Gratuitous Amal pic

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Nellie_Rocks

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Feb 2, 2012
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I've been working on my primary case, but while I had parts off the bike apart, I couldn't help but start tearing into other parts, like ya do ...

I took the Amal's off and spent two wonderful days stripping them down, cleaning, replacing and rebuilding them. Raber's (thanks Bob!) provided the new parts and some very welcome advice. I've got them back on the bike and will be completing the 'project' this weekend (hopefully).

Gratuitous Amal pic


I know I know a damn site more about carburetors now than ever before and I'm looking forward to dialing them in. Check this link out for a very straight forward explanation of Amal's - http://www.jba.bc.ca/Bushmans%20Carb%20Tuning.html - very, very helpful

No real purpose to the post, just a little self indulgence in having fun and learning ...
 
Nice to see cleaned Amals before some road time on them : )
To fine tune the float level after the crude measuring to get running is done, fiddle level till best pilot screw idle occurs close to the ideal designed fuel level of 1.5 turns out. Yes its tedious but then what ain't on a Commando to do it right as can be, for how ever long that lasts.
 
The great thing about taking stuff apart is that it gives you the true picture of how it all works and why (obvious I know but ...)

So, when it comes to dialing it all in, having an image in mind of how it all fits together and the effect of changes you make, should make the whole process more successful. Probably.
 
Nice pic and good clean up.
Lunmad has some great vids for sure on plenty of stuff as well as amals, pure entertainment
 
I like the matte finish, till its time to clean off the gasoline varnish grime embedded. I got about a year worth of shiny-ness after clear spray but time temp and solvents return them to initial used vintage appearance. I gave up and just now and then wire toothbrush the highlights and contours for my own brief glances - till time again to get intimate.
 
I polished my float bowls until they looked like chrome. People didn't believe they weren't plated when I showed them, but they didn't last long, now they look like the rest of it. At least they're clean.

Dave
69S
 
Nice work, and I am glad to see you have some insulators on the manifolds. You may want to buy some new cables, when they get a bit ratty it is hard to get the carbs properly syncronised. There are some good examples of getting them in sync on this site, aside from doing the bushman's trick to get the idle circuit working properly you need to tune, as Hobot said the fuel levels and of course the sync of the slides. I made up some new plugs for the float bowls with hose nipples on them, this allows the visual actual height of the fuel to be monitored and adjusted to between 4.3 ~ 6.4mm below the flange joint of the bowl. Then your idle screws will be nominally at 1 1/2 turns out.

Cheers Richard
 
Hey Nelli_Rocks,
I see you have fitted Allen head screws to the bowls, fit them to the tops
as well, then you can remove the slides with out unbolting the carbs.
Block that old Air slide adjuster as well.
AC.
 
Yes an almost universal done improvement. Proper tune mean you should have to tickle a bit to start when cold but not usually once warmed. Tickling should not flood carbs as once the pilot mix chamber filled excess spills on bike not into manifold to inhale. My Amals tend to loosen their screws and so far found some RTV works best to hold tight but release better than loctite, which can hold so tight it easy to bugger the screw heads removing with the odd angles a couple screws require to engage. I liked the neat Choke lever and left that and cables on for a long time just for my viewing pleasure.
 
I'm not sure my air lever does anything for starting, but I use it just in case. I did leave it on once and had no instant response, otherwise seemed to run OK.

Dave
69S
 
speirmoor said:
Can you remove the choke altogether like that and blank off the cable hole?
Click to expand...

A lot of people say yes to this, but then I bet they don't start their Commandos on damp 40 F degree days like I do. My bike starts with one kick with full choke but won't even budge without it. Often when I ride to work the bike sits all day and doesn't require choke to start it again on those 60 degree afternoons, but those early mornings I wouldn't want to be without it!

Russ
 
speirmoor said:
Can you remove the choke altogether like that and blank off the cable hole?
Click to expand...

I've done this on every Brit I've ever owned, so I wouldn't know if the air slides help or not :roll:
 
rvich said:
speirmoor said:
A lot of people say yes to this, but then I bet they don't start their Commandos on damp 40 F degree days like I do.
Russ
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

I use the choke as well. It's a one-kicker cold (w/choke) or warm (without). I gradually turn the choke to fully open during the first couple minutes of riding. Of course this is at ~45-55 degrees F.

BTW, Nellie_Rocks, did you get those nifty thumb screws at Rabers as well? I's be interested in a set but oddly enough I haven't put a screwdriver to my Amals in over 1,000 miles.
 
Aaron:

Yes, the PO (or PO, PO's) had used a variety of fasteners, even a cable tie, to secure both the carburetor tops and float bowls. I asked Bob Raber for replacements and this is what he gave me.

Can't say enough about Raber's - great bunch of guys who are more than happy to spread the Norton love (and BSA, Triumph, etc.)

Bob also owns five Commandos and seems to be able to recite part numbers at will ....

- Nells
 
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