I need a new battery

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Dec 3, 2011
Messages
37
Country flag
A per other my post re a new rear tyre, I also need a battery, I seem to replace it once a year and I'm getting a bit frustrated by this. I've always fitted ordinary lead acid batteries and when riding the ammeter always shows a positive charge charge (but not a ridiculously so). The latest battery I fitted was an eBay cheap job and it is now only showing 12.74 volts (perilously close to the point where the Boyer unit goes berserk) after a mere 4.5 months. I've been riding the bike a bit more regularly and have cured myself of leaving the lights on when I stop at the pub ha ha so that isn't what's killing them.

What do you chaps use/recommend, are these gel batteries better?

Again, thanks in advance.
 
I got one of these Motobatt items back in April, so far so good, it's sealed so no maintenance, no breather hose or leaks; and four terminals, which I've found handy ... That was the right battery for me, but they come in different sizes. Hope that helps, but I'd be just as interested to hear anyone else's experience with the same thing.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280984121917
 
Assuming this is not a daily rider then I recommend an Optimate battery tender, it will get the best possible life out of a battery. Even if used once a week it should show a benefit
 
24hr 365 day charging by optimate fries batteries long term in my experience, plug the optimate into a timed socket with a weekly 5 to 6 hour charge will do the job. On my car, which has a always on alarm which drains the battery, I use a solar panel charger to get the same effect but to cover the bigger draw.
 
I'm running a Motobatt MB9U in my 850 Mk2A Commando with Mk3 Boyer/Bransden electronic ignition.
I love these batteries, and have four of them in various machines.
They don't lose their charge like regular lead/acid batteries, even though technically they use lead/acid technology (but in a different way).
However, I still use a Cetek tender on one of these batteries 24/7, and I've never experienced it frying the battery.
(I had the Cetek on an old Yuasa for 7 years with no problems.)
No doubt others will have different recommendations, but they work for me.

I need a new battery
 
At the very least, I'd recommend a sealed unit, forestall the refilling and acidic fumes issues.
My replacement rate has certainly gone down since I made the switch.
 
Nothing wrong with 12.7 resting voltage in a lead acid. That's about where mine sits.
Even ancient Boyer should be ok down to 11.5 or so.
 
Do you have a modern type regulator rectifier unit or are you still on original type separate regulator an zenor diode set up?
 
The best lead acid battery I've ever had was an Odyssey.

I recently sold a Vincent which had a 10 year old Odyssey battery fitted to it that I had NEVER put on a charger of any kind!

They're very expensive though.
 
I got 13 years out of a sealed Odyssey battery on a bike with stock electrical system! Yes, they are expensive, but so is replacing a cheap lead acid battery every couple of years.
 
Odyssey are great batteries.

But for the money Motobatt are also great, but whatever you invest in get an Optimate or similar, or you will be doing it again soon. If nothing else your Boyer will be better behaved.

I have Motobatt on my Rickman race bike, but it only does ignition, so not much load.

I used one on my GSXR 750 SRAD track day bike and my GSXR750F Slabside racer. On the racer I didn't run the alternator and still got a race weekend of starting/running out of it, running in two classes!
 
kommando said:
24hr 365 day charging by optimate fries batteries long term in my experience, plug the optimate into a timed socket with a weekly 5 to 6 hour charge will do the job. On my car, which has a always on alarm which drains the battery, I use a solar panel charger to get the same effect but to cover the bigger draw.

Never had that issue, and I have used an Optimate for over 20 years on my old MG, two batteries on the car in that period! the second is there now and seems OK (famous last words?)

I have had two Optimates quit working in the last year though! mainly ones used on bikes. I bought a CTEK, which also does 6 volt for my Ajay!
 
I would fit a small digital voltmeter in your system to give you an idea of what is going on. I run a sealed Numax 8A/H battery and the boyer power box runs it at about 14.5v on the move. If the battery is sitting at 12.7v when not running that should be good enough. If that voltage is slipping away then you need to investigate a drain in the system. If you do not have an electric start then 8A/H is good enough unless you like to leave the lights on when parked. I also run Oxford heated grips on my Commando and the volts will start to reduce if I have them set on 75% with the lights on and not cruising. (I have a 3 phase alternator)
 
I also agree with Kommando and would run an optimate on a timer switch for a 1 or 2 hour boost a day. I have a deep seated mistrust of leaving electrical things plugged in and switched on for long periods.
 
I beleive the Optimate to be the original and still the best. Never has mine fried a battery. There are plenty of imitations out there and quite possibly they do or can fry stuff. You pays your money n takes your choice.

Odyssey batteries are AGM which has a much smaller self discharge rate. Have had 10 yrs plus from them.
 
gripper said:
I also agree with Kommando and would run an optimate on a timer switch for a 1 or 2 hour boost a day. I have a deep seated mistrust of leaving electrical things plugged in and switched on for long periods.


That would pretty much defeat the purpose and design function of an Optimate. It needs more than 2 hours to go through it's cycles. It is a 'battery maintenance device' and will where necessary 'desulphate' a battery, but not on 2 hours a day.

Run a more basic device on a timer to give your 'boost', but if the Optimate is a potential problem, what about the timer switch itself, which is powered all the time?

https://www.optimate.co.uk/

PS. Do you pull all of the plugs out of the wall at night or leave stuff on standby? What about your fridge and freezer? I have developed a little more trust over the years. But then again, in the days of Lithium Ion batteries, you don't need the mains power connected to have a burn up!
 
Have you checked the charging voltage? Chronically undercharging or overcharging for that matter will shorten a battery's life. Unless the machine is only occasionally used you shouldn't need a battery tender. I like sealed lead acid, a nice compromise between cost and convenience.

Try one of these, they're easy to install and accurate:

http://www.sparkbright.co.uk/sparkright ... onitor.php
 
As Your in the UK, try B.O.M. batteries.
I got an AGM battery for my MK3 from them 3 years ago. Starts my bike everytime, it has to, as i have removed the kickstart. never had the bike on charge and it starts even in subzero temps, it literally has been fit and forget.
I seem to remember i paid £45 for it.
The last battery was destroyed when the power box failed and put AC into the system. electronic ign kaput and the battery when it cooled down looked as if someone had sucked the internals out! Beware Sparks powerboxes, Now using an A reg 3 power box from Al Osbourne.
Regards
peter
 
Valid point Steve about the 2 hour optimate thing, in this case, as you say, a standard battery charger would be more appropriate. The good thing about optimate and other similar devices is the connections to the battery. Two giant croc clips wagging around under your petrol tank is a recipe for disaster. (don't lie, you've all done it)
 
I have been running a Shorai 18 in my Alton E-start 1973 Commando for nearly 5 years now and it's been superb
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top