Gasp! Another silly newbie joins the fold...

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If I was you I would take the addvice & by a factory manual, I have all three, the Hanes (ok ) even a rare old Chittons hard back and the factory manual. It's really the clearest and best one + you really do need MKiii specific stuff. And buy the whitworth sockets and wrenches. You will need them as soon as you get inside anything & even some stuff on the frame if I remember correctly. You don't have to buy high $ stuff. Don't worry about doing the Layshaft bearing, I mean DO do it before ridding any distance but it's not hard to do. I did mine with the trans still in the bike all from the right side. You don't have to dismantle the primary side unless your going to do more than just replace that bearing. And I would bet $ it has not been done so DO it. Mine had been replaced but the existing bearing was also worn so I was glad I did. You will hear horror stories from guys + gals who went down hard came close. Nice bike, I like those colors too. Good luck with the tank, I think I would start looking for a new one, rust is not good in the carbs and so far we've all had mixed results coating them due to the ethenol crap.
 
Before you start buying tanks due to rust, look into.... http://www.gastankrenu.com/index.htm. I had them do both my Roadster and Interstate tanks. They have two methods. One that bakes on and another that air dries. They blast the insides and then treat them. Talk to them about it so I don't mislead you on some part of the procedure. I got both done for around 350.00. The store that did mine guaranteed the work. This was last summer and I haven't seen any issues up to now, but then it's put to bed and too damn cold to go look at it. A gentleman from the Viking Chapter of the AMCA referred me. They swear by these guys.
 
bugnbox said:
I have a Haynes manual and the parts catalog and a decent set of tools from my car crafting... can you help me with a list of special bits I will need tool wise? What are the Whitworth tools all about? I have heard mention of them a few times...Im assuming they are of some difference from normal stuff?
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The tools I have found to be essential are a clutch spring compressor, a Norton exhaust nut wrench and a really good, heavy duty, gear puller for the primary drive gear. I have a few Whitworth wrenches that I consider indispensable. These are a 5/16 BS box end and a 5/16 BS socket wrenches. Mine are both ground down for head bolt clearance. The rest pretty much interchange with SAE wrench sizes. I am a little rusty on my MKIII construction but on my 750, you need a cut down allen wrench to access the bolts that hold the head steady to the head. That's about it in the special tool department.

I stand corrected. You can pull the lay shaft bearing without pulling the primary drive. It is easier to access if you have the main shaft out and it's easier to heat the transmission case to get the offending bearing out but not imposable. I also got to thinking last night and remembering my MKIII anatomy. The Primary drive is not the piece of cake to remove that the non-electric start models are. They have a lot more things going on in there with the starter, shift linkage and the primary drive chain tensioner.
 
Hold on, Newbie. NO grabbing the tools. Just because you now have the neatest bike on the planet, you still have to BUY them.
 
Of course...BUY them...yeah, yeah, that is what I meant.

What was your address again?
 
by bugnbox » Sun Jan 02, 2011 7:17 am

Of course...BUY them...yeah, yeah, that is what I meant.

What was your address again?
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Current address:

General Population
Folsom State Prision
Folsom, Ca

Just ask for Bruno's bitch.
 
Diablouph said:
What was your address again?
Click to expand...



Current address:

General Population
Folsom State Prision
Folsom, Ca

Just ask for Bruno's bitch.[/quote]

spitting coffee through nose..................
 
No kidding, so does Bruno.


This should be quite an education for the Newbie. Look where this thread has gone. 5 pages and building. I would guess 5 or 6 topic changes. I'm just waiting for it to morph into wet sumping.
 
Wet sumping?

I thought they gave it to you dry in prison!


While walking bowlegged might be handy for riding a Boss Hoss or something...I think the Commando requires a tighter rear structure.

I guess I will use real money for the tools...but thanks for the offer just the same!


On to the spark situation... worthwhile to swap to something electronic?
 
By the way, Bugnbox, when you bike sits for a while, does the oil tend to leak out of the tank and into the bottom of the engine? You might want to check with some of the guys on the forum about their thoughts on how to fix it.
 
bugnbox said:
Wet sumping?

On to the spark situation... worthwhile to swap to something electronic?
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Sit back with a six-pack, type "wet sumping" into the search function, and you will be amazed. I fall into the camp that installed the CNW wet sumping valve and never looked back, but there is considerable debate on this topic.

Get it running on the points first and then think about the electronic ignition. Boyer and Sparx are your choices, and you will find plenty of opinions regarding both on this site. I've inherited a Boyer from the previous owner of my '74 Commando, and I have never had a problem with it.
 
bugnbox said:
Wet sumping?

I thought they gave it to you dry in prison!


While walking bowlegged might be handy for riding a Boss Hoss or something...I think the Commando requires a tighter rear structure.

I guess I will use real money for the tools...but thanks for the offer just the same!


On to the spark situation... worthwhile to swap to something electronic?
Click to expand...

LMGDAO. So very wrong..
 
LMGDAO. So very wrong..
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I aim to please...

I was hovering on the side cover on ebay and a nice NOS front fender...but backed off when the prices seemed to get silly.
Do these side covers really go for over $150?. I saw a "new" one for around $90...any experience with the re-pop stuff?

I have a meeting in the morning with the original owner of the bike...he has some goodies for me...I cant wait !!
 
150 probably isn't out of line for ebay. The fender was nuts at 235.00. I don't know about the mk3 side covers, but the oil tank side cover I bought as a repop was physically smaller than an original, but the battery side was an acceptable copy. I think repops are hit and miss depending on where vendors can get things made for the right price. If you don't mind repop front fenders there is one on ebay now from the UK for an mk3 and the price is something in the ballparks of 70 bucks. Looks like a nice fender. If it was a four hole, I'd buy it.
 
britbike220 said:
150 probably isn't out of line for ebay. The fender was nuts at 235.00. I don't know about the mk3 side covers, but the oil tank side cover I bought as a repop was physically smaller than an original, but the battery side was an acceptable copy. I think repops are hit and miss depending on where vendors can get things made for the right price. If you don't mind repop front fenders there is one on ebay now from the UK for an mk3 and the price is something in the ballparks of 70 bucks. Looks like a nice fender. If it was a four hole, I'd buy it.
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People on eBay are insane. I nearly crapped myself when I found myself being the idiot and dumping $1100 on my tank and sidecovers. Yikes.

-Jordan
 
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