Ignition light
- Thread starter Nortoncommandoneil
- Start date
- Status
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2009
- Messages
- 2,840
- Joined
- Jun 25, 2004
- Messages
- 929
LOL - sorry, I read light bulb - Duh... I will check
maylar
VIP MEMBER
- Joined
- May 13, 2007
- Messages
- 4,213
No, he means a 12 volt car headlamp. Low beam is usually about 50 watts, high beam about 60. I keep one in my shop just to have a DC load when I need one.
- Joined
- Jun 25, 2004
- Messages
- 929
Tested it, yes it does, full brightness at about 3000 RPM. I take it that means I am getting 60 watts at 3000 RPM?
Last edited:
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2009
- Messages
- 2,840
Maylar’s suggestion is right.
What you now know is that the alternator produces power. Should be plenty power to charge the battery on a bike with an LED headlight.
What you now know is that the alternator produces power. Should be plenty power to charge the battery on a bike with an LED headlight.
- Joined
- Jun 25, 2004
- Messages
- 929
Done - lights up the bulb about the same at 3000 rpm. Stuck a multimeter on it at the same time - for what it is worth. Got a reading of about 10 volts.
- Joined
- Jun 25, 2004
- Messages
- 929
I would have expected that the voltage out of the regulator would have been a bit higher with nothing connected to it other than the 60 watt light, wouldn't you? Could it be that the regulator is cutting in prematurely?
BTW - the battery is brand new and has no trouble starting the bike (when properly charged), holds a charge for several days without decaying (bike doesn't sit much this time of year).
maylar
VIP MEMBER
- Joined
- May 13, 2007
- Messages
- 4,213
Yeah I missed the 10 volt part. That does seem low. Did you measure the AC voltage when you tested that?
- Joined
- Jun 25, 2004
- Messages
- 929
Yes, I did check the AC voltage, seems to check out at 22-24 volts at about 3000 RPM, per Alton's guidelines.
I compared my Amazon regulator to the Sparx 3 phase regulator that I removed, by measuring the DC voltage at the regulator connections while connected. The Amazon one looks to cut out 0.75 - 1.00 volts earlier than the Sparx regulator, so I have put the Sparx unit back in for now, with one AC lead isolated, until I get the mofset regulator.
Fingers crossed for better performance....
I compared my Amazon regulator to the Sparx 3 phase regulator that I removed, by measuring the DC voltage at the regulator connections while connected. The Amazon one looks to cut out 0.75 - 1.00 volts earlier than the Sparx regulator, so I have put the Sparx unit back in for now, with one AC lead isolated, until I get the mofset regulator.
Fingers crossed for better performance....
- Joined
- Jun 25, 2004
- Messages
- 929
I did a quick power budget analysis - I should only be using about 75 watts or less running down the road, maybe 100 watts with the signals on.
- Joined
- Jun 25, 2004
- Messages
- 929
Remember when I said the battery is new? Well, my one month old AGM battery shorted out and died last night... Noticed it first as a miss, then I noticed the voltage taking a nose dive at the same time, and my BSM was intermittently going red, all at the same time the intermittent miss was occurring. I was only about a mile from my parents place, on a way to meet up with some buddies, so I diverted - good thing I did. After a bit of trouble shooting, the charging system was ruled out, and the battery stopped starting the bike, although it would show 13.2 volts with no load on it. Eventually, it stopped doing that as well....
Dad offered me the battery out of his 850, and I continued on my way. So... battery shopping today... LOL!
Dad offered me the battery out of his 850, and I continued on my way. So... battery shopping today... LOL!
- Joined
- Jun 25, 2004
- Messages
- 929
The new battery is fitted. I also decided to go back to a rectifier and Zener setup. Simplicity, and easy on the stator. I verified that the Zener was cutting in at over 14 volts.
Went for a 300 mile ride on Sunday. When I left, my voltmeter was reading slightly over 13 volts at speed, but over to course of the day, it continuously lost charge until it was struggling to put up 12 volts at 4000 RPM. Battery voltage was 11.4 at idle. All readings are with the headlight on.
I did notice that the charging system would catch up if I switched from the headlight to the pilot light, although very slowly. I verified that the draw from the LED headlight bulb is 2.2 amps max, less than half of that of a halogen bulb.
I have verified the current draw of my bike, alternator disconnected. At a 1000-1500 RPM idle, it draws about 4.5-4.7 amps with the headlight on and 2.6 amps with all lamps off. There is no draw on the battery with the key off. So my maximum power requirement to keep up with the loads at 13 volts plus is about 61 watts.
I am beginning to wonder if I either have weak rotor magnets in my alternator, or I have a lot of resistance across my rectifier. I have tried 3 different rectifier/regulator set ups, and all have shown the same results.
According to Alton's specs, the alternator should be capable of putting out 90 watts at "cruising speed". I consider cruising speed to be between 3500-4000 RPM, which means that my charging system should be able to keep up, as that is where I spend most of my time while riding.
Thoughts??
Went for a 300 mile ride on Sunday. When I left, my voltmeter was reading slightly over 13 volts at speed, but over to course of the day, it continuously lost charge until it was struggling to put up 12 volts at 4000 RPM. Battery voltage was 11.4 at idle. All readings are with the headlight on.
I did notice that the charging system would catch up if I switched from the headlight to the pilot light, although very slowly. I verified that the draw from the LED headlight bulb is 2.2 amps max, less than half of that of a halogen bulb.
I have verified the current draw of my bike, alternator disconnected. At a 1000-1500 RPM idle, it draws about 4.5-4.7 amps with the headlight on and 2.6 amps with all lamps off. There is no draw on the battery with the key off. So my maximum power requirement to keep up with the loads at 13 volts plus is about 61 watts.
I am beginning to wonder if I either have weak rotor magnets in my alternator, or I have a lot of resistance across my rectifier. I have tried 3 different rectifier/regulator set ups, and all have shown the same results.
According to Alton's specs, the alternator should be capable of putting out 90 watts at "cruising speed". I consider cruising speed to be between 3500-4000 RPM, which means that my charging system should be able to keep up, as that is where I spend most of my time while riding.
Thoughts??
- Joined
- May 7, 2005
- Messages
- 6,819
You have tried 3 regulators, you know the zener cuts in at 14V so does sound like the alternator is prime suspect. You could try the 35W/45W bulb test on each leg to see if the alternator at 3000 rpm can get the bulb bright on AC, or you may prefer to ask Alton what their raw output test should be.
- Joined
- Jun 25, 2004
- Messages
- 929
I am using one of these:
Amazon product ASIN B07K8LBZMK
I had to use a small relay to get it the positive switched power it requires, since my bike is still positive earth.
- Status