Interstate tank leaking
- Thread starter Jerry Doe
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lazyeye6
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That is true.....But sensitivity toward and knowledge of a Norton Interstate tank is......helpful.
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The Interstate tanks seems to have a tendency to leaking at the studs.
NORTSTER1974
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How to DIY
robs ss
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Yes - another case of Norton not doing a proper job.
The front threaded bossed were good for 11 litre tanks so, will they be good for a tank more than twice the weight?
Another example of inadequate engineering.
baz
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I think with some foam rubber along the top tube to give the tank some supportYes - another case of Norton not doing a proper job.
The front threaded bossed were good for 11 litre tanks so, will they be good for a tank more than twice the weight?
Another example of inadequate engineering.
And correctly shimmed front mounts they'd be fine
And from what I have seen some owners like to really crank down on those studs
But yes not the best design
But 50 yes on a lot can happen
Fast Eddie
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I am about to convert to interstate after being a roadster guy for ever.
My current intent is to use rubber bobbins as mentioned by dobba (as I have on the roadster) and was considering pipe lagging or similar along the spine to add support / reduce vibration and resonance.
I did have had plate added to reinforce mine around the mounting points, as the metal there seemed unreasonably thin to me.
I am mindful of the fact that a full interstate tank is a rather different animal to a roadster !
Any experienced input greatly received.
My current intent is to use rubber bobbins as mentioned by dobba (as I have on the roadster) and was considering pipe lagging or similar along the spine to add support / reduce vibration and resonance.
I did have had plate added to reinforce mine around the mounting points, as the metal there seemed unreasonably thin to me.
I am mindful of the fact that a full interstate tank is a rather different animal to a roadster !
Any experienced input greatly received.
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acadian
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2 cents, I've used threaded vibration mounts on my alloy commando and A65 tanks and they've worked quite well, for the tank rubbers on the frame I figure out the spacing needed to sit the tank so there's not excess stress on the threaded mounts, then cut them out of a 2.5" thick recycled rubber pad on the bandsaw (the pad is used for trailer parking)
robs ss
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Good idea - but I think the damaging stress is fore-and-aft rather than vertical.
The foam rubber all along the spine-tube will, I believe, minimise the tank's movement.
I also now ensure I don't use my knees on the tank - again to stop forcing it forward.
I am yet to find someone to repair my damaged tank - has really great paintwork.
I had to repair a leaking oil tank on a 1956 ES2, (leak behind the bottom mounting bracket) Had to grind off the bracket welds, pressure test, fill with water and then weld repair, pressure test again and then weld the bracket back on, pressure test again and when successful clean and paint over the weld affected area. Luckily this was all underneath, so out of sight as the paint job was excellent and i really didn't want to damage it. Took two days to complete. The petrol tank will have the extra work of washing out first and the Interstate tank is a hand full when full of water.
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I use the rubber bobbins too since my Interstate sprung a leak at a front stud, I had it repaired by welding and the other non leaking side done too. It worked for the few more years I had it on before I went to Roadster, then range anxiety got to me and I went Interpol but still with the bobbins.
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Use a bicycle pump to pressurise the tank and only just enough air to find the leak, It is not a pressure vessel, using an airline risks deforming the tank. It will be a job to hold the air filled tank under water in a big enough container. Protect your paint job with a tank cover when doing this.
My Interstate tank is the original. The bike is coming up on 50,000 miles and 50 years old.
It uses the stock mounting setup and it's fine, no leaks ever, to date.
Glen
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