Inlet Rocker Stud Removal

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swooshdave

swooshdave

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Inlet Rocker Stud Removal


Are there any tricks to getting the inlet rocker cover stud out? I tried my stud tool but it's too big and hits the rockers (I suppose I could wait until I pull the rockers).
 
Yeah, but I can't find the nuts. The barrel nut worked but it's a tall one. I can't find two normal sized ones on the bike.
 
5/16" x 26 Wilco, Parkrose Hardware, Ace should have them. George Kraus will certainly have them.
 
I used two from the exhaust mounting. The nuts that attach the rubber bobbins.
 
This is why I keep all of my cast off Norton nuts n bolts in an old Folgers coffee can.

That and I live in a metric country now.
 
On that I put it in finger tight and after the nut and cover are off, the stud spins out by hand to clear the way for valve adjustments etc.
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Blue750 said:
I used two from the exhaust mounting. The nuts that attach the rubber bobbins.
Click to expand...
The exhaust bobbins are usually 5/16-24 not 26cei.
Since many commando owners are rookies, they are initially unaware that the commando is a hybrid of hardware.
Commando are primarily unified hardware. Only the engine and transmission are left with a bit of original british hardware.
Two cei nuts from the gearbox could be borrowed for stud removal duty and not butcher the cei/bsf intake stud.
Any commando tech would have a pair of cei nuts for 1/4-5/16-3/8 in their toolbox.
 
Vice grips and a hammer. If it doesn't come out right away, hit it harder.
 
dynodave said:
The exhaust bobbins are usually 5/16-24 not 26cei.
Since many commando owners are rookies, they are initially unaware that the commando is a hybrid of hardware.
Commando are primarily unified hardware. Only the engine and transmission are left with a bit of original british hardware.
Two cei nuts from the gearbox could be borrowed for stud removal duty and not butcher the cei/bsf intake stud.
Any commando tech would have a pair of cei nuts for 1/4-5/16-3/8 in their toolbox.
Click to expand...

And a thread gage!
 
Dyno is right. Use the two of the seven nuts that hold the gearbox inner cover to the shell. Yes the outside nuts are 1/4 whtworth and you will need an open ended. Two wrenches. you will need to tighten them up fairly tight together and you don't want to bugger up the nut by rounding off the corners with an improper sized wrench.o_O how many times have I seen that happen.:eek: The vicegrip and a hammer is nothing short of a hack job. IMHO.
Cheers,
Thomas
 
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Also, get some propane heat into the stud and head area in case DPO used Locktite.
 
CanukNortonNut said:
Dyno is right. Use the two of the seven nuts that hold the gearbox inner cover to the shell. Yes the outside nuts are 1/4 whtworth and you will need an open ended. Two wrenches. you will need to tighten them up fairly tight together and you don't want to bugger up the nut by rounding off the corners with an improper sized wrench.o_O how many times have I seen that happen.:eek: The vicegrip and a hammer is nothing short of a hack job. IMHO.
Cheers,
Thomas
Click to expand...

That works great if you have an extra gearbox laying around.

I'm pretty sure the vicegrip and hammer was a joke. I hope it was. :eek:
 
Agree that heat is most helpful. Ally head will swell quickly compared to the steel stud.
 
swooshdave said:
That works great if you have an extra gearbox laying around.
Click to expand...

??
Are you saying you don't want to undo the two outer cover nuts on your GB to perform the stud removal? Won't do any harm to the GB or its gasket sealing.
 
Most shops that work on bikes will have a couple or they’ll let you dig around in castoff container.

Remember to put a washer between them before you tighten them against each other.
 
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