Gasp! Another silly newbie joins the fold...

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Lovely find at a good price plus the owner who loved it for extra flavor. No way can you bring this dream machine up to the specs you show as example to reach w/o 1000 hours and many 1000's money. The finishes are way beyond mere polish buffing, files and course sandpaper and acid baths first. Side cover costs like $150 from vendors but keep eye on ebay for better price. Ebay may be your long term side hobby for how ever long it takes. Also worth meeting the various main vendors that we depend on for parts advise and special services. Any thing you see on finest examples always cost more than when new, usually way more. It it wasn't so do ya think the loving owner would have let it get to this state or willing to part with a piece of him? I've never seen such nice clean brake rotors btw.

Alas masters cylinder and calipers may look like gas tank inside. Check fluid level each gas stop to make sure no hidden leaks that can cut brake one good use to nothing next instant.

Starters can be re build back to wimpy factory function but there's upgrades to make it work great, expect for the engagement mechanism.

I used JBW to rebuild a tail light shell but your may be better to toss for new.

Clocks likely best to just send to shop as credit towards new ones.

The hardest single item for me to send on is a messy looking chain guard : (
 
bugnbox said:
$2700 actually...seemed like a screaming deal to me.

More Yorba Linda connections...(insert Twillight Zone music here) :shock:

That's quite strange.

The bike looks much better in the photos than it does up close. It seems that most everything is loose and several broken bits like a headlight bracket, the ignition switch dealie is broken, pipes are loose and hanging, turn signals are a mess...etc etc. I will take some detailed photos to post on the blog page so you all can see what I am dealing with.

I do want to fire it up and try to ride it at least once before I tear it down though. :D
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Great deal for $2700. I dumped $4000 on mine (after wasting $500 on the drive to Chicago to get it, and then quickly proceeded to dump another ~$750 in "needed" parts and about $500 in "I want this" parts. Surely, more expense is right around the corner.

Then again, mine ran when we got it, even if it was a bit rough. That being said, I saw no need to ride it in its current condition and opted instead to tear it down completely with dad to make sure everything was 'fresh' before entrusting my life to it.. :)

-Jordan
 
I know very well the price of the bike was only the ticket in the door, and I am in no hurry to get it done as I have other bikes to ride. I am also aware of my capabilities and while I drool at the perfect examples, I know mine will be just shy of those, but that being said, I have enough successful vehicle builds under my belt (even a few magazine pages! :D ) so it wont end up being an amateur job unless I let it be one due to my own lazyness...which does come into play at times (maybe more often than not!). I have always been more of a car guy than a bike guy but that seems to be changing a bit as the cycles take their place in the shop. The Norton is a new canvas on which to paint , but I already know how to hold a brush at least. :D

Authenticity issues and history and what parts fit what...and any issues that are known to be trouble spots...these are the things that I totally need and want the help with. I wanna learn from everybody elses mistakes if I can! :lol:

I have already been scanning ebay for parts and have already bought the fuel line set up and a taillight lens.

I was watching the gold side cover on ebay but I am not convinced that it is the correct part for my bike...can any "gurus" confirm?


The original owner obviously had an attachment to it, but he hardly kept it in good repair. The only good part of it is that it was stored indoors and never modified. But it was dropped and knocked around like an old water heater. He didnt have the time, desire or money to make it right and keep it up. Quite frankly he sold it because he needed the funds...if he didnt, it would have continued to get worse with more layers of garage good piled upon it.

On the clocks...Im thinking of just sending them to a buddy that rebuilds these sorts of things and let him at it...but keep the mileage set where it is.

Any points toward the best places to "get the goods" is really welcome as well.
 
bugnbox said:
I know very well the price of the bike was only the ticket in the door, and I am in no hurry to get it done as I have other bikes to ride. I am also aware of my capabilities and while I drool at the perfect examples, I know mine will be just shy of those, but that being said, I have enough successful vehicle builds under my belt (even a few magazine pages! :D ) so it wont end up being an amateur job unless I let it be one due to my own lazyness...which does come into play at times (maybe more often than not!). I have always been more of a car guy than a bike guy but that seems to be changing a bit as the cycles take their place in the shop. The Norton is a new canvas on which to paint , but I already know how to hold a brush at least. :D

Authenticity issues and history and what parts fit what...and any issues that are known to be trouble spots...these are the things that I totally need and want the help with. I wanna learn from everybody elses mistakes if I can! :lol:

I have already been scanning ebay for parts and have already bought the fuel line set up and a taillight lens.

I was watching the gold side cover on ebay but I am not convinced that it is the correct part for my bike...can any "gurus" confirm?


The original owner obviously had an attachment to it, but he hardly kept it in good repair. The only good part of it is that it was stored indoors and never modified. But it was dropped and knocked around like an old water heater. He didnt have the time, desire or money to make it right and keep it up. Quite frankly he sold it because he needed the funds...if he didnt, it would have continued to get worse with more layers of garage good piled upon it.

On the clocks...Im thinking of just sending them to a buddy that rebuilds these sorts of things and let him at it...but keep the mileage set where it is.

Any points toward the best places to "get the goods" is really welcome as well.
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I'm certainly no guru, but I'm pretty sure that's the right cover for you. It looks just like the left-side cover I removed from my roadster setup before I sold it! :)

My rebuild marks the first time I've messed with any sort of vehicle--car, bike, or otherwise, aside from car stereos on which I spent a lot of money building in my younger days.. I've never been particularly mechanically inclined. For example, my 1994 Ford Mustang GT is off at my friend's house right now having a turbo installed. I haven't done any of the work on it. :p

The thing that makes me laugh the most about the bike I bought for 4k is that the guy said it was safe to "ride home"..from Chicago to Kansas. LOL, not even close. For one, it ran pretty rough. For two, the clutch stuck. Three, it leaks like a sieve.. But it was safe to drive 900 miles..LMAO. It will be an interesting road for my bike, but it should be fun. I think you'll enjoy fixing yours up, too. :)

-Jordan
 
Im old hat with cars, but pretty fresh on building bikes (unless you count my Scooter phase in my early days)...but the approach is pretty much the same...fix it and make it look pretty and tune it right.

On the side cover...I think since mine is an electric start model, the side cover is different somehow???
 
Sidecovers. Those are both pre-75. Nearly all right hand covers will match all bikes but lefts are different for 75. The 75 did not have the tool box and has only one hole on the back instead of two. They are harder to come by so keep a close eye on ebay. Of course this is for roadsters which you have, Interstate covers are different yet again. The Parts Book is great help for this stuff.

I like the white tank a lot, but then I like the blue, the orange, the black, the gold, the .....

Vendor comments, Old Britts,Fred and Ella, are good people and provide good service. Have known them for a long time.

Have fun with the project. Nothing I like better than the sound of my Norton.
 
Thanks for the clarification...I thought it looked different...now I know for sure!

The more I look around, the more Im liking the white...it's a bit more unique perhaps...but Im with you, they are all beautiful.

I have not yet heard my baby sing...but I look forward to it!
 
Already taking a ribbing for the e-start How about if I promise never to use it?
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From what I read on the forum, you won't very often.

You and KSUWildcatFan have at least one thing in common, you both STOLE your bikes.

Looks like there are two paint jobs on this forum. First is the fairly inexpensive one 2 - 4 hundred for a nice two part with cutout decals. Second, bend over and break out the vaseline.

Welcome.
 
Too bad they didn't take a photo of what they saw when re-finding it after the snow had melted enough to spot it chained to that fence post. For some reason your story reminds me of a time I took in an old stray hound dog that had been very badly abused and beat up. With a lot of love, care and affection (and lots of good food) I learned why they say "a dog is a man's best friend". I think your Norton has found it's happy home.
 
From the updated blog photos, it seems that the front wheel assembly and fender (no front fender stay on a Mk3) are not the original parts-as they appear to be from an earlier '72-'74 Commando, and presumably that is the reason why the front brake is on the right hand side and not the usual left side on the 850 Mk3.

It is possible to swap the complete fork and wheel assembly around-so the brake is on the left, however your Mk3 seems to have the pre-Mk3 front hub with the threaded bearing retaining ring instead of the Mk3 circlip retainer, and there have been warnings issued about reversing the pre-Mk3 hub because there is the possibility that the threaded bearing retaining ring could unscrew if the hub rotation is reversed, and this has been discussed on the forum before, and a theory has been put forward that the retainer could not unscrew because it is held in position by the spacer and fork leg. However I think you need be aware of this potential problem before you made any decisions about reversing the wheel/brake/fork assembly.
 
Diablouph said:
Already taking a ribbing for the e-start How about if I promise never to use it?
Click to expand...

From what I read on the forum, you won't very often.

You and KSUWildcatFan have at least one thing in common, you both STOLE your bikes.

Looks like there are two paint jobs on this forum. First is the fairly inexpensive one 2 - 4 hundred for a nice two part with cutout decals. Second, bend over and break out the vaseline.

Welcome.
Click to expand...

LOL
 
L.A.B. said:
From the updated blog photos, it seems that the front wheel assembly and fender (no front fender stay on a Mk3) are not the original parts-as they appear to be from an earlier '72-'74 Commando, and presumably that is the reason why the front brake is on the right hand side and not the usual left side on the 850 Mk3.

It is possible to swap the complete fork and wheel assembly around-so the brake is on the left, however your Mk3 seems to have the pre-Mk3 front hub with the threaded bearing retaining ring instead of the Mk3 circlip retainer, and there have been warnings issued about reversing the pre-Mk3 hub because there is the possibility that the threaded bearing retaining ring could unscrew if the hub rotation is reversed, and this has been discussed on the forum before, and a theory has been put forward that the retainer could not unscrew because it is held in position by the spacer and fork leg. However I think you need be aware of this potential problem before you made any decisions about reversing the wheel/brake/fork assembly.
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good eye! How can you tell the difference in the hubs?... My 75 has a ring around the middle of the hub on the outside- is that how u can tell?
 
Beautiful bike! Great addition to your stable.... I agree with whoever it was that said you stole it. You might think it's a little rough now, but when you disassemble it and start polishing the aluminum and painting the simple parts, you'll be shocked how quickly the bike begins to shape up. But, judging by your stable, you probably know the drill....

For my $0.02, I wouldn't sweat the measuring of tank stripes and stuff, just send the tank and side covers to the Vintage Vendor and be done with it....

Anyway, beautiful bike..... (I might be a little biased since I have one just like it.... )

Gasp! Another silly newbie joins the fold...


Rod
 
The fellow said they did take a picture of the bike in the snow when they found it...but it is deep in a trunk full of old photos and it will take a while to find. I will beg him with no mercy until it surfaces!

The front wheel thing is curious. I spoke to him at length about any changes at all on the bike and other than the paint touch up he never changed a thing. Im pretty sure he would remember a front wheel and fender replacement...that would normally follow a fall I would think?

Im not sure about Nortons, but with other brands of vehicles I have researched, I have found that when it really comes down to the details, there are often inconsistancies due to the manufacturer using up old stock. With this bike and it's history, I am inclined to restore it just as it is, rather than chase some mysterious "should be" list of model parts...plus the idea of the ring getting loose while riding does not sound like much fun!!

I do know that the bikes were shipped in crates with the front wheel off...perhaps this swap was done at the dealer?
I really do not think it was changed during the life of the bike though.

On the paint...Im going to do it myself...Ive got the skills for that...it is one of the parts I truly enjoy the most with a restoration.
 
bugnbox said:
The fellow said they did take a picture of the bike in the snow when they found it...but it is deep in a trunk full of old photos and it will take a while to find. I will beg him with no mercy until it surfaces!

The front wheel thing is curious. I spoke to him at length about any changes at all on the bike and other than the paint touch up he never changed a thing. Im pretty sure he would remember a front wheel and fender replacement...that would normally follow a fall I would think?

Im not sure about Nortons, but with other brands of vehicles I have researched, I have found that when it really comes down to the details, there are often inconsistancies due to the manufacturer using up old stock. With this bike and it's history, I am inclined to restore it just as it is, rather than chase some mysterious "should be" list of model parts...plus the idea of the ring getting loose while riding does not sound like much fun!!

I do know that the bikes were shipped in crates with the front wheel off...perhaps this swap was done at the dealer?
I really do not think it was changed during the life of the bike though.

On the paint...Im going to do it myself...Ive got the skills for that...it is one of the parts I truly enjoy the most with a restoration.
Click to expand...

All correct to the bike or not, I say restore it in whatever way you wish.

Mine won't be "original" and I don't really care to add extra expense just to make it such. I'm going to make it look as good as I can for my own liking. :)

-Jordan
 
pelican said:
How can you tell the difference in the hubs?... My 75 has a ring around the middle of the hub on the outside- is that how u can tell?
Click to expand...

Yes, the Mk3 hub has the groove on the face opposite the disc.
Also, the inner and outer spoke sets radiate away from the hub in the opposite direction to the pre-Mk3 disc hub. As a result the Mk3 front wheel rim is Dunlop type MC288.

Gasp! Another silly newbie joins the fold...
 
Welcome Randy!

It looks like you have a great bike for your first Norton build. Most everything is there and nothing cut up or cobbled.

One of my favorite things about Commandos is that the value of a 100% original restoration is not much different than a nicely fettled one modified for the owner's taste and reliability. So decide how you want it and do it!

The side cover flew off because the original airbox is gone. The Mk3 sidecover uses a Dzus-type button to fasten it to the airbox. So, if you are going for completely original you will need to source both a Mk3 airbox and a Mk3 sidecover.

If you plan to use a K&N filter or change to a single Mikuni or a set of sexy Keihin flatslide carbs, then you have the option of using an early sidecover or the Mk3. In either case you will need to fabricate some mounts. The early cover can be used with the early frame mounted Dzus fastener, but you will need to fabricate a pin to mount the lower rear of the cover. If you use a Mk3 cover you will need to fabricate a mount for the Dzus at the top of the cover.

The option of using a Mk3 airbox is complicated by the fact that they are hard to come by as the only way to remove them in one piece is to nearly disassemble the entire motorcycle. Most owners cut or broke them to get them out. Obviously this is also a problem for installing one. Also be careful if buying one as the MkIIA box is quite similar but is lacking the sidecover fastener.

Decide what you plan to do about the air box before you spend much money for a sidecover.

Also I would suggest you either 1) go ahead and at least pull the head and barrels to check its condition or 2) get it running and use it for several short trips to satisfy yourself that it is in good shape before you spend your budget on cosmetics. No air filters and that rusty tank gives me cause for concern. Mk3 cams were notorious for being soft and this can be seen when the barrels are removed.

I bought a Norton a few years back that the owner swore had been rebuilt by one of the areas best known British mechanics. It probably was, but when I got it I had to bore it and put new pistons and rings in it and new guides and valves in the head. There were no air filters on it either.

You will probably want to get rid of that Portugese bearing on the transmission layshaft also.

As for the stripes, they were paint, not vinyl. I would take measurements and maybe trace a pattern before stripping the tank and spray the stripes on.
 
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