Heating Mk3 hubs to remove bearings
- Thread starter powerdoc
- Start date
- Status
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2009
- Messages
- 5,557
Probably tapped in slightly crooked. You still have to get bearing out and try again.
Good Grief ! There is no way that it should be necessary to beat seven bells out of an alloy hub. A couple of taps should be enough. Boiling water will run out but not before it's had time to warm up that large casting enough to break the interference.
Do you have a workshop manual ? It sounds as if you're knocking something the wrong way or there is still a retainer in place.
Do you have a workshop manual ? It sounds as if you're knocking something the wrong way or there is still a retainer in place.
- Joined
- Oct 29, 2006
- Messages
- 1,075
"Good Grief ! There is no way that it should be necessary to beat seven bells out of an alloy hub. A couple of taps should be enough. Boiling water will run out but not before it's had time to warm up that large casting enough to break the interference.
Do you have a workshop manual ? It sounds as if you're knocking something the wrong way or there is still a retainer in place."
+1!
Do you have a workshop manual ? It sounds as if you're knocking something the wrong way or there is still a retainer in place."
+1!
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2004
- Messages
- 21,110
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2005
- Messages
- 18,978
Ugh what a discouraging remark. Its public permanent proof to me that you 79x100 have not experienced the full scope of C'do abuse misfits and fossilized fussed parts so, should not be advising further than what you've experienced or read out the cook book instead of blaming the otherwise successful novice.
Brings to mind one my favorite dyslexic mystery meaning words. < Cleavage > fussing together or coming apart?
Powerdoc my heart goes out to your current dual stress, one it ain't working out as advertised and two half seasoned Nortoneers assuming its your own fault so just say repeat same mild mannered procedure to expect different results, ugh. I am ashamed of the level of escalations required in ''no name" pre Peel Combat stuff I've never heard mentioned yet by others - enough to know in some rare cases you may win on parting them at loss of both items.
- Joined
- Oct 29, 2006
- Messages
- 1,075
Hobot, I think you are mis-reading the intent of the post - which I agreed with. I read the post as pointing out that since that level of force is not commonly necessary, something could be damaged by overlooking a snap ring or some other standard retaining device. Yes, I suppose you are right that the post would point to the person involved as possibily doing the overlooking. But haven't we all done something like that - overlooked something in the disassembly/reassembly sequence?
Most of the bearings I have pulled have come out with no particular drama, either using the old, trusty hammer/socket or a proper bearing puller. But, as you noted, there is no telling what a previous owner did and I have seen bearings "retained" using anything from the various loctites to JB Weld in situations where a normal press-fit is the correct method.
FWIW, If a press-fit bearing needs something to retain it, then either the bearing is the wrong size or the part where the race seats is now of an incorrect (enlarged) inside diameter. Of course, the fix isn't Loctite or JB Weld; the fix is either he proper size bearing or a new or re-machined part.
Most of the bearings I have pulled have come out with no particular drama, either using the old, trusty hammer/socket or a proper bearing puller. But, as you noted, there is no telling what a previous owner did and I have seen bearings "retained" using anything from the various loctites to JB Weld in situations where a normal press-fit is the correct method.
FWIW, If a press-fit bearing needs something to retain it, then either the bearing is the wrong size or the part where the race seats is now of an incorrect (enlarged) inside diameter. Of course, the fix isn't Loctite or JB Weld; the fix is either he proper size bearing or a new or re-machined part.
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2009
- Messages
- 5,557
Archaic meaning was to adhere closely ,English is the world's most quickly evolving language and we now use it (cleaveage) to lift and separate. Retaining ring required after that view. :lol:
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2005
- Messages
- 18,978
Mike I've goffed by missing the circlip at first or years later on another bike forgetting about it as wasn't there to begin with, ugh. Once past normal situation you either keep repeating failures, like i have or eventually guit or get more brutal to destructive levels as nothing to loss by then. Of you're correct if parts not screwed up nor mis installed then normal protocol expected to work, but there are exceptions to the rule of thumb. Which digit I bashed -bled along with other hand bones dealing with both wheels inside and out.
In Peel and Trixies hubs I gave up on just heat as no results while hot so cold chisel and sledge did the dirty deed. On Peel I replace steel spacers with alloy but on Trixie just made provison in spacer ends for chisel purchase for the next guy after I'm done. Best way might be the internal puller if you can source or make one and patience enough to do so. I'm stil left with incompetent mechanic sense on my run ins so a sore subject even after me and bike damage healed over.
Clever restricter comment on the shifting meanings of cleavage shown.
In Peel and Trixies hubs I gave up on just heat as no results while hot so cold chisel and sledge did the dirty deed. On Peel I replace steel spacers with alloy but on Trixie just made provison in spacer ends for chisel purchase for the next guy after I'm done. Best way might be the internal puller if you can source or make one and patience enough to do so. I'm stil left with incompetent mechanic sense on my run ins so a sore subject even after me and bike damage healed over.
Clever restricter comment on the shifting meanings of cleavage shown.
madass140
VIP MEMBER
- Joined
- Nov 6, 2011
- Messages
- 2,125
I use a piece of round bar with nice square edge, when the round bar is inserted and against the inner bearing race even though it has little purchase I then wedge the round bar in place with a flat screw driver coming from the other side, this keeps the round bar (drift) from slipping off the bearing, then tap the bearing out, works for me and I do heaps of Norton wheels.
hobot said:
With respect, Mr. Bot, you have no idea whatsoever just what sort of wrecks and rusty jumble junk I've dealt with in the past. I have no knowledge of how many Mk3 rear hubs you've dismantled. In my defence, I've done plenty. I've never ever had to thump the bearings out of an aluminium alloy casting. In the preceding post, Madass has used the word 'tap' and that is exactly how I would put it. We're not talking about swinging arm spindles or seized axles here.
As the Haynes Manual usually states, If a part won't move when the correct procedure is used, then there is usually a reason for it and it's best to stop. My advice would be to have a cup of tea and then look at things again. My main concern was that the OP was being encouraged to hit the wretched thing ever harder with ever larger implements and that can't be right.
powerdoc
VIP MEMBER
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2011
- Messages
- 356
Next time I think will be beating on the the bolt of the axle; the front bearings came out so easily I was lulled into the gingerbread house and now my head is in the oven! I don't see any lockrings in my way. Had a party this PM so it'll have to wait for tomorrow. The wife thought I was making some cookies in the oven and was unusually calm when I pulled out the hub. As I've learned in the past, where there are a number of ways to do something, one way has not surfaced as the absolute best.
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2005
- Messages
- 18,978
oh oh, one thing I've learned is the worst cases of engine or marriage failure have silence as main sign/symptom. I'd sure do a nice perk to pay for operating outside your jurisdiction on something only you really enjoy. Note: Do Not - much as tempted tell her the truth when asked why you didn't ask first - "Well its easier to get forgiveness than ask permission"... Women have long memory and can hurt you. Really seriously as they keep adding each event into same emotional space till it bursts and anything that takes away from family is thought of as a rival. Might strike up conversation on what color she'd like best on the intruder : )
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2005
- Messages
- 18,978
Alrighty then you have a working married relation, of which I've been though A few not working either from my dulling of interest or theirs but finally found one we share main vices and flavors and politics - so no more having to work in shed or garage but right in living room - along with her plant jungle. I do await your 2nd shoe dropping on what you find and actually doing it to it. I've worked on big dozers, cranes, tractors, tight boats in the field and cheap to expensive lawn mowers so thought I had mettle enough to simplly follow instrutctions and normal advice but short of relationships blowing up my Combats have stopped me short, injured me and driven me to brain blanked spinal cord level screaming level, forcing mean mechanicals skills I never wanted to learn. Many my hand holding mentors are gone now so your turmoils flash me back. I now call these British Iron Blank Starting States. Have ya seen the robust factory crank sprocket puller I had one snap from the torque applied after hi oil smoke heating failed so about to give it a rap...
powerdoc
VIP MEMBER
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2011
- Messages
- 356
Well, I read the manual again and I got the bolt of the axle, inserted it and whacked a bit from the exposed side of the spacer and, what do you know, the FM was the right way to go! Out bearing number 1 came; turned the hub over , reinserted the bolt, whacked on it with a brass drift and, what do you know, the second bearing came out too!.. So guys and guyetts (if there are any on the board) sometimes it's important to RTFM at times. No heat needed . No drifting the edges of the exposed bearings. The jig I made did help hold the hubs while whacking. Now to appropriate the dishwasher to clean the hubs before polishing them and lacing the wheels. Another thread to follow about that.
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2005
- Messages
- 18,978
Say what ya didn't look at the manual prior, ugh, they were right. Wait till ya deal with the drum and dummy axle fitments. Any way glad for your success and on to the next hang up. Btw the rear axle had a radioactive half life, that is a certain percentage with fission over some interval. Might have mag fluxed cryo tempered, a new one or one piece or just use the old one like me with two news now. Eventually will come a day when nothing else to do but step on it, grin a bit, then let the clutch out.
I havent read this thread word for word, but IMO if you place a hub in an oven with the bearing still "home", then the complete assembly will heat up to the same temp equally.???... All will expand at the same rate (give or take alloy and steel) If the bearing is "difficult" to remove i would have thought that some heat applied to the casing by "flame" would expand the casing momentarily, prior to the bearing expanding with the heat so it can be "tapped" out. In my experience heat is the last resort UON ...
Sometimes too much information can be dangerous and lady luck helps a few out from time from time ....
Sometimes too much information can be dangerous and lady luck helps a few out from time from time ....
- Status
