Harbor Freight Lift setup

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htown16

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My new lift just got here today. Have a few questions that maybe someone who has one can answer. Most of the reviews I have read said to ditch the wheel clamp and use a wheel dock. Looking at how flimsy the clamp looks and having a nice heavy homemade wheel dock sitting in the garage gathering dust, no problem.
I'm assuming using the wheel dock rules out using the centerstand as I don't see how the bike can rock back on stand if the front wheel is in the dock. Question then is how to raise the rear end of the bike. Just enough clearance to spin the rear wheel would really be nice as it easy to put the bike in gear and rotate the engine with the plugs out to set initial timing and adjust valves, check primary chain and drive chain tension in different spots and a bunch of other stuff. Second desirable thing would be to get it high enough to get the rear wheel out.
I'm sure someones been through this before so would be glad to hear any suggestions.
 
I have the same HF lift setup. I can get my bike on the center stand pretty easily with the front wheel in the chock by lifting up gently on the grab bar while pushing down on the center stand.
 
I use a small K&L scissor jack under the engine cradle with front wheel in the clamp, or chock, and ties from table to the handlebars. Very stable; I can run the engine and engage the drive train if needed.

I was using a low-profile bottle jack (Harbor Freight) and piece of scrap steel notched to fit the motor cradle, also clamped front wheel and ties. That worked fine for most cleaning/maintenance chores and was cheap.

Lars
 
I went to a local car wrecking yard and they had a pile of jacks, I sorted through them for a while before
finding the right scissor jack with attached handle, flat top and decent sized base. Looked like it had never
been used. $20. I use it with a Forward lift from Napa which came with a good front wheel clamp. I waited
too long to get a lift. Best tool in the shed. Could use two of them.

Also. The lift was painted black, bad color as stuff disappears into the surface, painted it white. Much better.
 
I use a HF Wheel Chock #97841 on my HF Lift Table. I removed the cheesy "tire squeezer" that comes comes on the lift and use it as a paper weight. The #97841 Chock is bolted on the table using four bolts. I use this particular chock because the front part of it is easily removed which allows for front wheel removal when on the stand. The other chock that HF sells, #60392, is cheaper but doesn't work as well and doesn't allow for front wheel removal.

Put your bike on the lift, with the front wheel in the chock and a couple of straps attached to the h-bars for security and then I place a small floor jack and piece of 2x4 under the engine cradle and lift the bike enough to drop the center stand and remove the floor jack. Rear tire can be removed if needed, engine can be started etc . A little bit of a PITA at first but works well.

The #97841 chock can be had for around $36.00 when it goes on sale and you have a 20% off magazine coupon. I originally bought the cheaper chock, #60392, mounted it and immediately returned it because It just doesn't work as well as the one with the removable front plate.
 
99cyclone said:
I have the same HF lift setup. I can get my bike on the center stand pretty easily with the front wheel in the chock by lifting up gently on the grab bar while pushing down on the center stand.
+1
 
I just put mine on the center stand too. I still have the crappy wheel chock, but as long as you tie down the front, it works OK.

Harbor Freight Lift setup
 
concours said:
99cyclone said:
I have the same HF lift setup. I can get my bike on the center stand pretty easily with the front wheel in the chock by lifting up gently on the grab bar while pushing down on the center stand.
+1
The first time I put it on the center stand and was able to work it along back forward into the chock, the steel surface is actually more slippery than you'd think. Since then I've done it several more times, this bike is so light!
You're gonna love your lift.
Harbor Freight Lift setup


This cheap lightweight aluminum race jack from Harbor Freight is really handier than a bottle jack for me, low starting height.
Harbor Freight Lift setup
 
I also use the #97841 on my HF lift. Now I can roll (or ride) my bike right into the chock and it holds it while I strap it in. Then with a scissor jack I can lift it and drop thr center stand. If I am working on the front I rill it on backwards. In order to get my Atlas backwards I cut down the height of the stop on the wheel chock to clear the longer rear fender tip. The only other mod I want to make is to put some grit tape or paint with grit on the platform to reduce the chance for a slick surface. I only wish I bought the lift earlier and if I had the room I'd buy another one too.

Dave
 
I bought this motorcycle jack on ebay. It is a cheapy unit and it worked really well until the jack screw wore out. So I would recommend getting a higher quality one than the one I bought. I ended up rebuilding mine with a high tensile acme rod with a bronze nut.



Harbor Freight Lift setup

Motorcycle jack designed to work with motorcycle lifts
 
The lift itself was 299$ with a coupon. Look for a coupon in Harbor Freights ad in almost any motorcycle oriented magazine. I would suggest you seriously consider having it delivered if you're a one man operation. It added about 100$ on to the cost but the thing weighs about 350# and comes in a wooden crate on a pallet. The delivery driver wheeled it right into my garage for me. The front dock is around 60$ with a coupon. It looks like a scissors jack is also the way to go. Was checking them out on ebay last night, anywhere from 65$ to 300$, for better quality and capacity.
 
I picked mine up at HF with a ford ranger.... they used a fork lift to place it right in the back of the truck. I drove home and easily (with one friend) got it in the garage. It would probably be pretty hard to do by yourself but easy with two.
 
I had more than just vintage (compact, lightweight) bikes to consider, an 850 lb. super long Royal Barge, modern Tiger 1050, etc.
After some measuring, I found the (adjustable) wheel chock needed to be well forward to allow proper weight centralization for all bikes, access to the wheel opening, etc.
Harbor Freight Lift setup


The HF build finish is rather course, but functions well.
Harbor Freight Lift setup


Harbor Freight Lift setup


Harbor Freight Lift setup
 
dragonfly said:
Damn it! After reading this thread, looks like I'm heading for HF. What's a ballpark retail on this set-up?


There is a "super coup" coupon for $299 in the back of every motorcycle magazine.
 
concours said:
I had more than just vintage (compact, lightweight) bikes to consider, an 850 lb. super long Royal Barge, modern Tiger 1050, etc.
After some measuring, I found the (adjustable) wheel chock needed to be well forward to allow proper weight centralization for all bikes, access to the wheel opening, etc.
Harbor Freight Lift setup

You didn't install the cross bar?
 
swooshdave said:
concours said:
I had more than just vintage (compact, lightweight) bikes to consider, an 850 lb. super long Royal Barge, modern Tiger 1050, etc.
After some measuring, I found the (adjustable) wheel chock needed to be well forward to allow proper weight centralization for all bikes, access to the wheel opening, etc.
Harbor Freight Lift setup

You didn't install the cross bar?

No, that cross bar is designed for free standing usage of the chock on the floor, rubber feet on the bottom, and to tie the bike to the ends. Bolted to the table with four M8 socket head flat heads countersunk is much stronger than the orig design. Plus, lopping off 12" from the back allowed more room for the bike to be jacked up under the engine, tools slid across, etc. Bolted the second one on my small flatbed trailer in the same fashion.
 
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