- Nov 20, 2012
Brilliant job Cliff, it looks spot on.
Thanks Auldblue. I cut the disc by hand using a fine fretsaw. I find it very theraputic.Brilliant job Cliff, it looks spot on.
That's a Mk1A/Mk2A tray as it has the side panel Dzus bracket which the Mk3 tray does not have.Unfortuntaley I hit another stumbling block on Tuesday. It seems my bike has a MKIII battery tray fitted ( i.e. battery across the frame).
Ah yes thanks Les, now it becomes clear. The picture on the Andover spares section shows my version 06.4128 from the bottom so I couldn’t recognize it.That's a Mk1A/Mk2A tray as it has the side panel Dzus bracket which the Mk3 tray does not have.
Torontonian, do you mean the clutch centre? If so I had intended to use a Belleville washer but couldn’t get one that size, so for the time being I’ve used the tab washer and locking compound. ( the clutch centre is worn so I’ll be stripping it down again soon).Yes the bend over tab washer is a mistake of the past as once the nut comes loose it holds things sloppily in place enough to get you home with an unpleasant clutch. Use a better circlip ,with a lower Torque and Loctite to the nut /shaft threads.
Ah! gotcha. Thanks for that Torontonian, I'll get one when I get the new clutch centre. Will it still fit inside the machined recess in the existing spacer, or will I need another spacer as well?By the way my Nort looks the same as yours , same bodywork , paint and seat , bars etc. , only it's the e-start model. The circlip I refer to would be the small one that supports the entire clutch basket , slides over the Mainshaft before fitting the clutch itself. There is a better circlip that provides better support with a tighter fit in the recess , less basket sloppiness. PN 06-8072 . It will need progressive thinning down in size on an abrasive flat surface until it can be slid over the mainshaft then tapped home tight in that slot. Try it next time the primary is apart .
Silver, like my hairYes it will fit. Just set up a flat plate with some emery paper taped to it. Do circular motions ( wearing light gloves ) to one side of the circlip. Do a few careful slips onto the mainshaft and into the slot test-fits , until the circlip just needs to be lightly tapped (Tight) into place. The goal is a tight fit with no sloppiness like the original one. Really helps with clutch rocking issues. Also helps with mainshaft clutch nut retention.
Silver is a mature good looking colour scheme for mature riders yes.
Thanks GP, I bought that one as it’s recommended by Alton, however had I known what a pain it would be to squeeze in it would look for alternatives as you’ve suggested. Anyway it’s in now and I’m really pleased with the starter. It only needs the briefest of spins and the engine fires up. Happy Days !!You can mount AGM and other non-acid batteries on their sides, if that helps...
You need to buy spare shear rods, if you didn't already. From everything I've read over the years, you need to have a set with you, as well as tools to swap out the sheared ones, "just in case".Thanks GP, I bought that one as it’s recommended by Alton ... I’m really pleased with the starter.
Just looking at your bike photos i didn't realize you have exactly the same setup as meThe weather was amazing here today, so I decided to do the work outside. The back of my neck is now glowing like an LED stoplight.
Anyway, I digress, As you good folks told me the 1/2" WW for the crank, and a 3/4" a/f (19mm) were the correct for the clutch nut ( which was already fitted with a pushrod seal nut) Hey - Ho. I have a battery impact driver (rattle gun) and that made short work of getting those off. If you don't have one already I can highly recommend them. I have now identified the belt drive as a Norvil variant. This of course is the most difficult to fit, as the front pulley needs to have recess machined in it Anyway there was no hardened steel washer under the clutch nut, and when I went to bend back the tab on the tab washer it just fell off !! Before removing the clutch I did notice quite a lot of "wobble" on the outer body. has anybody else noticed this on a Norvil setup? Once I got it off and span it the bearings seemed to be smooth and silent, so maybe this is to be expected? One thing that definitely looks like it need replacing very soon is the clutch center, as it's quite grooved.
Anyway here are some pics of today's progress..
Cutting the case for the outrigger was a pain, but looking at the length of what would be an unsupported mainshaft I really think it's worth keeping it.
More updates tomorrow...
I took a page from a long-time Norton rider who advised, when I asked about what (if anything) I should safety wire, replied, "Safety wire any parts you want to keep; don't worry about the others!" SO, when I installed the Alton in late '12, I tossed the tab washer and safety wired that nut...as well as all the others that connect stuff I want to keep! Pretty much the only thing that can fall off my Norton is me!I used the tab washer in the past, but I once had the nut come adrift, (fortunately close to home) I now use both tab washer and red Loctite.