Powdercoating

maximini · Dec 10, 2010

I just stripped down an original '68 fastback for restoration. I have always used a baked enamel on the frame and assorted parts, but have not been completely satisfied with the longevity as it chips too easily.

I am going to prepare the frame, swinging arm, carrier and battery tray for powdercoating (using Old Brits guide) but I was curious as to how many of the other parts the guys on the forum powdercoat. Also, do you use a gloss black (my powdercoater says he also has a 85% and 90% black powdercoat).

I want the bike to look pretty original. Any input would be appreciated.

grandpaul · Dec 10, 2010

I use Bengal high gloss Black.

frame, swingarm, tranny cradle, front fener stays
battery tray, tail light backplate, brake backplate
front engine mount, engine top steady mount body
coil mount, kickstand(s), rear fender support, oil tank
rear brake drum/sprocket needs lots of care in masking.

Silver: fork yokes

comnoz · Dec 10, 2010

I powdercoat everything except the frame. Powdercoat chips too, a little tougher but when it does it is tough to fix. I use good epoxy primer in a thin coat under the topcoat. The primer is the key to chip resistance. Then if I move a bracket or get a scratch an airbrush make it look like new again. Jim

rvich · Dec 10, 2010

comnoz said:
I powdercoat everything except the frame. Powdercoat chips too, a little tougher but when it does it is tough to fix. I use good epoxy primer in a thin coat under the topcoat. The primer is the key to chip resistance. Then if I move a bracket or get a scratch an airbrush make it look like new again. Jim

Are you using enamel for paint or urethane? Or maybe something else?

Russ

comnoz · Dec 10, 2010

Polyurethane with hardener. Jim

rvich · Dec 10, 2010

comnoz said:
Polyurethane with hardener. Jim

I have used two part poly's on my boat and they are absolutely amazing paint if you get the prep work down. Do you do your own tanks as well? Sorry for the hijack effort, but it sort of follows the thread!

Coco · Dec 10, 2010

PC on the frame is a pain in the ass. I'd go paint over powder anyday now. Next custom build will have no PC parts except for brackets ect. Frame will be paint or enamel.

comnoz · Dec 10, 2010

Yes, I do all my own paintwork. It may not be as perfect as some but when it isn't I know who to blame. I don't have a paintbooth. I just block off an area in the corner of the shop with tarps and I have an airline respirator and some good lights . Jim

cmessenk · Dec 10, 2010

grandpaul said:
Silver: fork yokes

I've never done any powdercoating, but the silver powdercoating on the fork yokes (triple-trees) can yellow with prolonged exposure to sunlight. GP, Mike Carter told me he has a process and/or powdercoat type that isn't affected by UV exposure.

grandpaul · Dec 10, 2010

cmessenk said:
I've never done any powdercoating, but the silver powdercoating on the fork yokes (triple-trees) can yellow with prolonged exposure to sunlight. GP, Mike Carter told me he has a process and/or powdercoat type that isn't affected by UV exposure.

My powdercoater did up a front fender in that Silver, and bolted it to a post on the West side entrance of his shop, 2 years later, it still looked brand new. Parking a bike out in the sun will wear other stuff out faster than the powdercoat on the yokes.

DogT · Dec 10, 2010

I did the powder coat thing. It was cheaper than good paint. If you do P/C, forget all those nuts bolts and washers like old Britts article. The powder coater will have all sizes of round paste on stickers you can put over the areas where you don't want the P/C. Much easier, my guy let me do it with the help of the painter. Make arrangements beforehand and be clear what you want to do. The stuff is really hard to get off.

I used 'liquid' black on the frame and parts and 'chrome' on the fork trees and front fender bridge.

Dave
69S

grandpaul · Dec 10, 2010

My powdercoater uses high-temp tape that is fantastic for wrapping stud threads and the inner faces of bearing sockets, yoke holes, etc.

Josh Cox · Dec 10, 2010

I restored a bike last year ( 1953 Golden Flash ) and took the advice of all on the BSA website, the advice was do not powder coat, especially the frame, I really really regret not powder coating the lot ( except tank and panels ).

This year I am restoring a 1970 Roadster, have just picked up the powder coating, everything except the tank and panels, I am very very happy with the finished product, went with satin black.

Suggest sending your nuts and bolts off to be re-cadmium coated, well worth the small amount of money ( you'll find an aviation electro-plater that still does CAD ):

maximini · Dec 10, 2010

Looks great Josh!

bwolfie · Dec 10, 2010

I've been doing my own powdercoating for 10 years now. I find like anything it's all in the preparation and execution. I have been using a home electric oven and a harbor freight setup. With very good results. I am going to build a larger oven so I can do frames and wheels. The powder does chip, but you have to work at it. The best part is the lack of chemicals. And cleanup with a vaccume or broom.

rvich · Dec 10, 2010

Josh Cox said:
I restored a bike last year ( 1953 Golden Flash ) and took the advice of all on the BSA website, the advice was do not powder coat, especially the frame, I really really regret not powder coating the lot ( except tank and panels ).

What specifically causes the regret?

Josh Cox · Dec 10, 2010

Many areas where the two pack is peeling off due to the heat from the gear box/exhaust or oil leaking on it.

I defy anyone that states two pack is stronger than powder coat, the two pack has flaked off in a few places, this frame was completely stripped and sand blasted, primed, under coat and two pack black over coat.

A friend who has well over 20 bikes, powder coats everything, including the hub centres, his bike look fantastic.

Many will say you can not strip powder coat, this is not true, this Commando was powder coated, it takes about 3 lots of stripper to do the job ( pressure water blasting in between ), then a light sand blasting.

I have now done both and will be powder coating from this point onwards.

Foxy · Dec 10, 2010

To strip powdercoat, apply M.E.K. (methyl Ketone), softens it and just rubs off without a sticky mess. Ive wound a rag around coated tubing, applied MEK, waited five minutes avoiding the fumes and then rubbed it off.
Foxy

bwolfie · Dec 10, 2010

Ahh M.E.K., a staple of the aviation industry. Good times. I have poured many a gallon of it. Thank goodness for respirators and gloves.

Josh Cox · Dec 10, 2010

Respirators and gloves,,,, Pffft,,,,, pussys,,, how do you get ripped on MEK with a mask on ?

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Powdercoating

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