Fuel Tank Rubber Bands

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Apr 15, 2009
Messages
11,520
Country flag
I got mine from Old Britts and it was an Andover part. It lasted, well, not very long. :cry:

Any suggestions? It was very tight and not easy to get on.

Should I have pre-stretched it? Warmed it up? Whispered sweet things in it's ear?

Are there other options other than from Norton?
 
Dave, some Hydraulic cylinders use square section O-Rings on their pistons these work well and long. Good luck buy a half dozen if you find a good size.
 
I have used a vacuum cleaner belt before. I don't remember what it went to, but it lasted several years.
 
I wonder how old some of these rubber parts are? I purchased a battery strap from Norton that lasted 2 weeks, Not worth returning. :cry:
 
Nelson said:
I have used a vacuum cleaner belt before. I don't remember what it went to, but it lasted several years.
What a great idea.
+1
 
I just put on new tank cap seal from Baxter's last pm and it went on pretty darn easy and Commando rubber sutff goes. Didn't need to heat it but hot water would soften some. I just laid in flat and stretched rubber into the crack then worked thumbs on each side till they meet and then a bit more to even up the seating. Hope is lasts another 3 decades w/o weeeping onto tank paint.
 
Hortons Norton said:
I wonder how old some of these rubber parts are? I purchased a battery strap from Norton that lasted 2 weeks, Not worth returning. :cry:

This sure didn't look old. I just think rubber just ain't what it use to be.
 
I have reused my old O-ring's from the oil filter sump on my 96' Trident. It's the big O-ring you get with your new oil filter. You could also take your old rubber band to a hydraulic hose shop to size it up with something they sell? Then in my area of the country there is the local farm tractor repair shop. They carry all kinds of neat stuff. :mrgreen:
I can't understand that the original rubber parts lasted for decades and the new stuff only lasts for months? Go figure ,,,,, :|


Tim
 
I'm using a piece of an old primary chaincase seal. Just cut it to the length you want with a bit of overlap and lapp joint with a couple of small tie wraps.
Its a bit more stretchy than the standard o-ring which is no bad thing.

Not sure how long it'll last, still on my first one.
 
I bought new andover rubber frame grommets. Some tore during install while the old ones are still pliable, just a bit grubby.

I'm pretty convinced that new anything these days is junk. Electronics, furniture, cars, houses ect.
 
Someone suggested going to McMaster-Carr, which is a great idea. I think I have enough to order from them to justify the shipping now.

I see they have big X-rings that might work. I wonder if they will hold up better than an O-ring for this application. There are a wide range of materials available in different levels of hardness. I have a feeling the stock ones are probably Buna-N.

Buna-N
Good oil resistance.

Viton® Fluoroelastomer
Used in applications requiring chemical and oil resistance.

Silicone
Excellent ozone, weather, detergent, and salt water resistance. Good high and low temperature resistance.

Neoprene
Weather and ozone resistant. Compatible with Freon.

PTFE
Most versatile resistance: acids, alaklies, synthetic lubricants, hydrocarbons, detergents, alcohol, refrigerants, and ketones.

EPDM (Ethylene Propylene)
Water, steam, and weather resistant.

FEP-Encapsulated
Perfect for sealing corrosive fluids. Virtually impervious to most solvents and chemicals.

Polyurethane
Excellent resistance to abrasion and tearing.

Kalrez® Perfluoroelastomer
Combines the resilience and sealing force of an elastomer with similar excellent chemical and temperature resistance of PTFE.

Fluorosilicone
Resists petroleum fluids.

Aflas
Offers excellent chemical, heat, electrical, and oil resistance.

Hytrel
Resists tears, abrasion, and corrosion.

Glass-Filled PTFE
Made of polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) with 20% glass content for increased wear resistance. Can handle higher pressures than standard PTFE.

I'll also grab some X-rings for the tranny seals when they go out, which won't be long.
 
I cut some bands out of an old 3.00 tube with the scissors. Don't care how long they last, there must be 500 in each tube.

Fuel Tank Rubber Bands


Dave
69S
 
Thanks DogT, just found a new use for my collection of old inner tubes that I can't bring myself to throw away but know can never see the inside of a tyre again.
 
kommando said:
Thanks DogT, just found a new use for my collection of old inner tubes that I can't bring myself to throw away but know can never see the inside of a tyre again.

I think I'll try the tube too. Great idea.
 
Hortons Norton said:
I wonder how old some of these rubber parts are? I purchased a battery strap from Norton that lasted 2 weeks, Not worth returning. :cry:


Lol...same here. I was putting my 'new' one on and the end just pulled off as I was tightening it. Chunked it in the trash and made my own.
 
So was looking the bike over today making a list of what's left to do. I checked my rubber booties on my iso endcaps, and one is split. The rest have tiny little cracks forming... wtf? they're not even a year old, and haven't been in the sunshine. Makes me wonder what the new iso's I put in look like :shock:

Maybe all these rubber parts are being made differently??
 
hey!

i just use cheap, black cable straps....not that beautiful.
But same straps hold my fat manx tank in place since years.

have a nice day!
chris
 
I couldn't see the reference for one of the tank bands on the Norvil and Andover sites, so went to a store that sold sewing stuff (a haberdashery store?) and got some round elastic which I tied into a loop. I have to hide the knot on under the top tube, but I was able to match the colour of my blue tank (same as DogT's above), so I was pretty happy with the result, for a couple of dollars.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top