Just my luck recently...

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Or.... with the ‘right’ pipe for you....

Just my luck recently...
 
Ken McIntosh is in New Zealand. I bought my last clutch cable from him and got a plumber to solder the nipple on. I think it was silver-soldered.
 
Be careful if you turn any of the rear brake levers upside down. The rear brake might operate when the rear suspension is compressed. My mate did it once on an Ariel Square Four. Crashed the bike.
 
Danno said:
How does wheel travel not cause the pedal to move up and down on it's own?
Click to expand...
It’s on the ramp at the moment so I’ll have a look at that. My hunch is that as the brake pedal pivot is so close to the swinging arm spindle, it just doesn’t matter. This is, after all, how the majority of Brit bikes were (still are) set up.

But also, this spring is is weak maybe it absorbs any minor movement?

12E2E3C0-B2F6-4E89-BA6A-9D8B5023896C.jpeg
 
Danno said:
How does wheel travel not cause the pedal to move up and down on it's own?
Click to expand...

Good question; food for thought.

The brake rod, utilized in Fast Eddie's implementation has 2 pivot points; at the pedal and the trunnion at the rear. I too haven't noticed and untoward movement in the brake pedal during application (cable link). I think Fast Eddie's hunch is on-the-money, and with the standard rear brake cable setup I suspect that the movement would be equal or less. Nothing like the feel of a hydraulic disk brake that is out-of-round, or when an ABS kicks in.
Fast Eddie said:
It’s on the ramp at the moment so I’ll have a look at that. My hunch is that as the brake pedal pivot is so close to the swinging arm spindle, it just doesn’t matter. This is, after all, how the majority of Brit bikes were (still are) set up.
Click to expand...

Similarly the Taylor and Comstock head steadies induce a fraction of angular displacement as the engine moves up and down. As a side note there are some recent posts about the tie rod ends, so to speak, on the Comstock head steady wearing which made me wonder if those effected had dynamically balanced engines?

Best.
 
Ok, Danno you were right... and so was I...

I removed the end adjuster nut and measured the rod protruding through the actuating arm bush. I did this at full extension and a full compression positions.

This measurement increases by just over 2mm at full compression vs full extension.

In other words, the movement of the swinging arm wants to push the rod forwards, so push the pedal down, at full compression.

It doesn’t push my pedal down as it has a return spring, instead the movement is absorbed by the springs (both internal on the shoes and external on the rod) and the general take up of slack. If I hadn’t measured it as I did, I wouldn’t have been able to see it (which is what I’d done previously). But it is definitely something that folk should be mindful of if doing a similar mod.

If it was going the other way, and putting the brake on, it would be more of a concern I feel.
 
Fast Eddie said:
Ok, Danno you were right... and so was I...

I removed the end adjuster nut and measured the rod protruding through the actuating arm bush. I did this at full extension and a full compression positions.

This measurement increases by just over 2mm at full compression vs full extension.

In other words, the movement of the swinging arm wants to push the rod forwards, so push the pedal down, at full compression.

It doesn’t push my pedal down as it has a return spring, instead the movement is absorbed by the springs (both internal on the shoes and external on the rod) and the general take up of slack. If I hadn’t measured it as I did, I wouldn’t have been able to see it (which is what I’d done previously). But it is definitely something that folk should be mindful of if doing a similar mod.

If it was going the other way, and putting the brake on, it would be more of a concern I feel.
Click to expand...
Sounds like the movement isn't large enough to be noticeable unless you really look for it. Older drum-braked (rear) Japanese bikes had a cast-in drop connected to an arm that allows the drum to pivot slightly as the suspension moves. Possibly this is why they didn't affix the drum directly to the swingarm, like Norton did. Some had cables and some had rods.
 
Nigel's setup, while spiffy, is more work than I think this needs right now.

That said, getting the nipple soldered on (by the shop who happens to be the NZ EBC distributor) ended up not as clean as I had hoped.

He seemed a plain ended nipple with no ferrule on it, and his wife said he had done the best he could matching it to the trunnion I left with him too.

I was worried about the plain cable popping out of the trunnion, so I cut down a split pin and closed it around and JB Welded it to the cable and the ball end so that would sit inside the trunnion. I will probably find someone else to make up a cable with proper ends using Les' yoke, and relegate this one to the tool pocket.
 

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Grr.. and now the speedo drive puked out grease after a week of commuting every day and a spirited ride home in 30C Temps...
 
Maybe there will be extra pickle next week.

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Serranos are tasty. That speedo drive is why I have an GPS set up now..... No complaint on the china thing either, although I do have the correct items on hand. But why change it when it's working so well?
 
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