Ignition questions...

I have two questions to pose to the men who know far more than I about these bikes.
First off, I am in the process of replacing some leaky gaskets, and am trying to remove the timing cover. I got the small cover, but find that the advance thing attached to the camshaft is blocking the alternator cover. I read that you can screw in a bolt, and tap it off the taper, but before I do that, i want to make sure I have this right, I don't want to risk damaging anything.

The other question I have is the upgrade units such as Boyer. From what I can guess is that this replaces the distributor design for an electronically timed ignition design. Again, I want to make sure I am understanding what I am reading. Anyone have input on how easy this is to install, and how reliable this is? I am going to be running this with a single Mikuni carb setup. I am pretty capable as far as mechanically, and I am pretty good with wiring.

I would be looking at a new Pazon or Tri-Spark or just about anything other than Boyer....Just my humble opinion. :roll:

Do not tap it off with a bolt.They make a small slide hammer that acts as a puller.Also,you will need a seal guide to
re-install the timing cover so as not to damage the seal.These guys on this forum are a great source Ask questions
so you dont screw up things. (like I have done)Get a manual and have fun!
YING

I've tapped it off with a bolt, just don't go whacking on it, small taps and keep hitting it somewhere different. It's a taper fit. You can use tape instead of the seal tool, but be real careful. Do get a manual, I found one on line somewhere. They're around and you'll need one. EI is your choice of expense. I have the surefire Pazon. Reasonable and easy.

Here ya go http://britmoto.com/

Dave
69S

All Nortoneers should have one of these. http://www.oldbritts.com/19_061359.html

You can make an easy slide hammer with a piece of 5/16 threaded rod. Put a nut on the end, a fender washer and a piece of steel of choice with a hole in it to act as a slide.

The threads on the rod will not match perfect to the internal threads on the advnce unit but you will be able to turn it in enought to allow a pop or 2 with the slide to get it off.

The internal thread in the advance unit are only for this purpose and are much harder than the 5/16 rod.

I have used this same threaded rod to pull rocker spindles.

flcmbt
Yes you can tap the bolt that holds the auto advance sideways to remove it if its not too badly stuck. There is a Norton tool (slide hammer #064298) that the manual tells you to use. This also works. You should also get the tapered installation tool 061359 for re-installing the timing cover and protecting that brand new seal you just installed.
If you have a Boyer analogue already then go here: http://www.boyerbransden.com/instructions.html
The Boyer got a bad rap with the mark 3 electric start. Opinions will vary. The Analogue Boyer’s don't like the voltage to go below 12 volts, which causes the advance to go fluky. :? This is usually caused by a poor battery or corroded wiring or something that doesn’t supply the Boyer Box the juice that is required. Here is where the problem arises.
There have been many reports of the wires that lead into the ignition trigger that breaks off due to vibration. Again, there are many threads on this forum for electronic ignitions but make sure you compare apples to oranges…. (Analogue to Digital)...and the difference in price.

I have found that Britmoto site, and have been using it to great effect. I am looking to upgrade the timing to digital, (hey I am young, and more comfortable with the reliability that electronic usually provides without having to fine tune)
I am wondering for those who have installed one, does this eliminate the advance unit that I am pulling out? I am wondering about reinstalling the piece.

flcmbt said:

does this eliminate the advance unit that I am pulling out?

Click to expand...

Yes.

There are two threads sizes/dia. in the trigger rotor hole, one to hold in on and the other to take it off. I'd had rotor taper about rust fused to shaft but always got em free with side ways raps on fairly well threaded in removal bolt. Don't thread in removal bolt/rod very tight or can't remove bolt when just diddling the rotor position to dial in initial timing to start.

The electronic brain boxes handle the coil charging/dwell and the spark retard/adv, so mechanical automatic adv. unit is useless clutter that is sent to hobot collection of them. Toss out the balliast resister and the points condensors my way too.

Pazion SureFire seems most bang for the bux in ordinary Cdo's. For hi end optical triggered and digital programmed selectable ignition curves pay 3x's more for a PowerArch direct from company or must settle for the one curve fits all from Old Brits at about 2x's Pazion cost. Beaware that the various electro trigger plates don't aways fit right so can make magnets miss coils trigger posts enough not to fire on time or at all but EveryThing in extensive test list checks out perfectly, ugh.

hobot said:

so mechanical automatic adv. unit is useless clutter that is sent to hobot collection of them. Toss out the balliast resister and the points condensors my way too.

Click to expand...

Don't believe him, he's collecting these things because eventually they are going to be expensive as the dickens when the EI systems start failing from the geomagnetic storms this solar cycle. And by then he'll have them all sleeved and set to last forever, for a price of course.

Get your tin foil hats out now!!

Dave
69S