gas cap question

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mcns

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Feb 20, 2008
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Gettin ready to finally putting a decent paint job on my tank and the rest .
But when I fill my tank (not to very brim but close enough) it seaps out, I guess its a original but the rubber seems not to bad but I guess it is.

My question is that rubber replaceable or will I have to order a new cap?
If so, who sells good ones(Im guessing not AN from england)


cheers and thanks
 
I save old inner tubes and trace the old gaskets onto them and cut my own....
 
That sounds like a good idea but when I feel the thickness of the gasket it feels thicker than a innertube.
Do you double them up? thanks
 
You can double up, sure. I sometimes use one layer of rubber and one of cork - got a few square feet of thin cork from somewhere - I think it's for lining shelves, perhaps? - gonna last me forever.
 
RGM have them £1:40p each, I keep meaning to get one.
Cash
 
mcns said:
That sounds like a good idea but when I feel the thickness of the gasket it feels thicker than a innertube.
Do you double them up? thanks
Click to expand...
You can get plumber's rubber ( no jokes, please) which is thicker than an innertube and make one.
 
I replaced old seal on my cap with a new oldbritts seal and still had leaks that caused major problems on my new paint. After strpping off the paint for the second time I wanted to fix this cap to tank seal so this would not happen again. Turns out the biggest problem I found on my tanks seal was not the rubber seal but the spring. This spring was just not strong enough to make it seal properly. After replacing this spring I no longer have any leaks. Sure is nice to be able to fill the tank near the top and not worry about messing up the paint.
 
So what Im thinking is after I get my rubber and it still seaps that I might try jb welding a thin spacer on top of were the rubber meets the metal.

But I was wondering if the gas would break down the jb weld?

thanks for the input
 
JB weld has never been affected by gas and I've used it for a variety of repairs.

This is from their website (http://www.jbweld.net/faq.php):

Q: Is J-B Weld resistant to water and/or gasoline?

A: When fully cured, J-B Weld is completely resistant to water, gasoline, and about every other petroleum product or automotive chemical. For wet-surface or submerged water or gasoline repairs, see our J-B Stik or Waterweld product information.


Of course, In my mind "resistant to" and "proof against" are significantly different. But I've never seen it fail.
 
mcns said:
So what Im thinking is after I get my rubber and it still seaps that I might try jb welding a thin spacer on top of were the rubber meets the metal.
Click to expand...

You could do that, but the plate is spring loaded, so any extra thickness added to it will be absorbed by the spring.
I think what you need to do is maybe fit a stiffer spring, and also fit a new slightly longer piece of stiff rubber or plastic tube to the central boss (see photo) or shim out the original rubber, as doing that should help to keep the plate and seal pressed down hard against the filler rim? Of course, if the rim itself is dented, damaged, rusty or uneven then it probably never will seal properly?
gas cap question
 
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