Head gasket goop?

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BrianK

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In an effort to see how many "goop" threads I can start, let me ask you folks - gasket sealer/Yamabond/etc. on the head gasket, yea or nay? If yea, just around the pushrod tunnels and oil return hole, or the whole gasket? Tx - BK
 
When I rebuilt my Commando top end, I put a wee bit of Wellseal around the pushrod tunnels and that was it. I used Wellseal 'cause that's what I had. I used a flame ring type of gasket to replace the copper one that was on the bike. Has solved a small oil leak I had from the head gasket region although this may be due more to the fibre gasket rather than the Wellseal. I can't imagine Wellseal being able to stick around long at those temperatures. I also used red Loctite to anchor the small studs at the front to prevent oil migration up them as threads for one of them do break into the pushrod tunnel.
 
Hmmm, I see Tech Digest suggests Gasgacinch on both sides PLUS on both mating surfaces...another country heard from.

Wish I could get my Mick Hemmings DVD to work but it seems to be on the fritz....
 
If I remember the Hemmings DVD right, he only used the gasket alone under the barrels to the bottom end.

Dave
69S
 
Thanks Dave, I used no gasket there, just some Yamabond. I'm talking about the head gasket - goop, or no goop? Tx. - B
 
Permatex Coppercoat spray. Hylomar also makes a good spray-on gasket dressing. Don't use the tube stuff. You can't possibly get it on in uniform thickness and you don't want that crap squeezing out into the cylinders, pushrod tubes or (God forbid) an oil drain hole.
 
I put a light smear of Wellseal around the pushrod tunnels of a composite head gaset (I don't use copper).
It would be extremely unlikely for Wellseal to block a gallery or seriously ooze out, due to its consistency - unless far too much was applied.
 
Not a product I'm familiar with, Wellseal. Is it available in the U.S.? I never use anything BUT a copper head gasket, but they will seep oil without some sort of sealer.
 
I had an unpleasant experience with a composite gasket long ago- engine vibration worked it soft which meant the bolt torque originally done wasn't sufficient for sealing and it burnt an exhaust valve from sucking air. They may be of better quality now, but I've used nothing but copper ever since.
 
Thanks. My understanding is that composite gaskets may blow, but it takes a bit of doing, whereas copper ones won't but WILL generally leak.

I figure I'm just a toodler-about, a composite gasket should work for me. Thanks - Brian
 
Okay, I got my Hemmings DVD to run for a few more minutes (it will run for a few minutes at a time and then breaks up - on any DVD player - maddening!) and see Mick has a slight preference for a thin coating of Wellseal all over both sides of the gasket. Good enough for me. Being a Yank, I'll use Yamabond, of course....no, wait, I'm gonna give the copper spray a go.
 
BrianK said:
I got my Hemmings DVD to run for a few more minutes (it will run for a few minutes at a time and then breaks up - on any DVD player - maddening!)
Click to expand...

The Hemmings DVD should work in your computer's disc player? Athough it may not work in a US DVD player unless it is PAL TV format compatible (used by most of the world) as the DVDs are not available in NTSC format, as used by the USA & Japan, as far as I know?
 
Yes, it's an NTSC version Les. Worked fine til recently (now that I need it, natch). Now it will only work for a few minutes then gets, um, 'confused.'
 
FWIW - I have a copper head gasket on the diesel engine in my boat. I used the copper spray on it years ago to stop a leak and havent had any trouble with it since. If you plan to use copper, or want to use copper, the spray is worth its weight in copper!
 
ludwig said:
Danno said:
I had an unpleasant experience with a composite gasket long ago- engine vibration worked it soft which meant the bolt torque originally done wasn't sufficient for sealing and it ..
Click to expand...
I am pretty shure it was the other way around : first loose bolts , than faulty head gasket .
Click to expand...
Yeah might have been OK if I had checked at an opportune time, but I was halfway between here and Florida when the valve let go. But the bolts were properly torqued to begin with.
 
BrianK said:
Yes, it's an NTSC version Les. Worked fine til recently (now that I need it, natch). Now it will only work for a few minutes then gets, um, 'confused.'
Click to expand...

Disk dirty?
 
My advice is don't use goop on a composite gasket.

Modern gasket materials are very carefully designed and should not be used with goop. Just make sure the mating surfaces are flat and clean, all bolts and studs have clearence and run down finger tight. Loctite in place the two studs that break through into the pushrod tunnels, stick the head on and torque it up. Warm it up and check the torques, do it again after say 100 miles, 500 miles and 1000 miles.

Works for me every time.

Cash
 
My advice is don't use goop on a composite gasket.

Modern gasket materials are very carefully designed and should not be used with goop. Just make sure the mating surfaces are flat and clean, all bolts and studs have clearence and run down finger tight. Loctite in place the two studs that break through into the pushrod tunnels, stick the head on and torque it up. Warm it up and check the torques, do it again after say 100 miles, 500 miles and 1000 miles.

Works for me every time.
Click to expand...

Same here... except the "Warm it up and check the torques" I let them cool back down... I re-torque them the next morning and recheck valve adjustments when cold.
 
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