Gear Shift Return Spring

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Aug 5, 2017
Messages
1,401
Country flag
Hi Gents
Can someone please confirm what clearance is required between the gearshift return spring & the gearchange pawl..
I do remember reading somewhere that the spring mustn't be touching the pawl & like wise excessive clearance needs to be avoided....
So what is the required clearance please??

Thank you
 
We used to call that clearance a CH or even an RCH. So really , not too scientific, but it's important that the spring doesn't touch the pawl. I'm guessing that repeating this system of measurement will send many younger people directly into therapy. "Oh, Doc, I was exposed to some very unfriendly language. I need to decompress and purge the bad vibes."
 
I noticed that the old brits instructions use the gear shift ratchet/return spring 04-0038 but on the Andover Norton site they only offer 04-0479 and RGM offer both option listed as thick and thin, can somebody please tell me which one is the best option and why there are two options for doing what I see is the same job.
 
I noticed that the old brits instructions use the gear shift ratchet/return spring 04-0038 but on the Andover Norton site they only offer 04-0479 and RGM offer both option listed as thick and thin, can somebody please tell me which one is the best option and why there are two options for doing what I see is the same job.


It isn't an option. The ratchet mechanism uses both springs and not for the same job. 04-0038 and 04-0479, however, they are drawn on different diagrams.
 
Last edited:
I noticed that the old brits instructions use the gear shift ratchet/return spring 04-0038 but on the Andover Norton site they only offer 04-0479 and RGM offer both option listed as thick and thin, can somebody please tell me which one is the best option and why there are two options for doing what I see is the same job.
The spring can break, not happened to me , but others on the Forum can attest to that and then the party is delayed. I've also seen a friend- owner with the spring upside down so we had to fix that boo-boo. So the thicker one offered might be an effort to correct possible past breakages. First I've heard of this thicker (stronger ? ) one.
 
The spring can break, not happened to me , but others on the Forum can attest to that and then the party is delayed. I've also seen a friend- owner with the spring upside down so we had to fix that boo-boo. So the thicker one offered might be an effort to correct possible past breakages. First I've heard of this thicker (stronger ? ) one.
I'm referring to the hairpin spring which can break after a lot of mileage. The pawl one.
 
Yes they can break. Happened to me before the New York Rally at Sampson State Park in Romulus NY, a number of years ago. Delayed me a bit. I recall there should be about 005" clearance between upper and lower legs and the Pawl.
Cheers,
Tom
 
they wear.
Gear Shift Return Spring
 
You think replacing the shifter return spring on our bikes is bad, try doing it on a modern Duc... I did that a couple weeks ago and it is not so fun. But they do have a special CH measurement tool - but that is pricey and using a very much thicker one as an approximation is just as good with trial and error.
 
It isn't an option. The ratchet mechanism uses both springs and not for the same job. 04-0038 and 04-0479, however, they are drawn on different diagrams.

Thanks, its clear now, doh....
 
Not only can the hairpin springs wear and break, they can be bent by ham-fisted owners trying to "fix" them.

Also, MANY transmissions I've encountered in restoration donor bikes have had excessive moisture in them, resulting in excessive RUST, which invariably turns the hairpins (or at least the bottom leg of them) to mush.
 
Not only can the hairpin springs wear and break, they can be bent by ham-fisted owners trying to "fix" them.

Also, MANY transmissions I've encountered in restoration donor bikes have had excessive moisture in them, resulting in excessive RUST, which invariably turns the hairpins (or at least the bottom leg of them) to mush.
The whole outer cover working bits n' pieces are starved for lube IMO.
Yes , I've opened up covers to see rust everywhere on the steel bits including nuts.
I'm thinking grease now. Open up the 06-5517 inspection cover. Smear grease all over the steel bits using a flashlight and finger feel. Especially the spring contact points and whilst you're in there the cable nipple too.
I'll be doing that tonight after reading this thread and every future winter maintenance down time.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top