It'll start first kick, right?
- Thread starter swooshdave
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I've had my Peel w Boyer start up with key going in/out store in few minutes.
There have been a least two others on other lists report same thing. Rare but happens. We discussed how to try it on purpose by easy kick of engine over to prime a charge then send power to Boyer by key on or kill tap with key on.
Other have had a startle by a warm engine fire a good cough when key turned, or of course a loose connection jostled. Old air craft used this method.
I've hand started both Combat just to see if I could, when they were in one swing start condition w/o back fire. They had full compression so full boot slam better.
I am not good at sitting and starting, my my bud Wes does it routinely on his '71.
You could poll the list I'd bet you get a few reporting hand starts for fun.
There have been a least two others on other lists report same thing. Rare but happens. We discussed how to try it on purpose by easy kick of engine over to prime a charge then send power to Boyer by key on or kill tap with key on.
Other have had a startle by a warm engine fire a good cough when key turned, or of course a loose connection jostled. Old air craft used this method.
I've hand started both Combat just to see if I could, when they were in one swing start condition w/o back fire. They had full compression so full boot slam better.
I am not good at sitting and starting, my my bud Wes does it routinely on his '71.
You could poll the list I'd bet you get a few reporting hand starts for fun.
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DogT said:
I'm limping a bit from the kickbacks.
You notice who started the "stupidest things" thread....So there was a previous discussion about piston stops and then someone said you couldn't use a dial indicator. What I did with the dial indicator is set it as some distance BTDC, set the indicator at 0, and set the timing wheel at 0. Then we moved the pistons up and over until the indicator said 0 again (it was actually a couple revolutions). Timing wheel then said 14, rotated the crank back half to 7. Then check the rotor and it was dead on at 28. I remember someone saying that if you use the cam to time then 4x to get the crank number. I hope that's right. Sure made it easier to start. :mrgreen:
I think I got this out of a Classic Bike who-knows-how-many-years-ago. Stuck it on the cam.
I'm pretty sure I can trust the marks. We'll put the timing light on it tomorrow.
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DonOR said:
They are Honda MX bars. I had tried them on my Pursang but they were too narrow. They seem to do ok here. The handlebars come within .025" of the tank. Might need to go to ace bars or clipons soon.
Believe it or not, it's true. Years ago when Alain DeCantenet was doing programs about classic cars and motorcycles he mentioned that it can be done with the kill button. He also mentioned that chauffeurs used to do it on their Rolls before they had starter motors to demonstrate the superior fit of their engine parts, (slow leak down). They would hand crank the engine past TDC on the firing cylinder then get in the car and flip the switch back and forth. I guess he was talking about coil-battery systems.grandpaul said:
I think what was being said about finding TDC with a dial idicator was that the rate of change of the piston height relative to crank degrees made it hard to do it accurately at TDC. That's very smart to use the indicator to set an arbitrary distance away from TDC and then split the difference between BTDC and ATDC and call it TDC, basically the same as using a piston stop. Isn't the crank turning at 2x the cam?
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bpatton said:
It is. Or something like that.
I think the 4x is because the degree wheel assumes it's being used on the crank? Anyways it worked even if the math was a little, uh, fuzzy.
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