help with replacing fork seals

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radiofun said:
So what your saying is that I need to man-up and really reef on it.

Yes, "give it some welly" as we say in the UK, applying some heat to the slider around the top bush may also help?
 
Thanks to all your help I was able to get both fork sliders off and replace the seals and other part and get both legs back together. The only problem now is that on one side I can't get the bottom bolt tight. It threads onto the end of the damper assembly but then the whole assembly turns. Is there a trick to keeping the damper stationary while the bolt is tightened?
 
radiofun said:
Is there a trick to keeping the damper stationary while the bolt is tightened?

The same basic procedure for slackening can be used to tighten the assembly by preloading the damper tube as much as possible (fit the spring and fork cap bolt and compress the fork leg as much as possible) and shock the bolt to tighten it-but first ensure the bolt runs easily into the damper before fitting the damper into the slider.
 
L.A.B. said:
radiofun said:
Is there a trick to keeping the damper stationary while the bolt is tightened?

The same basic procedure for slackening can be used to tighten the assembly by preloading the damper tube as much as possible (fit the spring and fork cap bolt and compress the fork leg as much as possible) and shock the bolt to tighten it-but first ensure the bolt runs easily into the damper before fitting the damper into the slider.

I used a small impact gun for both dissassembly and assembly, worked like a dream. ( Small impact gun! not a 3\4" ) 8)
 
OK, you win. This is the third time I've heard "use an impact gun", so I will cough up the dough and buy one.
 
radiofun said:
OK, you win. This is the third time I've heard "use an impact gun", so I will cough up the dough and buy one.

i read this and laughed, i bought a cordless setup a long time ago and it came with a lightweight impact and i never got a reason to use it. With the norton I have used it so many times!!! Mostly to remove stuck stuff. very useful, you dont need it then one day you need it and after that your using it all the time!
 
All done and all is well. In retrospect, the easiest way to replace these components seems to be,

1. set bike on lift table so forks extend over the end of the table.
2. remove chrome bolt on top of fork.
3. remove collar nut on the top of the lower fork leg.
4. slide the lower fork leg with the damper assembly attached out the bottom.

This leaves the damper attached to the lower fork leg and avoids the bolt loosening/tightening issue.

Food for thought.
 
I have always made it a habit of running taps and dies in all threads after disassembly and washing out the threads.
If a nut or bolt is hard to remove it needs to be cleaned up or it will be just as hard to tighten.

Of course you'll have to man up and buy some Whitworth taps and dies too to go along with your new impact driver.
 
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