hylomar vs the world

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How easy we are distracted from subject lines & homestead chores. My haying neighbor aged out of baling my 'yard' 2 yr now and ain't found another. My "18 hp Dines is up to mowing chest high pasture even up steeps and had a tow behind so 8 ft swaths but 2 yr use and it threw a rod, deer took out car, water system failed, dogs crashed me, huge dead tree to cleared away from shed, [then repair replace old PU tail gate - removed in tree size limb close call crashing] ongoning saw upkeep etc till I can see an end to hillbilly estate life style. The views look similar to here, yum. i would of course eventually try to jump wall and ride top of it on Peel. May eventually be able to ride a log 20 ft across small creeks, after loose bark knocked off.

Speaking of sealing I've failed half dozen times with the RTV in tubless rims, one spoke leaks in front again and both tires fail to seal around the beads so next attempt will be Hylomar and sealing tape in rim and bead. Rear race tire leaks over whole surface so will try spray on 'seal everything' stuff and see if holds air a few hours to work up feel of next Peel's freedom on it. Too many tire changes on carpet lower my mood again but at least an inside job.
 
I've had a Wellseal failure on my 850 barrel flange due to the PCV connection coming off, so I tried getting some Yamabond.
Nearest stockist - USA!
Checking the internet it seems the consensus is Threebond 1104 is the same product, they supply quite a few OEMs, including Norton.
I've got some on order.
 
This rubbish works well as joint sealant . Not much luck as glue though .

hylomar vs the world


Saw a BSA A65 again , GUD splattered on the Oil Mist now . didnt hold 6 months .

Steam Pipe jointing paper for custom gaskets ( though a decale cutter should hack it these days )
had one real clean BSA centuries ago . Only fuel drop stains on top of the case from the concentrics.
The back road dust otherwise undampened over or under .

The PLIOBOND was the choice of universal motorcycles . and theyre still around . Even sold it AS sealant .
 
I always thought that oil leaks from British bikes were like losing a bit of blood when you cut yourself. It proves you have blood in your body. My Norton is relatively oil tight i.e. it doesn't look like a manx after a race, however when it's in my shed it always has an oil pan under it and the feed pipe is disconnected and plugged. PC valves are good things - helps to suck the gaskets at low revs instead of pressurising the crankcases with all that blow-by.
 
So does anyone have an opinion on yamabond for pushrods tunnels when using copper gasket? Can it handle the heat etc?????
 
Dkt26 said:
So does anyone have an opinion on yamabond for pushrods tunnels when using copper gasket? Can it handle the heat etc?????
OK I'll stick it out there. I think this is the wrong product and type of product for this application.. Head surfaces need to be mated as well as can be. This putty may be ok for a water cooled system but it's just too darn hot for this gasket maker stuff.

It my contention to get the surfaces flat, as in purely flat (lapped). Add a nice soft copper gasket sprayed on both sides with 2 coats of copper spray(don't glob it on there, nice coats) and follow torqueing procedures to the letter. This is what works for me. Do not assume, and do not take this procedure for granted. If you use due diligence, it will hold. If the surfaces are not perfect to begin with, nothing will work for very long.

Since nobody decided to chime in (pussies), I will now leave the door open for the critics.
 
Matt Spencer said:
This rubbish works well as joint sealant . Not much luck as glue though .

hylomar vs the world


Saw a BSA A65 again , GUD splattered on the Oil Mist now . didnt hold 6 months .

Steam Pipe jointing paper for custom gaskets ( though a decale cutter should hack it these days )
had one real clean BSA centuries ago . Only fuel drop stains on top of the case from the concentrics.
The back road dust otherwise undampened over or under .

The PLIOBOND was the choice of universal motorcycles . and theyre still around . Even sold it AS sealant .

That was the stuff we put chainsaws together with in the 70's. its petrol resistant. When I got my first commando, the bastard leaked, so I stripped enough of the engine to glue it all back together with the pliobond. Never leaked again. Didn't know about superblends then [ timing did ball bearing shit itself 6 yrs ago or so ], so ended up rebuilding it again with the s/blends and new pistons about 5 years ago. [ the original pliobond job went for about 6,000 miles ] this time I used automotive silicone. no leaks yet, but also no miles done on that one either. [ it just clicked over 13,000 miles.
 
Matt Spencer said:
This rubbish works well as joint sealant . Not much luck as glue though .

hylomar vs the world


Saw a BSA A65 again , GUD splattered on the Oil Mist now . didnt hold 6 months .

Steam Pipe jointing paper for custom gaskets ( though a decale cutter should hack it these days )
had one real clean BSA centuries ago . Only fuel drop stains on top of the case from the concentrics.
The back road dust otherwise undampened over or under .

The PLIOBOND was the choice of universal motorcycles . and theyre still around . Even sold it AS sealant .

That was the stuff we put chainsaws together with in the 70's. its petrol resistant. When I got my first commando, the bastard leaked, so I stripped enough of the engine to glue it all back together with the pliobond. Never leaked again. Didn't know about superblends then [ timing did ball bearing shit itself 6 yrs ago or so ], so ended up rebuilding it again with the s/blends and new pistons about 5 years ago. [ the original pliobond job went for about 6,000 miles ] this time I used automotive silicone. no leaks yet, but also no miles done on that one either. [ it just clicked over 13,000 miles.
 
pete.v said:
Dkt26 said:
So does anyone have an opinion on yamabond for pushrods tunnels when using copper gasket? Can it handle the heat etc?????
OK I'll stick it out there. I think this is the wrong product and type of product for this application.. Head surfaces need to be mated as well as can be. This putty may be ok for a water cooled system but it's just too darn hot for this gasket maker stuff.

It my contention to get the surfaces flat, as in purely flat (lapped). Add a nice soft copper gasket sprayed on both sides with 2 coats of copper spray(don't glob it on there, nice coats) and follow torqueing procedures to the letter. This is what works for me. Do not assume, and do not take this procedure for granted. If you use due diligence, it will hold. If the surfaces are not perfect to begin with, nothing will work for very long.

Since nobody decided to chime in (pussies), I will now leave the door open for the critics.

Cheers Pete. I had concerns bout heat as well but wasn't sure.
 
Dkt26 said:
[Cheers Pete. I had concerns bout heat as well but wasn't sure.

FWIW. I am sure my ways are not definative, but they were applied to either a Combat head or a head that has been shaved with increased compression.
 
Reading the ebay add, it appears Yamabond as been altered to remove the "LEAD"? ..tipical of Brit health laws...OOOOH its got lead...lets panic! Just incase a child chews on the commando crank cases :lol:

B+Bogus said:
I've had a Wellseal failure on my 850 barrel flange due to the PCV connection coming off, so I tried getting some Yamabond.
Nearest stockist - USA!
Checking the internet it seems the consensus is Threebond 1104 is the same product, they supply quite a few OEMs, including Norton.
I've got some on order.
 
Dkt26 said:
What about yamabond on pushrods tunnels when using copper head gaskets?

No - won't work

Use only contact cement and .005" copper wire (also around oil return hole)
 
If you use copper wire both sides then that is an extra 10thou added to. A 21 thou copper gasket meaning at some locations on the gasket you would have 31thou and others 21thou. I understand that the copper wire will compress somewhat but isn't the key to using copper to have the surfaces absolutely straight, flat etcetera?
 
Dkt26 said:
If you use copper wire both sides then that is an extra 10thou added to. A 21 thou copper gasket meaning at some locations on the gasket you would have 31thou and others 21thou. I understand that the copper wire will compress somewhat but isn't the key to using copper to have the surfaces absolutely straight, flat etcetera?

I don't think it would work for Dk's requirements but Loctite No 3 is doing a great job under my inner rocker spindle gasket which split a week ago. I tested it yesterday morning taking Mary from next door for high tea at Craigiburn. Going to 7000rpm in all gears but top we got there very quickly and not a spot of oil to be seen. Mary refused to be in the photo because she had left her teeth at home and was still in her pyjamas.

Phil
 

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phil yates said:
Dkt26 said:
If you use copper wire both sides then that is an extra 10thou added to. A 21 thou copper gasket meaning at some locations on the gasket you would have 31thou and others 21thou. I understand that the copper wire will compress somewhat but isn't the key to using copper to have the surfaces absolutely straight, flat etcetera?

I don't think it would work for Dk's requirements but Loctite No 3 is doing a great job under my inner rocker spindle gasket which split a week ago. I tested it yesterday morning taking Mary from next door for high tea at Craigiburn. Going to 7000rpm in all gears but top we got there very quickly and not a spot of oil to be seen. Mary refused to be in the photo because she had left her teeth at home and was still in her pyjamas.

Phil

Sorry about that. I forgot to mention that going to Craigiburn is all up hill.

Phil
 
jseng1 said:
Dkt26 said:
What about yamabond on pushrods tunnels when using copper head gaskets?

No - won't work

Use only contact cement and .005" copper wire (also around oil return hole)

Hi Jim, what exactly do you mean by 'contact cement'? Can you give me a brand name, so I can ensure I get the right stuff?
 
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