Is there somewhere that I can send a Boyer for a test?

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jimbo

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Is there somewhere that I can send a Boyer black box to see if its any good?
 
Always remembering that the wires to the pickups of older Boyers are the usual (& well known) problem.

If you can wiggle them, and suddenly get a spark when the wire makes contact (inside the insulation)
then you know where the problem is.
 
Heres the thing. I rewired a 73 850 that had a wire fire. After which I checked the Boyer that came with it. The Boyer checked out OK with good spark. Several times. So I buttoned everything up , and for New Years eve I thought I'd get it started. The ignition failed in the meantime! No sparkie. Rechecked everything, connections ,coil ohms, spark plugs,bat voltage. Jumped the harness. Oh well. Guess I'll order some new stuff.2017 yeppie!
 
jimbo said:
The ignition failed in the meantime!

So, did you wiggle the wires to the pickups ?
Or just replace them.

You'd only be the millionth boyer owner to find this out.
But maybe we exaggerate, a bit...
 
Rohan said:
jimbo said:
The ignition failed in the meantime!

So, did you wiggle the wires to the pickups ?
Or just replace them.

You'd only be the millionth boyer owner to find this out.
But maybe we exaggerate, a bit...
jumped them to the black box to eliminate any broken wires possibilities after the non start. I do not know why the ignition failed just sitting there. ( I did have a few spark moments that might have killed a weakened box. :shock: )
 
The first and easiest test is: Disconnect the wires to the pickups. Turn the ignition on and off. You should get a spark.
 
On the pickup plate there is a ty-wrap that secures the pick-up wires to the Fiberglas plate. This is where the wires break.

Also check for broken solder connections on the backside of the pick up plate.

Because of this weakness, my next electronic ignition won't be a Boyer.
 
pommie john said:
The first and easiest test is: Disconnect the wires to the pickups. Turn the ignition on and off. You should get a spark.
nope, no spark :(
 
jimbo said:
pommie john said:
The first and easiest test is: Disconnect the wires to the pickups. Turn the ignition on and off. You should get a spark.
nope, no spark :(
Update;
I did the "turn the ignition on and touch the wires together test",yesterday that was a negative.Today I just went ahead and tried "Disconnect the wires to the pickups. Turn the ignition on and off" test. , I now have spark! :D woo hoo! So it might be the leads to the timing cover. I will redo those. I have an oil leak also, I should take off the cover and address that too. A Little Project Creep :shock:
 
update on the update, the bike is running! Sounds good I might add! Changed out the points lead, The black box was fine.
[video]http://vid51.photobucket.com/albums/f382/VR1250/Candy%20Apple%20Green%20Norton/MOV06165_zpsm261ix5x.mp4[/video]
 
If you are in the States you can send it to me at Rocky Point Cycle (http://www.rockypointcycle.com) and I'll get it tested within a week or less and be in a position to supply you with replacement parts, if necessary, in a turn around of 10 days or less.

Bill.
 
RoadScholar said:
If you are in the States you can send it to me at Rocky Point Cycle (http://www.rockypointcycle.com) and I'll get it tested within a week or less and be in a position to supply you with replacement parts, if necessary, in a turn around of 10 days or less.

Bill.
Thanks, that's good to know
 
jimbo said:
update on the update, the bike is running! Sounds good I might add! Changed out the points lead, The black box was fine.
[video]http://vid51.photobucket.com/albums/f382/VR1250/Candy%20Apple%20Green%20Norton/MOV06165_zpsm261ix5x.mp4[/video]


Great result ! Sounds good.
 
RoadScholar said:
If you are in the States you can send it to me at Rocky Point Cycle (http://www.rockypointcycle.com) and I'll get it tested within a week or less and be in a position to supply you with replacement parts, if necessary, in a turn around of 10 days or less.

Bill.
went to start it today , and it was dead again, did a trouble shoot, narrowed it down to the black box, changed it out and all is good. Is there hope for the bad one or should I just throw it away?
 
Did you ever troubleshoot the power wiring going to the black box - bypassing it etc ?
Could be you just had a bad connection or 3 in there, and disturbing/replacing anything makes it all good again ?

Even ignition switches can have a bad day, once they get a few miles under their belt.
Especially if you ride with a heavy set of keys dangling from them...?
 
Rohan said:
Did you ever troubleshoot the power wiring going to the black box - bypassing it etc ?
Could be you just had a bad connection or 3 in there, and disturbing/replacing anything makes it all good again ?

Even ignition switches can have a bad day, once they get a few miles under their belt.
Especially if you ride with a heavy set of keys dangling from them...?


tried everything and narrowed it down to the black box per Boyer trouble shoot guides and the help here. What through me off is the intermittent tendency. Maybe a internal loose/broken connection?

Proof is in the pudding :shock: ,(changing out the black box)
 
The Black Box is encapsulated in resin , it is not serviceable. On that note it seems the trigger diode is the item to go at fault. Substitution with a new ( or known reliable) unit is a good plan to trace the issue. Often problems like this are caused by a corroded ground . Boyers need a good ground. And a good battery. Good luck. :) Oh yes , Mike at Walridge Motors has a test bench for Boyers at your service. :wink:
 
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