you said you don't need it - but it's good), it gives best clearance during kick of all of them and it folds completely out of the way - nothing behind your leg/foot.

robs ss said:

I know they're dearer again but I can thoroughly recommend the RGM folding version.
Gives longer length (I know you said you don't need it - but it's good), it gives best clearance during kick of all of them and it folds completely out of the way - nothing behind your leg/foot.

Click to expand...

I have a similar interest. Are you talking about their MK3 version (RGM part number 121018)?

I like the RGM folding kickstand. Much better for my herniated disc. I took a couple of photos for you.

Slammin said:

I have a similar interest. Are you talking about their MK3 version (RGM part number 121018)?

KICKSTART GENUINE LEVER, 850 MK3

121018 RGM NORTON KICKSTART LEVER ASSEMBLY 850 MK3 LEVER 12.1018 06.2429

www.rgmnorton.co.uk

Click to expand...

No - part number 050179 - it actually clears my non-folding rear sets on my 500 single (in avatar)

If you just need clearance this offset plate is available at Andover.
https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details/15673/silencer-mount-bracket. I have one and it sets the pipe in about 3/8 of an inch.

If you don't care what the end result looks like heating and bending should solve your problem. I don't know enough about metallurgy, however, to say if such an effort will weaken the shaft, but I'd hope someone with such knowledge will add an informed opinion. My concern for you is that applying heat to affect the clearance bend may lead to crystallization that could suddenly break and cause you bodily harm. Assuming that the shaft will safely tolerate heating and bending and you greatly favor function over form you should be good to go.

If your plan is to make the bend and get the part rechromed then I suggest you may want to reexamine the value proposition.

I have had to deal with this irritation and found that you can "buy" some clearance by putting a washer between the ISO stud spacer and the "Z" plate and/or by reducing the length of the threaded gussets on the silencer; you can, usually, get the header/silencer to tuck in a bit by rotating the header at the head. Any one of these, or a combination could give you the clearance you're looking for.

Or, as noted in other responses, you can throw your wallet to the wind and choose a different (new) k/s lever.

Which way are you now leaning?

Best.

I've always thought it somewhat ironic that the electric start version has a better kickstart!

I thank you all for your excellent advise and esp pictures. I am now leaning toward putting the current starter in a press and see what I can do.
There is no question the current lever has over time twisted and become closer to the muffler. One can see the pop out foot lever is not perpendicular to the
bike. I would bend too if some brute, not giving any names, kicked me all the time. i will try cold press first and if no cooperation add some heat.
I have nothing to lose by giving it a go. Do not like the idea of it snapping off after working it over. But, it has been worked over for 19 years already.
I must say my trusty steed lit off on the 2nd kick after a slumber of more years than I remember. My bike has been bullet proof for all these years with minimal
upkeep and nary one modification that she came with. The Boyer ignition. Never been stranded and nothing ever fell off. What more can one ask for.

The original 750 kicker cleared the exhaust pipe because the pipe tucked in closer to the frame rail.
OEM pipe v.s. aftermarket:

maylar said:

The original 750 kicker cleared the exhaust pipe because the pipe tucked in closer to the frame rail.
OEM pipe v.s. aftermarket:

View attachment 16384

Click to expand...

And they look neater too.

Northton said:

If you just need clearance this offset plate is available at Andover.
https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details/15673/silencer-mount-bracket. I have one and it sets the pipe in about 3/8 of an inch.

Click to expand...

That has to be the simplest and cheapest fix, so why not try that before starting to bend stuff ?

robs ss said:

I know they're dearer again but I can thoroughly recommend the RGM folding version.
Gives longer length (I know you said you don't need it - but it's good), it gives best clearance during kick of all of them and it folds completely out of the way - nothing behind your leg/foot.

Click to expand...

So how you gonna know when that pesky layshaft bearing needs attention without that helpful little tap on the shin ?

EstuaryBoy said:

So how you gonna know when that pesky layshaft bearing needs attention without that helpful little tap on the shin ?

Click to expand...

Ohhh - I feel an opportunity to develop a kickstart movement detection gizmo!

Gadge said:

Ohhh - I feel an opportunity to develop a kickstart movement detection gizmo!

Click to expand...

A 5G friendly, Windows 10 compatible , downloadable app sounds about right, never be as good as the real thing, but hey.... that's progress (Don't forget to lock and copyright the software too, make the b*ggers pay!)

Nortoniggy said:

I've always thought it somewhat ironic that the electric start version has a better kickstart!

Click to expand...

I suspect it was the marketing boys worried that the improved KS lever getting onto earlier bikes might reduce sales of the MKIII ES machines.

My pipes are original and I have never touched the tightening ring. The pipe runs the correct distance from
the frame. Both sides are equal. But, I see your point.