Got a big dent, I gotta pull it

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jimbo

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I have a roadster tank that has a big dent in its top area. I need to pull it, and the paint is pretty much gone so that messing it up is not a problem. It seems fuel tank steel is heavier than automotive panels, so I need something that is heavier duty. Any ideas?
 
I managed to squeeze a friction clamp into the tank, and levering against the underside (below the fuel filler) I was able to pop my dent.

Got a big dent, I gotta pull it


The clamp is not shown in the correct position - it actually goes right in the tank, so you can lever against the dent (poor pic).
 
I had great success taking a number of dents out of a Commando tank, some deep, some shallow. I soldered the head of a bolt to the tank, and used a home built puller to pull the dents. Interestingly enough, when the material reached close to original level, the soldered head would pop off the tank. It took a number of applications, working around the dent, then the center, to get each one level.

In hindsight, I think I would go with silver solder, use as many bolts as needed for each dent, and spend more time pulling and less time soldering.

I am sure you could do the same with a Tig or Mig. I just didn't want to compromise the tank with any additional stress, errant holes, and grinding.

When I started, the tank was ready for the scrap metal bin. When I finished it needed a minimum skim of filler before painting.

Stephen Hill
 
might try the solder trick, I think the dent is too far away from the filler hole to be able to pry on it.
 
I'm hoping Santy Claws is going to bring me a hot glue/peg puller. Not sure if it would work on a gas tank, but I have some other dents to pull on the vehicles.
 
I had a dent knocked out of my alloy tank.

The guy cut a hole in the bottom of the tank, knocked out the dent from inside then welded up the hole.
 
How big is the dent, and how deep is it ?
If the paint is cactus, some dents can be shrunk out, using the CAREFUL application of heat, and either a damp rag or some dry ice, depending on the severity of the dent.
NOTE that heat and petrol tanks can be a dangerous combination.

I've also soldered some (many) tags onto the area of a larger dent, and used a slide hammer to gently pull everything back into shape - learn't that one at tech classes. After, you unsolder the tags, and can file finish the surface, the solder should come off completely. For not too deep a dent, this can work well.

A really large dent can be hammered out by cutting a hole in the base of the tank, as mentioned above.
For really deep or bad dents, this is about the only way.
After, you oxy the piece removed back into the base.
Only attempt this if your oxy skills are good, and all the petrol is GONE.
I prefer to give this to guys that do it regularly, it needs to be leakproof.
And it can take quite some skill to get the required shape back ...
 
Not real deep, but fairly widespread and along an abrupt transition (to the top of the tank).
Got a big dent, I gotta pull it

I like the idea of soldered bolts in conjunction with a slide hammer, and/or pull against the bolts whilst tapping around the periphery of the dent.

BTW, to address the legitimate fear of residual petrol fumes around an open flame, use a steel flex-hose from a car's exhaust routed into the tank, and leave engine idling during the operation. This will keep the tank full of oxygen-free exhaust gas. An older, carbureted engine is the best route, as it'll usually be a bit on the rich side, thus ensuring every last bit of oxygen has already been consumed. 'Used this many times, and still have all fingers and eyeballs...

Nathan
 
If you can get the bladder out of an old soccer ball or football, you can connect it up to a bicycle pump, work it into the tank and inflate the bladder to drive the dent outward... You get the idea... simple right??
 
o0norton0o said:
If you can get the bladder out of an old soccer ball or football, you can connect it up to a bicycle pump, work it into the tank and inflate the bladder to drive the dent outward... You get the idea... simple right??
that's interesting,just might work, Is that the Tom Brady dent removal system? :mrgreen:
 
Just be careful, very careful, that the bladder pushes out in the right area. !!

I've also heard variations on this, including just using compressed air.
I think the results afterwards were described as "butterfly wings".
Ooops, too much....

Any sharp creases or stretch marks usually take some serious hammering to get out,
usually involving a dolly underneath to hammer onto.
Unless you can get something in through the fuel cap under that area,
that might take some work to get all good again....
 
Just gotta get it close to the original shape, the rest is what good body filler is for. This is an old shelved tank that needs work , there is no big hurry. :?
 
These stud guns seem pretty popular and are not that expensive.

https://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/U ... swodCAUKYw

It looks like it may be safer than open flames around fuel vapors. I have also seen some fuel tank cleaning solutions that are made specifically to remove fuel residue so repairs can be made. Have not tried either so I can not speak from experience..

Pete
 
A tip from my local radiator shop was to use Dawn to remove the old dry fuel from the tank. I think my tank was full when it was left to sit for 30 years so it took several flushes, but It worked like a charm.
 
I bought a 68 Bonneville and the po used the compressed air method to pull out some dents, it didn't work to well it spread the sides of the tank. By the time he pulled the sides of the tank together he ended up with more bondo in the tank using this method than if he would have filled the dents with bondo to start with.

Mark
 
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