Home made auto advance locking washer?
- Thread starter Robb2014
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Just threw a old washer on , or two . Thicker one with hole fits over inner , so when tightened the cabbodle locks .
Now , Yr going to need grim determination on fire up . Correct ( tdc ) before throwing your weight on the crank .
The crank can then throw your weight UP , if youre half arsed . Stuffing your knee intoo the bottom of the handlebars .
Then youll have to pretend not to limp for two days & have grim faced stoic determination to fire it up .
:lol: 8)
Now , Yr going to need grim determination on fire up . Correct ( tdc ) before throwing your weight on the crank .
The crank can then throw your weight UP , if youre half arsed . Stuffing your knee intoo the bottom of the handlebars .
Then youll have to pretend not to limp for two days & have grim faced stoic determination to fire it up .
:lol: 8)- Joined
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Heres Dave's ickle pretty pic of Auto Adv .
The washer O.D. wants to be about the outer round bits Dia. The Hole size is Obvious with the screw out .
Set Fully Adv. Then LOCK . :mrgreen:
By The Way , WHAT Handlebars are fitted . :?: :wink:
Maybe its a spring washer under the edge , Doubt it . B S A Advance Mech is superior to the Nortons ' 12 ' as its ' 15 ' giving a 500 rpm idle if the carbs arnt knackered . stiffer Springs hold adv.
from 1000 to 2.500 + . easy to check with strobe .
Why the heck do you want to LOCK the Advance , is the thing clapped out . Mine fuked WITH an ' L '
the good bits from The Norton & BSA for a good one. So Not Always the same bits that wear .
The washer O.D. wants to be about the outer round bits Dia. The Hole size is Obvious with the screw out .
Set Fully Adv. Then LOCK . :mrgreen:
By The Way , WHAT Handlebars are fitted . :?: :wink:
Maybe its a spring washer under the edge , Doubt it . B S A Advance Mech is superior to the Nortons ' 12 ' as its ' 15 ' giving a 500 rpm idle if the carbs arnt knackered . stiffer Springs hold adv.
from 1000 to 2.500 + . easy to check with strobe .
Why the heck do you want to LOCK the Advance , is the thing clapped out . Mine fuked WITH an ' L '
the good bits from The Norton & BSA for a good one. So Not Always the same bits that wear .
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Matt Spencer said:
He want's to check the ignition timing. https://www.accessnorton.com/NortonCommando/what-to-expect-first-start-in-10-years.12888/post-180550
Hopefully he doesn't intend to run it with the AAU locked.
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I've always ended up *not* using the AAU washer lock method in the end though I've tired it a few times [pun]. Always ended up using a small screw driver or probe as best ya can expect is just ballpark close then ya got to knock the AAU loose again, which can-tends to move it frustratingly out of ballpark. I found more easy-practical to just hold notch advanced as I turn the AAU till proper points open and test light lights. Then I push on AAU finger tight which generally binds it enough to turn engine w/o holding anything but the notch in advance to see if still lights near full adv 28' for Combats and 31-32 for the lesser compression engines. Repeat for second points. Then I set the point gap .015" and re test they still light up near full adv. Then try to start and if starts then diddle the points plate till just tends to backfire on kicks and ease in retard till just don't, then start up and only then put a time light on to see if both points fairly close like a degree between them. If not within about a degree agreement, I diddle each point to bring close to same as practical then start up and diddle for best start and throttle response w/o any back fire sense, then put time light on to see where it lands and if both points still close together. At that point I know about how much the factory dial is off or where to set in future. Points fully adv below 2500 rpm so not a terror to rev up long enough to make sure it doing its thing. At this point I begin shopping for another tire and AAU as that's about how long the AAU will stay un-worn returning to idle retard and electronic replacement floats to mind for the longer term. For my own satisfaction I go back and forth till both points are about in middle adjustment range and so is the whole timing plate in its slots. If ya want to win a slow idle contest set one contact breaker more retarded than the other. With like 5' spread like my Trixie Combat came with, she idled at 400 rpm easy and smooth as ya please which pleased me no end but know that's very bad juju on a Commando Cam/Lifters so bump it up 900-1000 for road life stop/go and use slide screws to lower to 600 when there's a stranger or crowd to impress.
Maintenance using a moly anti-seize grease on the cam and weight pivots helps give a long service life.
Silicon grease on the points plastic wiper helps too.
Make sure the crimp holding the cam to the frame is still solid.
The unit on the right side of this photo has loosened.
The best quick way to check aau operation is to use a strobe light on the alternator rotor. A good operating unit will show a smooth advance as engine revs increase.
But you still have to remove and disassemble to do maintenance!
Silicon grease on the points plastic wiper helps too.
Make sure the crimp holding the cam to the frame is still solid.
The unit on the right side of this photo has loosened.
The best quick way to check aau operation is to use a strobe light on the alternator rotor. A good operating unit will show a smooth advance as engine revs increase.
But you still have to remove and disassemble to do maintenance!
maylar
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I always used my fingers to hold the advance while turning the AAU with it lightly seated in the taper. As I approached the high spot on the cam and the points begin to open I would allow the advance to back off and close the contacts again. The perfect setting is when the points just open with the advance at full.
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Check the slots in the bob weights for wear. The pins tend to wear notches in the bob weights and then, dynamically not statically, they tend to stick in the open/advanced position. That in turn, causes an intermittent high idle, which is often incorrectly attributed to "worn Amals." A strobe light on the drive side timing marks that is bouncy or inconsistent also may be tattling on worn, and therefore sticky, bob weights.
I ran a locked advance for years before I bought a Trispark. No problems, you just have to bring it up onto (not past) compression, and then kick it through with authority.
I ran a locked advance for years before I bought a Trispark. No problems, you just have to bring it up onto (not past) compression, and then kick it through with authority.
Ive got another question on the auto advance for anybody. If you put a screwdriver in the slot, you can rotate the outer shaft about a quarter of an inch before it hits a stop.... however, if you pull out on this outer shaft, you can rotate it another quarter of an inch, and looking under the points plate, I can see that the armatures extend out about twice as much when doing so. Which position is correct for full advance?
L.A.B. said:
No, but before you put the bolt on you're supposed to go to full advance first, then lock it in. When taking the breaker plate off, there are two curved channels that a guide runs through. When just rotating, the guide goes half way and stops. If the outer shaft is pulled slightly, it allows the unit to rotate about twice as much where it hits the stop at the end of the channel. I was just wondering if I was in fact getting the unit in full advanced position. The manuals are very vague when describing this procedure.
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