Gear Puller & Other Secial Tools.

T95 · Jan 21, 2011

Just hit a wall with pulling apart the 71 when I realized I need to pull both primary covers. I have now read through this section of the manual and realize I will need both a puller for the engine sprocket and the clutch diaphragm compressor. I am going to make or improvise something for both. The diaphragm tool is easy enough to make.

I am looking for confirmation on the following bolt sizes and thread for:

The clutch diaphragm center bolt

Engine sprocket puller, what is the size and thread of the two bolts that screw into the gear. Also is their a decent alternative to a bolt in puller, say a universal three jaw puller?

Contact breaker cam - Bolt and thread size would be helpful to make a slide hammer.

Finally are there and other special tools for engine or gear box servicing?

G

L.A.B. · Jan 21, 2011

T95 said:
I am looking for confirmation on the following bolt sizes and thread for:

The clutch diaphragm center bolt

1/2 UNF.

T95 said:
Engine sprocket puller, what is the size and thread of the two bolts that screw into the gear.

5/16 UNF.

T95 said:
Contact breaker cam - Bolt and thread size would be helpful to make a slide hammer.

Extractor thread is 5/16 UNF.

T95 said:
Finally are there and other special tools for engine or gear box servicing?

http://www.andover-norton.co.uk/SI%20Se ... 0Tools.htm

maylar · Jan 21, 2011

I've never found 2 or 3 jaw puller that was up to the task. The crankshaft sprocket can be on there TIGHT. My home made puller was a 1/2" thick chunk of steel and I've bent it. I now use a "universal" steering wheel puller, available at auto parts stores.

My Clutch spring compressor is fabricated from a 3" cast iron pipe cap and a grade 8 1/2-20 bolt.

Hobot · Jan 21, 2011

A steering wheel crow foot puller can usually get off a tight crank sprocket but it will strain it I've found. I torque puller on to the max then heat and heat then give a little rap and usually pops right off. I bit bullet and got all the the special pullers which makes tasks more pleasant. The only special puller you really need is the 3 jaw one for the TS pinon gear. A DIY metal bowl of right size for clutch spring with along enough 1/2 bolt and couple nuts and spacer can work fine.
But the welded up version is worthwhile.

I send tool out now and then as try to avoid ever needing them very often.

batrider · Jan 21, 2011

I have the proper Norton tool but that sprocket is on there good. It's a heavy chunk of steel with 3 bolts in it. Still need to give a gentle whack with a large hammer when tightened up but it will come off. Clutch spring compressor... do you like canned tuna? Tuna can or nice PVC coupling with bolt and a couple nuts (one to keep tool together after use).

Hobot · Jan 21, 2011

Oh brother do I know what you mean, so much so i will never again give the faintest tap until I've heated sprocket almost to smoking, ever again as usually just a waster to effort til the thermal waves have time to work. I've bent
a mere steering wheel puller on pre-Peel almost twisting the puller bolt apart.
This hi heat and hard bashing really put a damper on my mood until I change moods
by realizing I'm just hick in a shed so going at it in pissed off fighting mood is OK to get'r done. Some things can be so fused on they are damaged anyway so I torch em off and bite Norton bullet to spend on new item. Air impact has
saved me too, like on fork caps, had to haul to a shop with big enough socket.
Slow torque by breaker bar was just wiping off the nut corners. Ugh.

bwolfie · Jan 21, 2011

I have two versions of the clutch spring compressor for sale. Tha real andover part and ones that I manufacture out of a 4" pvc cap. PM me if interested.

lcrken · Jan 21, 2011

Like hobot said, the really difficult one is the timing side pinion gear. I have managed to pry them off with a couple carefully bent screwdrivers, but I'd really recommend the proper tool instead. It works so much better.

Ken

batrider · Jan 21, 2011

One of those girls you just have to be firm with.

T95 · Jan 21, 2011

L.A.B. said:
T95 said:

I am looking for confirmation on the following bolt sizes and thread for:

1/2 UNF.

5/16 UNF.

Extractor thread is 5/16 UNF.

T95 said:

Finally are there and other special tools for engine or gear box servicing?

Click to expand...

http://www.andover-norton.co.uk/SI%20Se ... 0Tools.htm

Click to expand...

Thanks L.A.B.,

I have seen that Andover tool list before. I know the importance of good tools, but I am trying to minimize my tool purchases if possible. I am vary interested in finding serviceable DIY alternatives.

T95 · Jan 21, 2011

maylar said:
I've never found 2 or 3 jaw puller that was up to the task. The crankshaft sprocket can be on there TIGHT. My home made puller was a 1/2" thick chunk of steel and I've bent it. I now use a "universal" steering wheel puller, available at auto parts stores.

My Clutch spring compressor is fabricated from a 3" cast iron pipe cap and a grade 8 1/2-20 bolt.

Thanks, I have a steering wheel puller in my box; I’ll check it out and see if it’s up to the task. Dam, if you’re telling me you bent a puller that was 1/2' thick this sprocket removal sounds like trouble.

I think the spring compressors is going to be the easier of the tools to fabricate.

T95 · Jan 21, 2011

hobot said:
This hi heat and hard bashing really put a damper on my mood until I change moods
by realizing I'm just hick in a shed so going at it in pissed off fighting mood is OK to get'r done. Some things can be so fused on they are damaged anyway so I torch em off and bite Norton bullet to spend on new item. Air impact has
saved me too, like on fork caps, had to haul to a shop with big enough socket.

Hobot, you do love your torch! Heat and hammers noted! That amount of heat must affect the hardening of the sprocket in some negative way.
I appreciate you priming me to get pissed. Now that I know this sprocket is not going to be an easy task hopefully I can pace myself and change my mood before going postal.

DogT · Jan 21, 2011

You can make a decent crank sprocket puller if you have some hand tools and some metal. The pinion gear tool you either really need to have or borrow. As hobot, I could lend. The contact breaker cam is just a taper fit and can be knocked off with some judicious tapping on the side with turning. It does get tight, but will eventually come off. Some heat may help.

Other tools you will need is a short ended Allen wrench for the Allen bolts on the manifolds. Just grind one down. Probably will need a 9/16" narrow open end for the bottom shock nut under the chain guard. That too will have to be ground down so you can get it in there.

GB, mostly the 1/4 Whitworth socket and ring spanner. Most everything else can be handled with standard sizes, plus some metric.

Actually, don't I remember someone used the holes in the rear part of the footpegs to make a crank puller, or am I thinking of something else?

Dave
69S

maylar · Jan 22, 2011

You can make a decent crank sprocket puller if you have some hand tools and some metal.

Yup, I made one like that. Bent it on my brother's 750.

Something like this works for me now:
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-45000-Steer ... B0002SRDSM

Other tools you will need is a short ended Allen wrench for the Allen bolts on the manifolds. Just grind one down.

Yup. And, if you can find one or fabricate one, a 5/16 Allen with a slightly LONGER "short" end for that silly center bolt in the middle of the head steady.

Probably will need a 9/16" narrow open end for the bottom shock nut under the chain guard. That too will have to be ground down so you can get it in there.

The original open end 9/16 spanner that came in my Norton's toolkit is thin enough to get that. It also works for the nut under the fork tube chrome top nut.

1/4 Whit with ground down box side for the #2 head nut in the back of the cylinders is another must-have.

rvich · Jan 22, 2011

My cluth tool is a burned out 5 inch holes saw. I laid the teeth on a belt sander to flaten them a bit and put a wrap of electrical tape over them so that it has the finished look of a pro tool. It can be difficult to find a 1/2 - 20 bolt with enough thread. So I took one, cut the head off and ran 1/2 - 13 thread from the other end and use that to tension it. I use the same bolt for pulling the spindle in the swingarm.

For the puller I found it was easier for me to take a solid bar of steel and drill two holes in it for the 5/16 bolts in the sprocket and I just let the bar rest across the end of the crank. I put some pressure on the bolts, alternating to keep the bar parallel to the sprocket and when they are good and tight I give it a tap with a hammer. So far, it has worked like a charm.

The pinion puller is harder. And they are not particularly cheap. 65 bucks at Walridge. I have an old slide hammer here that has a three prong puller that tensions with a large nut. I just reground the prongs to fit. Sadly I see that the same slide hammer is now about 60 bucks at Harbor Freight. (Even cheap Chinese stuff is getting expensive these days!)
http://www.harborfreight.com/17-piece-h ... -5223.html
It looks to me like that piece on the far right in the photo would work to pull the sprocket!

There are lots of them listed on Ebay, most over priced but one there now at 0.99...
http://cgi.ebay.com/HEAVY-DUTY-SLIDE-HA ... 588c41c8bd

Russ

DogT · Jan 22, 2011

Here's the thread on the foot peg puller. He doesn't really explain it much though. At least it's another thread on pulling the sprocket.
post46631.html?hilit=foot%20peg%20puller#p46631

Dave
69S

T95 · Jan 22, 2011

DogT said:
Here's the thread on the foot peg puller. He doesn't really explain it much though. At least it's another thread on pulling the sprocket.
post46631.html?hilit=foot%20peg%20puller#p46631
Dave
69S

Dave,
He cant be just using the metal plates for the foot rest and muffler? If guys are twisting 1/2 plate, I doubt it. I would think the Z-Plate is being incorporated somehow.
The associated thread is a reminder that this could be a tough & tedious undertaking!
Thanks
G

DogT · Jan 22, 2011

I think what he is doing is using the end of the foot peg with the 3 holes in it that attach to the z-plate. 2 of the holes line up with the crank sprocket threads. Don't know how he is having a center bolt to tighten against the crank. Haven't figured that out. Maybe if you PM him, he can explain.

For general information, I found it real nice to have a set of the long handled Allen keys. The 1/4" one can reach between the carbs for those center Allen bolts into the head and stick out past the carbs where you can use the short end.

Dave
69S

T95 · Jan 25, 2011

So I tackled the removal of the primary side yesterday. I sourced a tuna can, some 1/2" unf threaded rod and three nuts, to assemble a clutch compressor. I also got a couple of 5/16 unf bolts to use in my steering wheel puller for the primary gear. I had a tasty tuna sandwich and headed out to get things started. I pulled the cover and was pleasantly surprised how clean the inside of the case was, in fact it was brilliant and the first shinny thing I have seen on my Ruster. The surprise was the case had been welded up around one of the stator studs, and only two of the three mounting studs were in place.
I decided to tackle the primary gear first. The bolts I bought were to short, but the kit luckily had a pair of 5/16. So I put the puller in place, took some turns on the center bolt until it was tight , gave the gear two good wacks with my ball pen and off she came. I was prepared to be at this task for hour after reading severl horror stories from the group.
Thanks for the tip on using a steering wheel puller!

I was really excited to do the funkey tuna can thing, I thought this was the best thip ever!. It only took about 30 mins to fabricate the puller. I set it up and had to adjust several times. UnforTUNAtely, I guess "They don't make em like they use too". The can started to deform then finally crush.
So now I am looking for anything I can get a 1/2" bolt through and found an old electrical single gang box. It had a one 1/2" knockout that was luckily centered on the back. I repeated the the above sequence of adjusting and tightened and got the cir-clip free. Thanks for the tip on using an electrical, even though I am sure you meant a round one.
FYI' if your looking to fabricate a compressor tool, 1/2" fully threaded tap bolts are scarce but threaded rod is easily sourced. I paid $6.00 for three feet, $.90 for three nuts and $2.50 for a can of tuna. At least the tuna was tasty. If the washer under the nut was as large as the circumference of the can it would of had a chance. I am going with the PVC version next time!
Thanks for all the tips!!

Hobot · Jan 25, 2011

Hehe, I know what ya mean opening up old Nortons, like a country gal taking off her jeans to reveal lovely lacy under wear!

Happy to hear no trauma like Ms Peel put me through about each step of the way, every fastener, case parting and shaft and race pulling to point welding rod needed to suck some out, ridiculous levels of escalating efforts I hope never to face again.

Gear Puller & Other Secial Tools.

T95

L.A.B.

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maylar

Hobot

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Hobot

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lcrken

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