gonna change my clutch cable

the last time i did that was on my '63 ducati (in '65).
just thought i check here and see if there's any 'gotchas'' when doing it on my '70 commando.
thx,
goo

Don't let the clutch release arm fall down and then nothing will work right. Item 33 here http://www.oldbritts.com/1971_g7.html

You may have to experiment with the adjustment stud in the clutch adjuster screw item 49 here http://www.oldbritts.com/1971_g8.html

The book says to leave a half turn or so, I forget, but with mine I can only let it off about 1/8 - 1/4 turn from touching. Otherwise the clutch doesn't work. It depends on your clutch pack height and how much clearance you have from the loaded clutch pack to the clutch basket circlip item 54 as the last picture.

Don't get discouraged. It takes a bit of finesse to adjust it right but when it's right, you can feel the lever break over at about 3/4 of the way to the handle and then it's like a compound bow, it breaks over and is easy to hold.

Dog

can i do it through the small cover (item 20)?

Yes, and you can reach the lever from the inspection hole in the gearbox too. Actually if you straddle the bike, you can do both and feel what's going on, but it can help to have someone else help. Turn the adjuster and feel the lever at the same time. Read the instructions in the Riders Handbook, it's explained really good there. Make sure you tighten down the adjuster nut while holding the brake and if your clutch is as sensitive as mine, it may take a few tries to get it right, I don't think there's a torque setting on the nut, but don't let it get loose. I actually had one of the adjusters get a stress fracture in it once, but I think it was defective. It gave me a fit in the clutch for a while, mine is real close tolerance for some reason.

Make sure the cable is loosened like the instructions say too, otherwise, the cable affects the adjustment. Nothing wrong with the Norton clutch. It works like advertized if set up right.

Dog

>>The book says to leave a half turn or so, I forget, but with mine I can only let it off about 1/8 - 1/4 turn from touching. Otherwise the clutch doesn't work. It depends on your clutch pack height and how much clearance you have from the loaded clutch pack to the clutch basket circlip item 54 as the last picture.<<

I was in my clutch last week and although the manual calls for a full 360 degree turn out after screw touchs clutch actuator rod I only did a 1/2 turn and definitely wasn't good. Couldn't feel it role over the inflection point and become easy when fully pulled.
Then I adjusted it full turn out and works great. Two finger pull.
I suspect the stack height is part of what is happening and depending on the wear of the plates other bikes may need a different amount of backing off of adjuster. I suggest starting with factory setting. Luckily easy to adjust.

Bob

I've got quite a bit of space between my clutch pack height and the large circlip, that's what makes mine want very little slop in the rod to adjuster. If I could find a spacer to put in the clutch or under the circlip it would probably work more like the instructions.

I got the Old Brits shim pack kit, but that was for the Barnett plates and didn't do anything for my original setup. I suppose I could buy new fiber plates and see if that helped, but my parts all measure at spec.

Dave
69S

DogT said:

Don't let the clutch release arm fall down and then nothing will work right. Item 33 here http://www.oldbritts.com/1971_g7.html

Click to expand...

the clutch release arm is the part that the lower end of the cable attaches to, right.
i'm thinking i would tyie a bit of string to it first.

The release arm shouldn't fall out of position unless the clutch adjuster screw has been slackened off by a significant amount.

Edit: Tying string around it won't stop it dropping.

Technically, it doesn't actually drop out of the assembly. What happens is that the inner end of the lifter becomes displaced from its normal operating position on the lifter ball bearing.

Undue the clutch lever on the handle bars and release the cable. This will give the play needed to remove the cable from the release arm without slacking the clutch adjuster screw. Reverse to install new cable verifying that the release arm lines up nicely with the cable orifice in the cover. Once the cable is installed you can then adjust the clutch at the clutch adjusting screw and in conjunction with the lever adjuster.

thanks for all the goo dinputs, gents.

i've got a single mikuni (34mm) comming and will replace the throttle and clutch cables at the same time.