help, NO hot starts

okay,
start up procedure

tickle carbs,
find neutral (this takes 15 tries),
get kicker to tdc,
once through with clutch in,
find tdc again,
kick and start,
usually on second try.

reach for helmet (gloves, etc)
or drop into 1st
stall

no starting now no matter what I do, throttle open, half or closed. re-tickled or not, push start or not.

so,
pull plugs
not wet = not flooded?

but, ignition on and plugs lying on the head
push through kicker
no discernable spark

what the hell?

thoughts and advice please

Lets start with...... Bad Battery? Check voltage.

Points? Electronic ignition?

What does the battery voltage read? Or do the lights, horn, etc. still work when it refuses to start?

If you have no lights, horn, etc., then check the main fuse and holder, battery connections and earth connections to frame, engine. Look for fretted wires, loose terminals and bad earths.

If you have lights, etc., run a wire directly from the battery - (if you have + positive earth or 'ground' as they say in US) to the ignition coil feed wire. Does it spark then? If it does, your ignition switch is faulty or there is a broken wire somewhere.

Let us know what ignition system you have.

If you have an ohm meter (multimeter set to ohms), check for continuity along all the relevant wires from battery to ignition switch, to ignition coils to whatever trigger you have inside your points cover.

Maybe someone else will think of something I have missed...

I think it's a boyer ignition - how do I tell? (other than the previous owner told me)
What do I look for that indicates the boyer? I assume the boyer is electronic?

Battery was tested at 10V and a dead cell so it's certainly not helping any. I'll get a new one Monday.
Any other types of more powerful battery I should invest in? (or do I need to stay stock?)

The plugs were in lousy shape - pretty old and beat.
I got a new set but they are not stock, they are one heat range hotter.
This is replacing what was already in there.
What are everyone's thoughts on this?

Regardless, I thought that a kicked engine did not need a strong battery. Am I wrong on this?
I hope that these two things will be the end of my starting woes but I have my doubts.......

Battery then see if it still behaves. Low voltage affects the Boyer in a bad way.

When you get the new battery in, validate the charging system. I think your going to be OK though.

What should the system charge at when running?

My other bike charges at 14.5 volts across the battery - this one too?

Yes, upto 14.5V depending on revs. I had a dead cell battery recently, took a lot longer to start and was banging and farting until the revs were high.

Is your bike running standard coils or a single dual output one?

I've has similar issues in the past with ignition coils which work fine until hot - if you're on a coil per cylinder you can pretty much ignore this!

Other possibilities...dodgy cutout switch/ignition switch (already discussed, I know )
Easy to check these with a continuity tester/voltmeter; an essential Commando workshop tool.

Low voltage with a Boyer is easily detected by sudden pain in the right foot, followed by difficulty in walking for about ten minutes after the event!
This seems more like an intermittent open circuit type issue on first appraisal.

okay,

Found a battery for $49 canuck

Will go and get and install.

I'll let you know how it turns out..............................

10 volts? I would bet that's the problem w/Boyer.

Low voltage with a Boyer is easily detected by sudden pain in the right foot, followed by difficulty in walking for about ten minutes after the event!
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Very good Andy, many of us have been there!
Dave.

I’m curious why it takes 15 tries to find neutral, it can be caused by a number of things. Primary chain or belt drive? If chain, refer to manual and check the tension. If it always stalls when you drop it in to first, check your clutch adjustment. On the side (and apologies if it’s bleeding obvious), but if you don’t know how old the fuel is drain the tank and replace it.

I’m curious why it takes 15 tries to find neutral, it can be caused by a number of things. Primary chain or belt drive? If chain, refer to manual and check the tension. If it always stalls when you drop it in to first, check your clutch adjustment. On the side (and apologies if it’s bleeding obvious), but if you don’t know how old the fuel is drain the tank and replace it.

Click to expand...

Mostly becuase I am performance challenged (read moron)
Stalls into first if it is not warm

Fuel is fresh.

Mostly I am just getting used to the bike i think.