High Gear Machining for Circlip

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Mar 4, 2025
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Hello. Upon inspecting my high gear, which is perfect, I see there is no circlip groove outer or inner. So it must be a 750 unit. Is there any reason that my machinist couldn't cut a groove and I install at least an outer clip? Is that a reasonable assumption? Thank you.
 
Hello. Upon inspecting my high gear, which is perfect, I see there is no circlip groove outer or inner. So it must be a 750 unit. Is there any reason that my machinist couldn't cut a groove and I install at least an outer clip? Is that a reasonable assumption? Thank you.
Are you seeing some reason to go to the trouble. I like the inner and outer circlip version but honestly, no circlip has worked for over 50 years!

To answer your question, yes, a good machinist could cut the groove(s) and you could replace the bushings (and probably have to have them honed).
 
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Thank you for your reply. That is what I wanted to know. I am just getting to know Nortons and if it is a fairly rare occurrance for the bushings to move then I shall use this sleeve gear with no grooves. Again, thanks.
 
I grind the circlip groove into the sleeve gear, in the lathe, using a tool post mounted grinding spindle fitted with a small cutting disc from a dremel kit. Works a treat. I,ve had to do this on a few sleeve gears ranging from a 1956 ES2 to a late Mk2a.
If you do replace the bushings, DON'T hone them out. If they are tight on the mainshaft after fitting you need to ream them out. Honing is actually circular lapping using an abrasive stone. you do not want any particles of abrasive stone to get embedded in the bush. Reaming is a cutting process so no abrasive used.
Using bushings from RGM or AN i have had no problem with tight bushes.


Photo of circlip groove ground into sleeve gear
 
I grind the circlip groove into the sleeve gear, in the lathe, using a tool post mounted grinding spindle fitted with a small cutting disc from a dremel kit. Works a treat. I,ve had to do this on a few sleeve gears ranging from a 1956 ES2 to a late Mk2a.
If you do replace the bushings, DON'T hone them out. If they are tight on the mainshaft after fitting you need to ream them out. Honing is actually circular lapping using an abrasive stone. you do not want any particles of abrasive stone to get embedded in the bush. Reaming is a cutting process so no abrasive used.
Using bushings from RGM or AN i have had no problem with tight bushes.


Photo of circlip groove ground into sleeve gear

Look up TIMESAVER lapping compound. Great stuff.
 
No thanks, you use it. I won't
Cylinder Bores and bushes have been honed for decades, if you learn to clean them properly all is OK, reaming also has issues like lobeing 6 or so high spots. There're was a group of people that had this school of thought in the eightys and ninetys that wanted a bored finish, no hone, I don't think it worked too well. Cheers
 
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Cylinder Bores and bushes have been honed for decades, if you learn to clean them properly all is OK, reaming also has issues like lobeing 6 or so high spots. There're was a group of people that had this school of thought in the eightys and ninetys that wanted a bored finish, no hone, I don't think it worked too well. Cheers
I must correct myself, in an earlier post i said 'honing is circular lapping' This is not strictly true. I should have said 'its like circular lapping' They are two different processes, similar but different.
In our sleeve gear bush that is made of Oilite sintered bronze and the way it is made, leaves voids that hold the oil impregnated in the bush. If you use a lapping media to 'lap' the bush some of this media will impregnate the bush. If the bush was made of a material that didn't allow this to happen, that is different. The lapping compound would be washed away after lapping and everything is hunky dory.
It really depends on what the job is and what the components are made from, guides you to what process is suitable.
 
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