Isolastic kits what and where

I'm in a bit of a panic, thought I ordered a pair of isolastic kits from Paul, woke up with a start to realize I hadn't, last shipment of parts is nearly ready to ship form the states, so my question is this, what kit should I buy that isn't horrible to install, will last a few years and preform well, and where should I buy it? I'm OK with either the US or the UK if need be.

Chris from a very cold Namibia.....

Chris,
Mick Hemmings' adjusters have it over the MkIII's, IMHO. Get'em at:

http://www.mickhemmings.com/

What is it about the Mick Hemmings units that make them better in your opinion? Is it just because you don't have to remove 1/4" from the stock tube? Are they easier to use than the Mk3 type in practice?

I have no problems with the shimming using the older system. You don't need to play with it that often. Some people have said the vernier adjustment improves the handling but I just don't see how. Also I remember some discussion quite a while ago about the new rubber being harder. Is this still the case?

I would "upgrade" if there was a good reason for it.

What I have gleaned through intensive reading (which may not work for me) is that there are 2 styles of isos out there, the original with shims, the original with Hemmings adjusters, (I consider these 2 the same style because they use old softer rubber parts and spacers and clips to hold the rubbers), and the later style single piece adjustable isos with the harder rubber which required machining the front mount (but there are the newer styles available that don't need to be machined). It may also depend on if you have a 750 or 850, it seemed to me the heavier 850's could use the stiffer rubber parts of the later adjustable isos.

I opted for the old style parts and shims with the intention of some day upgrading to the Hemmings adjusters. Your mileage may vary.

Dave
69S

batrider said:

What is it about the Mick Hemmings units that make them better in your opinion? Is it just because you don't have to remove 1/4" from the stock tube? Are they easier to use than the Mk3 type in practice?

Click to expand...

They are easier to use. You can make adjustments with an allen wrench without loosening the mounting bolts. It makes it easy to make adjustments on a ride. The MkIII bushes and buffers are mounted on a thin metal tube. I had a set at one time and found it difficult to get the setting consistently after adjusting the collar when I tightened the mounting bolts. Even when I used never-size and a torque wrench I found it never came out. My theory is that the tube is thin enough to crush enough when you torque the nuts that it throws the setting off. The pre-MkIII bushes and buffers are cast on segmented metal collars that are much thicker, and once they're tightened down with the Hemmings units you leave them alone.

I use the 10thou setting as a starting point. I don't actually measure the clearance. I found that the rear needs much less clearance than the front and in both cases it's less than 10thou total. When I put a DT headstedy on I found that the glass smooth adjustment window is very narrow. Too loose actually makes the vibration worse. But when you hit it just right the handling and smoothness is remarkable. It would be a royal PITA to try to find it with the MKIII's or shims.

The stainless verier adjustables I sell do not require modifying the front mount. Pre-MkIII, OR MkIII (just specify).

In my opinion, the ultimate isolastic replacements anywhere.

Having upgraded some years ago to the one piece tube with bonded rubbers, I was surprised to learn that I'd fitted what I call the "Atlas conversion". It was truly awful. Better over 3500 but a real shaker up to then. After a couple of years it's settled after a few adjustments to the point where it is very smooth over about 2800 but not as good as an original below that point. Very acceptable though. Doing the exercise again I'd use original type isolastics with the Mick Hemmings adjuster. This SHOULD be the best solution and the one I will use on future rebuilds.

Grandpaul, how much are the pre mk111 isolastic kits you sell?

$325 to your door anywhere in the continental U.S.

Anywhere is the same plus my cost of additional postage.

they are as plug and play as you can get. Instructions included with new PTFE washers & rubber booties. If you don't use the booties, sell 'em on e-bay.

GP - Can you give us more info on these iso kits you sell? Do you have pix? I'm assuming from the price this is for both front and back. Are they similar to Mick Hemmings type where the main bolt does not have to be loosened? What makes them "the ultimate"?

RGM sell complete MK3 type kits front and rear for about 60 pounds each.

Mk3 kits see: http://www.andover-norton.co.uk/SI%20Service%20Kits.htm
Joe

Check out any of the project threads I've got on this forum and you'll see pix of the complete front and rear kits; they are all I use.

If they were installed properly, you don't need to loosen the bolts again unless you are working on whatever other subsystem that needs flexibility for manipulation. You just measure and adjust as appropriate due to wear of the PTFE washers.

Oh, yes, If you suffer a significant chassis jolt (more than a curb smack or pothole) you might want to loosen the main bolts and check for any noticeable tweaking that may have occured.