Boy, Do I hate powder coat!

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The original posting was about removing powder coat (not resin) on any norton sheet metal not fiberglass tanks.
I still have not changed my mind:

Boy, Do I hate powder coat!
I don't think anyone is ever naive enough to think they will change your mind. :D
 
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Just pulled the tank off my 72 Commando and noticed two of the headsteady bolts were missing. The powder coating under the bolt heads had disintegrated and left them loose. Thankfully the threads weren't buggered. The first and last bike I had powdercoated. Only mistake I made painting the frames on the other bikes was using a light gray primer. Makes chips really standout. Should have used black.
 
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I seriously devalue norton bits that are noted to be "PC" powder coated not...Politically Correct. Sometime devalue to zero!
Try tin knocking or weld & braze and it's quite lousy.
FOR ME ...a bike has to be worth a few thousand less for being PC.

Any experts care to share how to rid these parts of this nasty affliction?

I currently have a project here I was supposed to put together and I think I'd rather send it down the road...

I know, i know, this thread has been sitting without any updates for a while .... So Dave tell us.. how much do you hate powder coating? ;)
 
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I know, i know, this thread has been sitting without any updates for a while .... So Dave tell us.. how much do you hate powder coating? ;)
$27K for my Kabota tractor about 5 years ago.
B2650 Tractor made in Japan, painted.
Front end loader (skid steer mount) Kabota(Georgia) and back hoe attachment Kabota (Georgia) both made in USA, powder coated.
Noticeable is the back hoe frame is fading powder coat , yet the hydraulic cylinders are painted and the color and fade difference is very noticeable.
Fork lift (Titan-Tennesee) skid steer mount, shipped black then I painted in Dupont Industrial Imron, farm fans orange.
Fork lift still brite orange, Tractor still brite, powder coat components is now with a very noticeable UV faded white hue.

Husqvarna orange powder coat lawnmower yard cart. Now about 10 years old. Plastic pealing off in sheets. Simplicity tractors (7) 1964-73 painted orange, color and residual durability better than 40 year newer cart.....
Just sayin....
 
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I have a few things that piss me off too. but it seems some people won't listen to advice, and will continue to do such and such because the internet says its a good thing. even worse them that sell the snake oil

my norton peav - anti drain valves... and the people who think they are the cats meow.

construction product, thin bubble insulation with reflective coatings, claiming the reflective coating provides an "R" value.
 
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My Hinckley Trident is now 29 years & 102,000 miles old & the powder coating on the frame is as good as the day it left the Triumph works. Quality powders & proper surface prep. are the key. On the other hand I have seen TVR car chassis with the PC falling off in just a couple of years, which I know from a bloke who worked there as a welder was down to the chassis coming off the welding fixture, being wiped over with thinners & then coated.
A good paint job is only a good paint job with the same attention to detail. I always prefered stove enamel but it seems almost impossible to find any companies to do it these days.

Martyn.
 
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My Hinckley Trident is now 29 years & 102,000 miles old & the powder coating on the frame is as good as the day it left the Triumph works. Quality powders & proper surface prep. are the key. On the other hand I have seen TVR car chassis with the PC falling off in just a couple of years, which I know from a bloke who worked there as a welder was down to the chassis coming off the welding fixture, being wiped over with thinners & then coated.
A good paint job is only a good paint job with the same attention to detail. I always prefered stove enamel but it seems almost impossible to find any companies to do it these days.

Martyn.
It sits out side in the weather for 29 years in the sun, still looks like it came out of the show room? OK :rolleyes: ?
 
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Well it did spend half of those miles commuting to work, where it sat outside all day rain or shine. The rest of it's life was spent travelling all over Europe during the summer, also outside, which is where most roads tend to be.;) Dave, I get it, you HATE powder coat!
 
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Graffiti remover such as 'Yuk Off' will remove most paints. But it contains glycol ethers which can send you sterile. I'd grit-blast the frame then paint it with black enamel. It the frame cracks, you an scratch a bit off paint off, bronze weld it and touch it up.
Sometimes a trichlorvethylene vapour degreaser will remove paint, especially if the degreaser is poorly maintained. - It becomes acidic. Methylene chloride normally will not.
 
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I would not use 'Yuk Off' even out in the open. If the vapours hit your tail light, they will unlock the plastic and the unit will fall apart. It is really nasty stuff.
 
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At this point I'm not sure what I hate more powder coat or E-10.
Well at least you have to make an affirmative choice to powder coat which I would NEVER do to my Nortons & BSA. I would very strongly avoid buying any powder coated parts/bikes or offering to work on them.
Currently I have no vehicles or equipment meant to run on E-10. Both my Lotus', all my bikes and Outdoor Power Equipment (65 chainsaws, dozen blowers, dozen + weed wackers, 8+ lawn mowers, 5 snow blowers) all have suffered many thousands of $$$ damage from E-10 poisoned by humid ethanol. My non-motor vehicle equipment now gets NO-E gasoline from the airport.
If the US govt allowed/mandated "preservation fuel" to be legal and readily available, I would not hate the corn states lobby so much. It is after all NOT really economical to make ethanol except in bourbon or beer.o_O
 
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My understanding of power coating is that for best practice, to have the part shot blasted first, then cleaned with degreaseing agent then power coating applied. It's preparation is more or less like painting, but I prefer stove enameled any day, it will last a long time if looked after.
 
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My understanding of power coating is that for best practice, to have the part shot blasted first, then cleaned with degreaseing agent then power coating applied. It's preparation is more or less like painting, but I prefer stove enameled any day, it will last a long time if looked after.
FWIW the thread is HOW TO REMOVE PC, not best practice on how to put on....
The inability to fully remove PC, short of burning it off, followed by blasting of one type or another, makes it especially unfriendly for use on Norton light sheetmetal .

I did have to do some straightening on each end of the Kabota skid steer mount cross bar. I had to use a rose bud heating torch tip to heat the tubing. As expected the faded orange plastic turned black and lit on fire with black smoke. Toxic plastic smoke? yummm
I hate PC
 
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Hey... This site is called accessNORTON….. who cares about your lawnmower?? :) :) :)
(Buy a Flymo...….)
 
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Hey... This site is called accessNORTON….. who cares about your lawnmower?? :) :) :)
(Buy a Flymo...….)
And you failed to come up a reasonable way to remove that powder coat (topic of the thread!) that soils some of the Nortons and severly reduces their value and ability to do quality work on them. My $27K kabota is soiled with PC just like the commando aircleaner backing plate and battery tray.

(Buy a Flymo...….) You like them? than you buy one, order through NOC!
 
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