Idle issues / timing issue ????

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Ok so I have a 1970 750 commando, I have cleaned the carbs perfect, now when I start the bike it fires rite up but the bike will idle at 1500 rpm, when I let it sit the idle will slowly creep down to 1000 then 800 then 0 and the bike stalls ( this takes about 60 seconds or less to play out. This will happen on a cold start or warm start. First I thought it was sticky slides, so I gave the carbs a good cleaning (I'm running the stock amals) but that did not help. Could this be a timing issue ?? This is a new bike that I recently purchased and have not ridden yet so I can not say if it has been timed recently ???? Please help.
 
BTW I am aware that my bike should be idling at 900-1000 rpm. But if I set it to that, I start the bike and the idle is diffent....Most of the time it shoots to 1500 rpm....
 
Air lever ( choke ), do you use it for start ?, if so when do you turn it off ?.

I am no expert, but I'd reckon its a little early to blame to ignition, what ignition are you running ?.

You can skype me if you like, if I can help at all: joshua_cox1@westnet.com
 
If voltage drops when not spinning fast enough to stay ahead of the draw, that can cause a minuter or so idle then just fades to stall, points or electro brain sparkers. Electro brains tend to over advance when starved for volts. Must check that battery and charging volts staying up to snuff during this run to stall interval. Worn slides might add to this with extra rpm rise off base idle.
 
G'day Brad, Have you owned an English bike before. More to the point, are you really familiar with Mk 1 Amal carbs.
If you are a reasonably competent mechanic with mild experience on Japanese bikes, this won't help you now. Sorry.
Lesson # 1.. Amal Mk 1 carbs were made of a substance (pot metal) that in most cases, wears very quickly.
Hence the Slide (throttle valve) can become very loose in its fit to the body. Allowing extra air into the throat,
resulting in tuning problems.
Lesson # 2.. Read the threads on cleaning Amal carbs. In particular, the Idle jet passage, and, Ethanol fuel problems.
OK, Lets now assume that you've read these and the carbs ARE clean. And the Slides are tight, and the "O" rings on
the adjustment screws are in good condition.
As Josh asked.. Do you have Air slides (choke slides) still fitted to your carbs. If so do you use them.
It sounds as though your carbs are lean at idle. That is, it runs OK untill it uses up the fuel created by tickling the carbs.
An easy test is to remove the air filter, start the bike, and hold two fingers over the mouth of the carbies, this will "choke" them.
OR.. leave the Air slides partially closed.
OR.. Start the bike, it's now idling at 1500, when it starts to run down, press the ticklers. (add some fuel).
If it helps then you know you are lean. This could be caused by a partially blocked idle circuit. And or, the wrong Mixture screw setting.
If the bike won't start at all, or starts but won't rev as it usually does with out the extra choke, then you are probably rich.
Check the slides for excessive wear, and check the four O rings on the Idle and Mixture screws.
Also check the eight mounting bolts on manifold and carbs. Not too tight, as they can distort and give an air leak.
Lesson # 3.. It might be electrical.
Have fun.
 
One possibility could be an air leak where the manifold meets the head or where the carb. meets the manifold. Make sure that the carb. mounting flange area is flat, as this can be the cause of an air leak. This area is subject to warpage usually due to over tightening of the carb. nuts. Also make sure that the O-ring here is good.

Another issue that could complicate diagnosing this issue (if you are using breaker point ignition) would be the Auto advance unit not returning to full retard right away after rev up.

Mike Wolf
 
Thanks everyone, i will look into all of these possabilities. Ok here's on thing that could be causing this, I will test this theory Tom.. I am not using the rubber pieces that connect the carb to the air filter. I have them removed so I can feel the slides to see if they in sync with one another when I adjust the carb..would that create the issues that I have been having ?????
 
There are a few things I'd do if I just got a Commando, whether it ran great or not.

1. check the flow at the petcocks
2. check the vent in the gas cap
3. rebuild the Amals, paying special attention to the pilot circuit, new float valves, and the float settings. New manifold gaskets and o-rings.
4. strobe the timing
5. check the voltage at the battery and at the ignition
6. replace the plugs, wires and caps

There are a lot more. It wouldn't be a bad idea for a thread, the things one would do when getting a new Commando. Excluding gadgets and farkles.
BTW, how long do you have to wait before you can restart the bike? Have you ridden the bike to check what happens at anything over idle?

http://www.jba.bc.ca/Bushmans%20Carb%20Tuning.html
 
Trixie Combat is very annoying d/t slow or no return to idle, though stays at idle if I drag engine down with brakes. I mostly suspect worn fluted carb slides so wonder if anyone has tried heavy grease on slides to see if that tames idle until grease washes out? I will soon and get back if is tells us anything diagnostic.
 
amen on the plugs, wires and caps...replaced all mine recently and it made a definite improvement in the idle stability, already had the carbs dialed in. FWIW bought a MSD universal Street Fire 8 cyl set for about $40 , especially like this set because it comes with a clever stripper/crimper tool for your vice so the crimps are right

Idle issues / timing issue ????


Idle issues / timing issue ????
 
Annal vintage racers stored their HT leads in freezer packed in dry rice for just such a bit more spunk. Inspection in dark is always worth checking now and then with poking, pushing pulling on various wires to see what leaks out where now and then.
 
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