Horn removal

quawk

Joined
Jan 1, 2024
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When posting about my recently acquired 1973 Hi-Rider, I asked if these bikes originally came with a horn, turn signal indicators, and a center stand, as my bike seemed to have none of these things. Responders said that it may have a horn and if not working, (which mine wasn't) it is hard to even find it if you don't know where to look. Some posters even joked (well, maybe they weren't joking) that the horn was the first thing installed and they built the rest of the bike around it. Upon being informed of it's location and looking closer, I see what they mean. I did find that it does have one, but as I mentioned is not working. After finding it and looking at it for a fair amout of time and scratching my head trying to figure out how to get to it, I researched postings about getting to it to check or replace it, and/or check wiring for voltage. Some posters indicated you had to go as far as removing the rear wheel and removing a mudflap. I will report that I was able to get to the horn to check it and the wiring, and remove it by first removing the seat, the battery side cover, the tail light and the rear fender. I did not have to remove the rear wheel, nor did my bike have any "mudflap" on it. I'm sure others before me have figured this out. I, as I'm sure others have, wondered why Norton buried the horn in a location that was so difficult and time consuming to get to. That location also had to muffle the loudness of the horn to a degree. Personally, I never use the horn, on a bike or in a car, but I do like to have all the accessories working on my bikes. Although hard to get to, I will put the replacement horn, when I get one, back in the original location.
 
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The Lucas horn is rebuildable like most things on Brit machines. Drill the rivets to open it then clean the contact points inside. Most likely though a wire has come off or broken. Give the female spade connectors an extra crimp before putting them on the horn.
 
ILLF8ED said:
The Lucas horn is rebuildable like most things on Brit machines. Drill the rivets to open it then clean the contact points inside. Most likely though a wire has come off or broken. Give the female spade connectors an extra crimp before putting them on the horn.
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Not that I wouldn't be willing to do it, but I don't know if it would be worth the trouble of rebuilding the horn, but I may consider it. Thanks for the tip. I did check the supply wires to the horn and I do have voltage when the horn button is pushed.
 
I also had my hirider horn not working when I got my bike. Pulled it as you describe, fitted my go to FiAMM FreewayBlaster II high tone horn in its place and went out all the other work need to get bike running. Many months later, had oem horn out on bench, preparing to toss it in the bin for good, when on a wim tried connecting 12v to terminals....WOW what honk it made, jumped out of my skin.

Turns out it was a poor battery on the bike that just could not fire the horn, though lamps worked and bike could be started.
So moral is test, don't assume something is bad or non functional.
It is a bit of a boat anchor so never bothered refitting it.
If fitting something like the FiAMM units, always use the included mounting brackets, do not bend them or paint them. The horns are tuned to resonate properly with those brackets supporting it. Ensure horn is not jammed up against something like an oil line or cradle.
 
Tornado said:
I also had my hirider horn not working when I got my bike. Pulled it as you describe, fitted my go to FiAMM FreewayBlaster II high tone horn in its place and went out all the other work need to get bike running. Many months later, had oem horn out on bench, preparing to toss it in the bin for good, when on a wim tried connecting 12v to terminals....WOW what honk it made, jumped out of my skin.

Turns out it was a poor battery on the bike that just could not fire the horn, though lamps worked and bike could be started.
So moral is test, don't assume something is bad or non functional.
It is a bit of a boat anchor so never bothered refitting it.
If fitting something like the FiAMM units, always use the included mounting brackets, do not bend them or paint them. The horns are tuned to resonate properly with those brackets supporting it. Ensure horn is not jammed up against something like an oil line or cradle.
Click to expand...
Again thanks for the advice. I have tested the horn with leads to a fully charged known good battery that had plenty of juice and it still would not sound. I intend to replace it with an original or an as close as you can get similar one, if I do not take this one apart and try to fix it.
 
quawk said:
Just guessing here, but I think I know what a BFH means in several languages.
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YUP, it means just what you think it means........
A critical item for the Britmeisters tool box.....
 
ILLF8ED said:
The Lucas horn is rebuildable like most things on Brit machines. Drill the rivets to open it then clean the contact points inside. Most likely though a wire has come off or broken. Give the female spade connectors an extra crimp before putting them on the horn.
Click to expand...
Thanks for this tip. I went ahead and took the horn apart, and as you said the contact points inside were dirty/corroded and weren't making. Cleaned them and now have a working original horn and saved a few bucks. Again, thanks.
 
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