Jim Schmidt composite fork bushes tiny screws?

fitting JMS teal bushes and found 4 tinu allen screws I don't know the purpose for. There is 2 tiny bleed holes in staanchion bottoms but don't see a reason to block these.

hobot said:

fitting JMS teal bushes and found 4 tinu allen screws I don't know the purpose for. There is 2 tiny bleed holes in staanchion bottoms but don't see a reason to block these.

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I think there are directions for how to do this in the kit. If I remember right the screws are for relocating the holes so they function properly cover/uncover. You tap the old holes and plug with the screws and drill new ones...I may be wrong because I haven't messed with the forks for a while. You could contact Jim...

OK thanks. that's what I was hoping instead of for trapping bushes. Peel forks have factory provided hydraulic silencer functional at factory designed 6"+ travel so blocking the tiny bleed holes would be counterproductive. Also finally sunk in with out damper the drop in gold cartrige emulators with work as designed but may have to cut damper tubes off at base of their cap threads. Compress dampening set by their spring screw valves and rebound by thickness of fluid.

This is from the instructions

"If you have longer than stock damper rods or are using aluminum sleeves to soften harsh “top-out” then you must plug the 1/8” diameter oil escape hole in the bottom of the fork tube (just above the lower bushing) or you will not get the necessary oil cushion to soften the top-out. Thread the 1/8” holes with a 6-32 tap and use the set screws (coat the threads with JB weld epoxy to keep them in place). Make sure the set screws are not proud of the surface or installed too deeply. Smooth any leftover burrs off with fine abrasive. Some models have four 1/8” holes." (two in each leg)

Ok Jimmy that's what I was hoping as past Peel had rather longer rods and now no rods so factory top out works as designed and can keep the bleed hole safe reliefs and return the sand grain plugs back to recycle. Just can't get over how solid your bushes feel yet slick as pig poo. Only 3 issues were noticed on Peel, otherwise none at all, fork end blurring was one of them so will be able to see and video their reversed action better. At Peel powered entry rates she'd lift front out of effective traction for bike length or more so front humming, howled and chriped but could not tell if all was well fork and suspension still in full control even through tire not road following much or if tire was also responding to fork slackness vibes. Never had a slip out but just as front got to singing the edge of road/bluff face was only couple feet away zoom up so chop throttle in hope front would snag enough to help the hi side up in time. Its that last instant of load spike off front I feared resonance messing with. If too much reasonance stuff like dust and sand or cracks is all it'd take to ski off path. W/o harmonic esculation can ride like the wind over all sorts of textures w/o loosing control. On moderns when I get frame and forks buzzing similar to tire sounds, unpredictable grip states onset and they fall down or pop up w/o pilot decison. At least Peel always had to be forced w/o any surprise to slide and then didn't fall over of fly up just slide like a kids toy in hand. Uncanny to get used to point of trusting life on it but that my carol and flame this era of life. IS size tank slosh and ground effects lift/drop are the other two death shockers to solve. Smaller tank for tract days &or tank foam should solve that. Don't know what to do about the ground effects scares yet. Peel had mythical level miracle isolation of everything so distinctly I could tell the fork sliders eddies were involved with the lift drop in the 60's+ mph peg foulers. I do feel a small drag chute at rear loop level may aid harsher tight turns. Go fast enough and earo effects really matter. Stevey