Improving Fred's Powdercoating instructions

In anticipation of p/c, I was going over Fred's instructions. Re: the rear frame lugs, it appears to me that the only thing that needs masking is the frame lug iso mount and that should be masked on the inside of the frame with the diameter of the rear engine mounting stud collar, which is right at 1.00" dia. The outside of the frame lug contacts the battery tray and the battery tray contacts the 1"spacer ". Should I mask the outside frame lug for the battery tray and the battery tray on both sides for the frame lug and the 1" spacer? Does anyone see any need to mask the 4 holes for the 3/8" bolts that attach the support plates?



The front is a little different. The inside of the frame lugs are pressing on the front engine mounting stud collar, which is a 1.00" dia. The outside of the front frame lug is pressing on the 00-0008 1/2" flat washer, which is right at .0875" or a 00-0008 washer.



I was going to mask the cradle mostly with tape and the few engine mounting holes with nuts and washers.

At least the new isos fit right, and the spacing between the frame lugs is within spec, this is a good sign.

Ideas please.

Dave
69S

Will the tape go to crap during the baking process?

There is special tape for the process.

Dave

DogT said:

In anticipation of p/c, I was going over Fred's instructions. Re: the rear frame lugs, it appears to me that the only thing that needs masking is the frame lug iso mount and that should be masked on the inside of the frame with the diameter of the rear engine mounting stud collar, which is right at 1.00" dia. The outside of the frame lug contacts the battery tray and the battery tray contacts the 1"spacer ". Should I mask the outside frame lug for the battery tray and the battery tray on both sides for the frame lug and the 1" spacer? Does anyone see any need to mask the 4 holes for the 3/8" bolts that attach the support plates?

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My guess (I haven't coated my frame yet) is that any holes you don't mask have the chance of needed cleaned up afterwards. Best way to tell is see how much clearance the bolts have now. If it's not a lot then you run the chance of having to fix it later.

on the z plates, I think you need to make sure you get a ground through to the frame and ultimately to the battery for the zener, assuming you still use it. At any rate, that is the main concern, making sure you have a ground path to everything you need. And also the fact that anything that requires TQ to spec or load bearing can not have PC between the surfaces or those fasteners will loosen up. So with that in mind, that should open up a lot more areas that likely should be protected I'd think. Head steady mounting areas, swing arm areas.

lrutt said:

on the z plates, I think you need to make sure you get a ground through to the frame and ultimately to the battery for the zener,

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There would normally be a harness ground wire for the zener/Z-plate (or both zeners & plates = 850 MkIII)

The powder coating can cause space between the engine plates and cases and this can lead to snapped bolts. Or at the very least they can come loose, Be sure to mask off all mounting points for the cases and trans.

My main issue was about the torqued nuts/bolts. According to Fred's plan, he doesn't mention anything about the battery box holder where it slides under the z-plate spacers and the frame and the central 1/2" iso bolt goes through there. I would assume that the forked part of the box would want to be masked off in that area so there is no p/c between the frame iso lugs and the iso bolt.

Seems to me that there used to be a ground wire that was under the zener that went to one of the engine bolts, so I was not concerned about grounding the Z-plates too much.

The engine cradle seems to be a bit different than Fred's too (MKIII?), I have a long slotted area for the top of the gearbox adjuster. I was going to mask off all the gearbox mounting points, swingarm area and any engine mounting points on it too.

Should I paint all the masked areas with enamel before I start assembly or paint after assembly?

Dave
69S

DogT said:

Should I paint all the masked areas with enamel before I start assembly or paint after assembly?

Dave
69S

Click to expand...

Paint before assembly.