I hate it when its dry

Yes, I know it's an simple assembly.
With my rear drum torn down and ready for reassembly, I'm unable to find "where to and what to use" lube specs.
Don't want to put it back together dry
thanks

According to the lubrication chart in the Routine Maintenance section of the factory manual, for "Hubs (thus bearings) and Frame Parts" = Lithium grease. Unless you'd prefer to use a specific wheel bearing grease.

https://gmb.net/blog/a-guide-to-wheel-bearing-grease/

Lab.............I should have worded the question differently. Wheel bearing lube is not the question.
I was referring to the rotating & moving components on the brake plate. Thanks again

Mofosheee said:

Lab.............I should have worded the question differently. Wheel bearing lube is not the question.
I was referring to the rotating & moving components on the brake plate.

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In that case, then Lithium high temperature grease (not necessarily Castrol).
Example:

Or, ceramic grease.
Example:

L.A.B. said:

In that case, then Lithium high temperature grease (not necessarily Castrol).
Example:

Castrol Classic Oils Shop — Buy Castrol High Temperature Grease - multipurpose HT grease

Castrol High Temperature Grease - buy online from the Castrol Classic shop - free delivery over £50 - lithium complex grease for classic car wheel bearings

classicoilsshop.co.uk

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I had a look on the Castrol Classic Oils site, & TQF is the ATF fluid I've been looking for for my BSA A65s chaincase. The problem is these days there seems to be so many types of ATF.
I also noticed that they do not recommend XL20/50 for engines using roller mains. Ooh eer!
Thanks for posting.

Spit will work in a pinch.

Mark Savage said:

The reason that monograde oils are preferred with roller bearing mains is because the hold there viscosity better.

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“The hold there viscosity?”

I’ll give that advice the attention it merits, considering that it must have been written by a small child.

Triton Thrasher said:

I’ll give that advice the attention it merits, considering that it must have been written by a small child.

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"sheering effect"!

"The Norton would have used XL30 and sometimes XXL40 in summer / warmer conditions.

The reason that monograde oils are preferred with roller bearing mains is because the hold there viscosity better."

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Nevertheless, I think most owners would consider it a step (or two steps?) backwards to use mineral monograde and 20w/50 multigrade was also recommended at the time.

"Also, a monograde will pull and hold any contamination to the oil into the bottom of the engine therefore alleviating any chance of oilways etc being blocked".

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Not all monogrades are non-detergent (Silkolene Chatsworth and Hardwick for example are detergent mono.) and where there's a spin-on filter I'd think a detergent oil would be preferable.

According to Castrol USA, their recommended oil for a classic Commando is "Castrol POWER1 V-Twin 4T 20W-50.

This is getting dangerously close to becoming an Oil Thread.....

L.A.B. said:

"sheering effect"!

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Popular beat combo, apparently, M’Lud.

I dunno, every time I see his pix never sure it isn't Prince Harry. I mean he is a combo too....

What is the seal which fits over the little spigot in the oil feed between the case and the oute, made from ? I think it is supposed to be a tapered seal - mine is a neoprene O-ring. - Can the additives in the oil stuff it ? I just use a multigrade 50 oil in my 850 motor. I can't remember what the 20 means in 20/50 Multigrade. Four-stroke motors get very hot, especially when run on petrol. I sometimes wonder about oil pressure in my 850 engine. When I had Triumphs, I had so much oil pressure that, even after a long race I could not push the indicator button in. Commandos have gear pumps - not plunger. The Triumph crank used to wear like crazy, until I had the journals hard-chromed. I used MIni-Cooper copper-lead bearings. But it was consisrtently revved to 10,500 RPM. - Commandos don't go over 7000 RPM.
I don't know whether I believe in Castrol R - it turns your bike into an instant shit-heap. My mate used to wash his Manx with methanol after racing. I just did not use it after the first time.
My 850 runs on methanol so is probably a bit cooler - it still clicked as it cooled down after it had been raced

oh no, a main bearing thread!! oh, I forgot it was Halloween yesterday...