Kick start bang bang peashooter

Skyguyz · May 9, 2011

OK, So whats up with the 850 mk2 kick start lever just barely scraping the peashooter all the time
I mean I have the OEM peashooter mounts and my kick start lever is stock. It just hits the peashooter and scuffs it up. Is the mounts worn? or what is the common denominator in this situation?

Here is a cost prohibited alternative:

$239 !!!

vs stock

So, I think this has been discussed before but I can't find it using the search festure. Hummmm, I'm thinking a thinner rubber peashooter mount???

Thoughts?

bwolfie · May 9, 2011

You can purchase that kick lever from RGM for 95pounds plus shiping, should work out to around $175. A little better. I'm using a MKIII lever, it has a litttle more clearance.

batrider · May 9, 2011

There are two versions of the stock Commando K/S lever. The later one, which I think was used on the Mk111s, will easily clear the muffler. I did this to my Combat after many years of scratched muffler.

Yes, you can fiddle with the muffler positioning when tightening the mounting bolts and head nut but it is still very close with the earlier lever.

Also, shop around. These can be found (new) at normal prices. I bought a complete assembly a while ago - very nice and a big improvement.

Edit:
Complete ass'y:
pre Mk3: 061464
Mk3: 121018 (crank arm only is 066397)

travelerjerry · May 9, 2011

MK III kickstart lever was the answer for me on my 72 Combat. No more scratched right muffler.

Skyguyz · May 9, 2011

OK, so it sounds like the Mk3 setup is the way to go. Hummm, Another "brilliant" design for all the mk2's out there.

Thanks again for the great intel and speedy replies

As the British salesman sez: "You have to be a bit of a sport to drive one."

swooshdave · May 9, 2011

The need for the MkIII levers on the earlier bikes probably has more to do with aftermarket exhausts than something wrong with the original kickstarter.

Josh Cox · May 9, 2011

I'm dealing with exactly this problem at the moment. My mufflers are not new, the kick starter and pinion is (Norvill).

Is it posible the original starter pinions were 12mm longer, my mufflers are "toga" branded.

Have removed half of the mount on the muffler, ground away the centre of the bolt in the kick starter ( to pull the starter partially off the spline ) and finally resorted to putting a ding in the muffler where the kick starter was striking.

I very much get the feeling the kick starter is the problem, I also get the feeling the kick starter starting to bend.

A very disappointing experience, was going to buy new mufflers soon and I guess I'll have to buy another new kick starter.

batrider · May 9, 2011

swooshdave said:
The need for the MkIII levers on the earlier bikes probably has more to do with aftermarket exhausts than something wrong with the original kickstarter.

Nope it was always like that on my bike and friend's 71. You can minimize by holding in the muffler joint while tightening but it is just bad juju. I'm on my third exhaust system now and using Toga everything.

Original - scratch went all the way through wall of muffler eventually
2nd - Structurally OK but cat squirtum removed chrome from muffler. Didn't smell good either.
3rd - OK so far. I think the Togas are decent quality

xbacksideslider · May 9, 2011

I noticed that my muffler was getting scratched, then I readjusted the lever. Fixed it. Most of the problem was in the positioning of the clamp on the spline; I made certain to cinch it tightly in the non-interference position so that it could not revert to interference.

bpatton · May 9, 2011

There is a way to fudge things a little at the mounting bracket if you have enough extra length on the exhaust pipe. I made an oval shaped plate to attach to the muffler with three holes in it. Whatever the distance between the centers on the muffler mounts are, that's how far apart the holes are from each other. The muffler uses the rear and center hole. The bracket (061721) uses the center and the front hole. What it winds up doing is moving the muffler back about 2". The muffler gets whacked on the taper, so by moving the muffler back it gets out of the way. If you want to be fastidious, you can get some stainless sheet and make a pair of proper single piece replacements for 061721.

swooshdave · May 9, 2011

ML · May 10, 2011

Where the diamond shaped plate that holds the muffler rubber bushes mounts on to the alloy Z plate, you can space the whole muffler assembly inwards by inserting thick washers between the diamond plate and the Z plate. Loosen the exhaust header nut, fit the washers and then re-tighten the header nut. Make sure that the upper most stud on the rubber bushes does not strike the swingarm. It's not the ideal solution but with after market pipes it'll get you going.

Mick

Josh Cox · May 10, 2011

Have wrangled a reasonable solution ( big post down the bottom ):
post105947.html#p105947

bpatton · May 10, 2011

ML said:
It's not the ideal solution but with after market pipes it'll get you going.

Mick

This seems like a good time to give a shout out for Viking. I got a set of Roadster pipes a while ago. The welds are perfect, 60thou wall thickness, nice chrome, and wonder of all, they fit. No fettling 1/4" clearance at the KS. They actually just bolted right on. Couldn't believe it.

Kick start bang bang peashooter

Similar threads