How Old is too Old?

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I would probably want standard OEM bars. So the caliper is up to the task with the upgraded MC?
On the caliper end, Ferrodo brake pads are the agreed compound of choice. But yes, there is nothing technically wrong with the stock caliper.

I switched away from it only because I want a lining compound with an even higher friction.
 
Standard bars meaning US or UK, Commando or Interstate?
It makes a noticeable difference just putting on the 13mm.
I did get my rotor lightened but doubt that makes any diff in brake effect.

And yes a different caliper means you can use pads of different composition but
just as importantly, more surface area. Norton pads are tiny.
 
Standard bars meaning US or UK, Commando or Interstate?
It makes a noticeable difference just putting on the 13mm.
I did get my rotor lightened but doubt that makes any diff in brake effect.

And yes a different caliper means you can use pads of different composition but
just as importantly, more surface area. Norton pads are tiny.
I'm hoping to find a US Commando Roadster.
 
Don't talk about it just do it, get the bike, 850s are pretty reliable owning mine since new and have never had any problems with Lucas wiring, but then I did my own wiring and made it simple when I converted to the Featherbed frame and now with the Joe Hunt maggie my wiring is even simpler, just a small battery for bright light when I need to use it more for the brake light as no longer do much night riding on the Norton I have my modern Triumphs for night riding, my Joe Hunt is always a first kick everytime as it puts out such a good spark and with the RGM folding kick and is also longer its even easier to kick to life and mine is a high compression motor, I am 62 now and have no intention of giving up riding, 49 years now without a bike, so good luck and get back on the road.

Ashley
 
Don't talk about it just do it, get the bike, 850s are pretty reliable owning mine since new and have never had any problems with Lucas wiring, but then I did my own wiring and made it simple when I converted to the Featherbed frame and now with the Joe Hunt maggie my wiring is even simpler, just a small battery for bright light when I need to use it more for the brake light as no longer do much night riding on the Norton I have my modern Triumphs for night riding, my Joe Hunt is always a first kick everytime as it puts out such a good spark and with the RGM folding kick and is also longer its even easier to kick to life and mine is a high compression motor, I am 62 now and have no intention of giving up riding, 49 years now without a bike, so good luck and get back on the road.

Ashley
I used to rewire most of the BSAs and Triumphs in the lower Allegheny valley back in the early '70s. There was enough wire in the stock harness to rewire 3 motorcycles.

Waiting for the sale of my farm to close. Scheduled for Sept 7th but it looks like it might close earlier. I'm searching for 73-74 850 Commando Roadsters right now but can't make a move until I have cash in hand.
 
I think most will agree that a 13mm cylinder with braided hose and Ferodo Platinum pads are enough with the stock caliper to give a useful front brake.
If you want to go racing, though..........
 
I think most will agree that a 13mm cylinder with braided hose and Ferodo Platinum pads are enough with the stock caliper to give a useful front brake.
If you want to go racing, though..........
No racing or repeated hard braking. Just want a front brake that can haul it down quickly from 100+ MPH in an emergency.
 
On my 850 Commando/Featherbed I run 2 main power wires one brake, one tail light wire and one earth wire, so 5 main wires all up all my electrics are in the tool tray under the seat with the small battery, can't get no simpler than that.
 
The standard Norton MC will work - albeit barely- with low clubman bars in the upright road position but the lever can only be in one position radially relative to the bars . Fortunately for me it is just right.
AEC6E71B-DCE1-428F-BF5C-817F5EE0AE59.jpeg
 
After 35years of marriage that ended in divorce I ended up with a nice settlement and I think it is time for me to enjoy life again. I'm thinking about getting a pre MK2 850 Commando. I have about 5 years experience with BSA A65 and knew every part on my 1967 Thunderbolt. I never saw any need for electric start on a British bike as long as they were tuned properly and one knew the proper starting sequence. I even preferred kick start on my 1964 86 cu in Panhead stroker.

Is 70 too old to start riding again? I am in b very good health and feel about 1/2 my chronological age.
What caught my eye was "ended up with a nice settlement". You must be some sort of Unicorn. Most of us in that scenario lost more money than we knew we had. If you want a Norton, get a Norton. If you go to any Norton or Brit bike event you will find you are right there in the demographic.
 
What caught my eye was "ended up with a nice settlement". You must be some sort of Unicorn. Most of us in that scenario lost more money than we knew we had. If you want a Norton, get a Norton. If you go to any Norton or Brit bike event you will find you are right there in the demographic.
The funny thing is, my ex was the one that insisted on the divorce. I had a good lawyer and she had painted herself into a corner so to speak. It wasn't a whole lot, but I ended up with everything and she got nothing.
 
Not a complete unicorn, I have been through 2 divorces, both caused by my wive's infidelity. I still have my house, my shop, my bikes, and everything else important to me. Just have to keep a cool head, stick to the high road, and let karma run it's course.
 
Illustration of my stock euro bars on my 74. I took the feed off the brake switch
port and capped the stock output port. A bit iffy but works fine.
 

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Do it as soon as you are able,.... but a little up front info about owning/riding a Commando.... things change... to family/friends you'll never be considered as 'normal' again. If you are cut doing maintenance and any of the Commando oil/grime gets into it you'll not return to polite society. You shall become a marked man like most here, so prepare yourself to get a second one.
You can upgrade until you're forced to live under a bridge although they function fine as they were made for normal riding.
 
The standard Norton MC will work - albeit barely- with low clubman bars in the upright road position but the lever can only be in one position radially relative to the bars . Fortunately for me it is just right.
View attachment 81520
that pretty much looks like my 74 Mk2. installed the UK/euro bars - all hoses and control cables were fitted for those bars. i think the key is to have the fluid level in the master cylinder as level as possible. i'm level in a fore-aft direction, but have a slight tilt in the right-left direction. as i recall, i'm thinking i had a 7° tilt when i mounted the MC due to the geometry of the handlebars.

How Old is too Old?
 
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It is only important to have the master cylinder fairly level when you take the cap off!

Or how would us guys with clip ons ever have a functioning brake?
 
No racing or repeated hard braking. Just want a front brake that can haul it down quickly from 100+ MPH in an emergency.
Then I think you want a multi pot caliper, with better EBC pads.

I put the CNW Brembo unit on and it is just like modern bike. You can get street/track day pads for it that are fantastic. I also have those pads on my modern Duc and they are night and day from the stock Brembo pads or Ferodo.

Another bonus is I use adjustable shorty levers on them, which helps as I have Dupetruyn's.


Another good option is Don Penders kit. Also modern based and gets very good reviews. I assume you can at least get EBC HH pads for those, if not the excellent EPFA ones.


Maybe @Fast Eddie can chime in on the differences as I think he has had both.
 
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I found that the CNW Brembo MC, SS brake lines and the Ferodo pads on the OEM caliper provided brakes that feel like modern brakes. The limiting factor on stopping power will change from the brake system (OEM) to front tire traction. TBF, my Commando has a non-OEM ventilated rotor which was on the bike when I bought it. I do not know if that rotor makes the braking more (or less) effective than the stock rotor.

I do high speed "emergency stops" from "as fast as the bike can go" on virtually every ride to ensure I have the feel for how the bike acts in that situation and I haven't felt the need for more braking power.

If it matters, CNW has an adapter that allows the use of the Brembo MC with the OEM Lucas switchgear.
 
Illustration of my stock euro bars on my 74. I took the feed off the brake switch
port and capped the stock output port. A bit iffy but works fine.
(Ok, I know this is drifting from the original subject). I like your thinking there Onder, but doesn't that leave an air pocket which cannot be bled out?
 
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