Discussion in 'Norton Commando Motorcycles (Classic)' started by swooshdave, Aug 17, 2018.
Marked the primary side with a... P.
just make sure it doesn't rub off when you clean it all.
I'm not sure what it takes to get the Dykem off but I'll sure test it. I suspect it's meant to stay on.
This is how I do mine. you can't wash it off. Note: I will use a file to take off the sharp edges on the flywheel before cleaning and reassembly.
This is just after a cleaning in the industrial parts washer.
No idea what this is. A shellac? Not sure if there is a crack underneath.
It looks like some water has left a mark at the bottom. This will take a bit more scrubbing to remove.
I had my machinist check the journals. He said they were perfect. I believe the quote was they couldn't have been more round if they had just been ground.
I just wanted to have him confirm the condition but as soon as he saw the sludge trap he had to throw them in the parts washer for a good clean.
I asked about if I should touch the journals with something like emory cloth and he said absolutely not. Emory cloth is silicone carbide and may leave debris on the journal. Instead he gave me something like scotchbrite to use.
Before I could even get out the door he took the crank pieces to another building and threw them on this contraption and touched up the journals. One less thing to worry about.
You would think the sludge would be just inside the crank but here it was on the outside.
All cleaned up and ready to go. Well, once I get the new bolts set.
But first I need to get the bearings off. Luckily there was a 25% off coupon today.
Parts look great Dave, it's going to be a lot easier to do the ton knowing you have a bullet proof bottom end.
Are you using the cases that came with this crank? Did you talk to dynodave? Yes or no? no you didn't.
I am going to use the cases that came with the crank, on the slight chance my buddy will want the engine back. I will mod the cases, block the front hole and do something to the back because having oil return is a Good Thing™.
You did notice the slight ding right at the edge of the journal in your photo? Not in the best place dont neglect to attend to it.
top pic on post #146 I think is what he is referring to? you could touch it with a file or stone but I don't think it is an issue.
"top pic on post #146"
think this is "the slight ding right at the edge of the journal"
I thought you meant on the journal. I’ll obviously check the clearance there but if it was there originally it certainly wasn’t a problem.
I don’t think the Conrod will come close to that.
Personally, I’d still dress it back once I knew it was there. It’d only take a few seconds with a fine file.
Although marking which is the drive and timing side regarding the crankshaft centre section is a good idea,not all is lost if not done as the pad depth is different so easy to identify original position side to side. (Deeper on the T/S)
On first glance mine looks symmetrical.
Maybe the 72 engine is different, I have a picture somewhere.
Consider heating the bearing inners before pulling them off the crankshaft, it makes it much easier and minimises marking the journal, maybe even more so if you are in the colder part of the season... fwiw.
I assume you mean there is some difference in the flywheel? I sure can't find a difference.
Yes, I'll heat the inners a little to help them off but not too much to affect the crank.