I decided that since I had the bike apart, I would convert to the new Vernier Iso’s which do not require modification of the front mount. I got them from Commando Specialties. I used the Mike Taglieri’ method as reprinted by Trinorman. This is the one where you do not have to pull the primary or the engine.
With a 1 car garage, and no money, I used an old hoist and built my own bench which is attached to the side of the garage with old hinges. Cheap, and I can swing the bike 360 too.
Parts came and the very first instruction (there are only three) states to shorten the cradle. Phone call to PA and they state: “old instructions, don’t worry” I always worry. Took out the old front Iso (easy), and rebuilt it. It did not fit. Measured frame and the new iso and reassembled old iso and measured it. New one is 3/32” too wide, completely adjusted closed. Called PA. “It should fit, but it’s a British bike” I said that the old ones had fit, and the frame is in spec. In fairness, Commando Specialties was willing to take it back, or alter my mount.
This is what I think is wrong. The old and new mount collars are the same thickness, but the old ones have a raised section to hold the PTFE washer. That is the difference. Subtract the thickness of the washers and it would have cleared. In the picture, The new Mount Collar is on the left, next is the old one. On the right you can see how the washers fit. Notice the overlap of the washers because of the difference in thickness of the collars.
I did not alter the front mount. I altered the frame by placing a wedge of wood in and driving it upward. You would not think that 3/32” is that much, but it took a while and it is still a tight fit. I have decided to keep the block in, do you think I should paint it black or stain it?
Next, the back Iso. It came apart as easily as the front. But, I could not get the new one-piece unit in. I had only gotten the tube 80% clear of the frame. Searched and found Cdafirefighter’s post and highdesert’s reply. Boy did they help, but I still had to pull the front Iso mount to clear. I used a wood block and when I lowered the bike, the motor slide smoothly forward. Getting it back was not so easy. I worked alone, and I don’t like to work on the bike with it on the floor (knees). Next time I will, and use a floor jack under the motor.
I got everything to work, but my frame is original with enough battle scars to qualify for 3 – 4 purple hearts and the silver star. If I had one of the gorgeous bikes I see on this forum, the block would have ruined the finish. Also, since I had to pull the front Iso, and I did not use a floor jack, the motor slide around on the frame.
Well, that’s my story and I’m sticking to it. I hope this may help others. Be sure and read the several posts on this, and USE a safety line to a beam at all times.
With a 1 car garage, and no money, I used an old hoist and built my own bench which is attached to the side of the garage with old hinges. Cheap, and I can swing the bike 360 too.
Parts came and the very first instruction (there are only three) states to shorten the cradle. Phone call to PA and they state: “old instructions, don’t worry” I always worry. Took out the old front Iso (easy), and rebuilt it. It did not fit. Measured frame and the new iso and reassembled old iso and measured it. New one is 3/32” too wide, completely adjusted closed. Called PA. “It should fit, but it’s a British bike” I said that the old ones had fit, and the frame is in spec. In fairness, Commando Specialties was willing to take it back, or alter my mount.
This is what I think is wrong. The old and new mount collars are the same thickness, but the old ones have a raised section to hold the PTFE washer. That is the difference. Subtract the thickness of the washers and it would have cleared. In the picture, The new Mount Collar is on the left, next is the old one. On the right you can see how the washers fit. Notice the overlap of the washers because of the difference in thickness of the collars.
I did not alter the front mount. I altered the frame by placing a wedge of wood in and driving it upward. You would not think that 3/32” is that much, but it took a while and it is still a tight fit. I have decided to keep the block in, do you think I should paint it black or stain it?
Next, the back Iso. It came apart as easily as the front. But, I could not get the new one-piece unit in. I had only gotten the tube 80% clear of the frame. Searched and found Cdafirefighter’s post and highdesert’s reply. Boy did they help, but I still had to pull the front Iso mount to clear. I used a wood block and when I lowered the bike, the motor slide smoothly forward. Getting it back was not so easy. I worked alone, and I don’t like to work on the bike with it on the floor (knees). Next time I will, and use a floor jack under the motor.
I got everything to work, but my frame is original with enough battle scars to qualify for 3 – 4 purple hearts and the silver star. If I had one of the gorgeous bikes I see on this forum, the block would have ruined the finish. Also, since I had to pull the front Iso, and I did not use a floor jack, the motor slide around on the frame.
Well, that’s my story and I’m sticking to it. I hope this may help others. Be sure and read the several posts on this, and USE a safety line to a beam at all times.
