Hello, New to the board w/ 72 commando.

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blipJC

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Oct 9, 2010
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I started to clean up my bike, (has been in storage for about 20 yrs) got it running, and now thinking about what to do. full restoration or get what I need to make it look good and road safe. It was checked over and started every couple years, but was not on the road for over 25. I have ordered most of the electrical components as well as some cosmetic, just not sure if I want to go all out and do a frame off. Not many places where I live to get work done, and no place near to get parts. All the bike shops don't even sound like the want to help if it's not a harley. It's not going to be a show bike, so it doesn't need to be perfect, but I do want it to look like a original stock bike.

Also I started to rebuild the front calliper so I used brake cleaner. I went to put it all back together as the seals were still in good shape, and the piston seal did not fit. It's like it stretched about a 1/4 inch, so I have ordered a rebuild kit as well as a master cylinder kit. was just curious about what mighed of caused this. I was told it might have been the brake fluid. I was using a new jug of DOT3, and don't want the new seals to be damaged if that is what caused it. any suggestions or comments on what to use?
Thanks.
 
Welcome blip. First off never use brake cleaner on rubber that you intend to reuse. The chemicals destroy the compounds. Brake cleaner is only for metal. Second, don't use DOT3 for anything that may use natural rubber (i.e. old British brake seals), use DOT4 or switch to silicone (but you'd have to rebuild/replace ALL seals. Third, don't attempt to reuse old rubber in a braking system. That shit is decades old and not worth your life to save a few bucks.
 
Let me encourage you if I can. You remember what it was like to ride. It can be that way again. Believe me, you can do it, I did it in a spare bedroom and had every nut and bolt off the bike inside and out. Just get a plan and go into the zone and get it done. We can help. The forum helped me lots and I am just about done, it's running, all I need is a license plate and insurance.

Dave
69S
 
Before SwooshDave says it, post up some photos so we can see how it looks. Also if you put your location in your profile, maybe someone on the board can recommend a shop nearby.

You could also consider shipping parts out for work. CNW, OldBritts, GrandPaul, and other specialists will rebuild engines and transmissions for you if that's what you need. Most everything else is doable with a modest number of tools.
 
I think most of us mail order our parts. Here are a few more sources for parts: Commando Specialties (Massachucetts), RGM (England) and British Only (Michigan).
 
Thanks. I will post some pics when I get a chance. I am from Saskatchewan Canada. I have been ordering from a place in Edmonton, Canada called Motoparts. The guy there has been very helpful. He told me he can get every part for the bike and to call or email if I need help or had any questions. I used DOT 3 because that is what the original riders manual said to use. I have ordered a rebuild kit that includes all new seals, as well as one for the master cylinder.
Thanks. I am sure I will need more answers and advice as I go. Its going to be fun.
 
Blip,
The manual says to pull the spark plug wire of the spark plug on a running bike to tune the carbs. That is just one thing that we don't do any more. There are many things in the manual we just don't do any more. Some are just preference like air pressure in tires, and oil types. Some like pulling the wire off a running bike are just wrong.
 
Welcome Blip,

If someone has not told you before, it's pretty easy to be north of $10,000 restoring/upgrading these Commandos. It's not that any one thing is tremendously expensive, but the list (pile of receipts) gets pretty big. The thing that will save you the most money is this site. Of course, it will also call attention to things you thought were just fine. Many, many vendors selling Norton spares. Everyone I've dealt with is first line. Beware of eBay. Know what you are buying and what it's worth. One service I didn't see mentioned in the previous posts is Memphis Motor Werks. Leo Goff is the man there. Some of the best Norton machine work around. Not that the aforementioned are slouches.

Good luck with everything and check back, often.
 
Welcome. I would decide what you want to do to the bike in the long term and then prioritize that list. Start with the essentials to get the bike running good and work on the bike as an ongoing project that you can ride, unless you have several bikes. There are so many things you can do that are needed and there are also a lot of expensive mods that really are not necessary, but are nice and shiny. Post a few pictures so we can all see what you have.
 
Thanks. I know how expensive things can get. I also don't trust ebay for many things, as i am also restoring a Pontiac GTO (over 5 years now) and know what people try and pass off as quality parts. I am not much of a poster on message boards unless I can help out or I am in desperate need, but check them regularly so I will be around. As for my bike I still don't know what I want to do. I don't want to start to take it apart and get lazy and have it sitting it the garage doing nothing. I am already in slightly warm water with the family about the car taking up 3/4 of the garage in the winter and all of it in the summer. I am not much of a mechanic, unless its for body or paint work, then I don't have the greatest tool collection either. I have to decide in the next week or so if I want to do it or not. (sure would like to paint the frame though). I think I will go with britbike and start with the essentials first. I will try and get some photos up this weekend.
Thanks. Will keep you all updated.
 
Here are a couple pic form when I brought it out from storage.
Hello, New to the board w/ 72 commando.

Hello, New to the board w/ 72 commando.

The link to the gallery.
http://gallery.me.com/blip_jc#100106
 
The tank is the original fiberglass interstate tank. It was originally black w/ gold decals but has been repainted a blue/black along with the side covers and have silver reflective decals now.
 
Nice looking bike. Thanks for posting and welcome aboard!

You don't need a whole lot of special tools for these bikes as you can improvise a lot. 5/16th whitworth 3/8 drive THIN WALLED socket and the same size combination wrench are pretty essential but otherwise a decent set of sae tools and a big cresent wrench for the fork nuts will get you a long way. Check these postings for simple home made solutions for a lot of the special pullers etc. The 1st special tool I bought was the 3 jawed timing pinion puller. I managed without one for a while but that was the worst tool to be without for me.
 
blipJC said:
The tank is the original fiberglass interstate tank. It was originally black w/ gold decals but has been repainted a blue/black along with the side covers and have silver reflective decals now.
Click to expand...

Do a search on fiberglass tanks and ethanol fuels - you should probably address this problem before making the bike truly roadworthy to save yourself some grief

m
 
G'day Blip and welcome,
that all looks pretty fine, going to be a good looking bike again. Give it a thorough clean up and then see if you reckon it's a strip-down down job or not.
 
It looks like you have a very nice starting point. The bike I started with had a lot less than than that. I didn't have exhaust pipes or a tank. My bike was completely dismanteld when I got it and I got it back together in 7 months. I managed to make a nice bike and spent about $2,000.00, on parts and cylinder head work. the basket case also cost $2,000.00. For $4,000 and a lot of work, I have a bike I can sell easily for $6,000. I am enjoying riding it right now too much so I won't sell it. I cut a few corners and used a lot of parts I already had lying around. It would be really easy to spend $10,000 if you want everything to be anal retentively perfect. I didn't need any engine parts, except exhaust valves and guides so I saved a lot there. If you start replacing the rims and spokes, and every nut and bolt with stainless, you will end up spending a lot. I guess you can easily spend $2,000 just on the engine if a complete re build is required.

Dot 3 and Dot 4 brake fluid are not very much different from each other. Either can be used. If you are re building your whole brake system though I recommend Dot 5. I use it. It reduces rusting in the brake system. It is supposed to be more compressible, but acutally you can't notice any difference. I think the Norton front disk brake is pretty useless with the original bore master cylinder. Either change to a modern cylinder 12,13, or 14mm or have your original sleeved down by one of the specialists who does this. You can often get used Japanise master cylinders for free. You can buy generic ones sometimes for about $25.00. If you want to keep everything original looking you are going to have to pay more.
 
Got a few more pics put up.
And more in the link to the gallery.
http://gallery.me.com/blip_jc#100106
Hello, New to the board w/ 72 commando.

Interstate tank
Hello, New to the board w/ 72 commando.

Hello, New to the board w/ 72 commando.

Side covers
Hello, New to the board w/ 72 commando.

Shot showing the silver reflective decals (that I cut by hand.)
Hello, New to the board w/ 72 commando.

I have no build date on my data plate. And have know idea how to decode the VIN. Anyone care to help?
Hello, New to the board w/ 72 commando.
 
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