having trouble removing clutch operating lockring

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seanalex

seanalex

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Hi, I've been lurking in this forum for quite a while, and have never posted anything yet. I love the amount of great information all of you have, and how helpful the archives have been thus far.

I'm in process of rebuilding a '62 650ss. As of now I'm in the dismantling/cleaning stages, and will be posting some things to the rebuild threads soon.

I've taken apart the gearbox, having read the Mick Hemmings step by step here several times. The one part that's giving me a ton of issue removing is the clutch lockring. I've soaked it in penetrating oil, tried heating it, made a tool (didn't work), bought a non AN special tool from eBay (didn't work), and now going to buy the special tool from AN.

Am I missing something here? It looked to me that in the gearbox's past the lockring has been taken on and off several times. The teeth are mashed up pretty bad looking like a drift, or flathead had been used in the past. Similar to how Mick says to do it in the step by step.

Is this a super common problem? It seems like it's going to need an impact gun or something.

Any comments would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, I love that this forum exists.

-sean

having trouble removing clutch operating lockring

having trouble removing clutch operating lockring
 
First of all, this thread should be under 'Other Nortons' although the problem is common to Commandos as well.
The Moderator may choose to move it.

Secondly, the special tools should do the trick. Try heating the case surrounding the lock nut keeping the heat off the nut itself (as well as you can).

Next step would be an impact wrench.

Good luck with it.

Slick
 
If all else fails, reach for the two essentials: The Big Hammer... then The Cheque Book! Seriously, though, they are a pain if b*ggered as yours is, even the 'correct' tools can be a 'three handed' job. If it's not on the bike I'd oven heat and chill the centre with damp rags, but you still need it stable and steady to wrestle it apart! But there's no point refitting the one you have there IMHO so be brutal with it...
 
Some heat is a good idea as aluminum expands at a different rate than steel and it will help break the threads. Somebody might have put some thread lock on there. As much as it sucks, a good blunt ended punch and a solid whack with a hammer is a good way to break it loose. Yes you are likely to do some damage to the whacked edge but you can dress it up with a file once you get it out. I have also taken old sockets of the correct diameter to fit that ring and then cut away the end of it with a cutoff wheel to leave two tangs sticking out. It makes a pretty good tool for the job. If it is a long socket it gives you more room to grip for alignment.
 
I hammered on mine years ago (1972 - new bike) with a toolkit tire iron and a big rock by the side of the road. Recently put in a new one and got the special tool. Well worth it!
 
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Yes looks to be well beaten in the past. Try a cold chisel and knock with a BFH. The replacement rings at only about $15-$20...no brainer to replace when that badly shot.
 
The correct ring spanner is necessary, you can fabricate one using the outer race of a scrap bearing, grind out the tangs and weld to a piece of square stock
 
Both points already stated... gentle heat around the full circumference of the alloy and the correct tool
 
Screw the cover to a board to hold it - long enough to stand or kneel on. Lots of heat, big punch, big hammer. Most likely, none of the proper tools will work with it chewed up like that. If you still can't get it, you can find used inner covers on eBay or post here on the Wanted forum. Don't reuse it.

Next time, loosen it before removing the cover so it's easier to hang onto.
 
As mentioned, HEAT. About 250F

if some genius loctited it, that will release it.
 
I'll give it a hard go tomorrow morning with a big hammer after heating it up.

I guess my fear was I didn't want to cause more damage.
 
Do you have a heat gun ? Toast up the aluminum area . Drop a big piece of ice on the steel ring. Then attempt to remove it. Brutality may be an option before it cools.
 
Torontonian said:
Do you have a heat gun ? Toast up the aluminum area . Drop a big piece of ice on the steel ring. Then attempt to remove it. Brutality may be an option before it cools.
Click to expand...
Heat it and try using the spanner. The rotational vs cocking force is better.
 
Seekout the Norton service notes( available as a pdf) and follow page 16 ,this gives some good ideas and how to make a tool to undo the steel ring.
 
I like your choice of words there..... Very good for troublesome parts.
 
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