Fuel Tank Mount

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Hi Dave:
You can use screws like the last post pic shows.My rubbers are 1" long with a brass insert.I just used a stud and nut to expand the rubber. I made the stud setup so the spacer rubbers and rubber inserts would stay in place when I took the tank off,just like the stock setup.Either way will work.
Bruce
 
Dave, what about a bar end addaptor, you can get them cheaply for push bikes. Or if you want to make your own, a rubber bush that fits the hole in the tank neatly, and fashion up a stud with a slow taper, so that as you tighten from below throught the mountthe taper is drawn into the bush thereby expanding it.

Cheers richard
 
stockie1 said:
Dave, what about a bar end addaptor, you can get them cheaply for push bikes. Or if you want to make your own, a rubber bush that fits the hole in the tank neatly, and fashion up a stud with a slow taper, so that as you tighten from below throught the mountthe taper is drawn into the bush thereby expanding it.

Cheers richard
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I'm pretty sure that's what a well nut is. Thanks for the suggestion!
 
Fuel Tank Mount

Got the rubbers from Old Britts today. Now I need longer bolts, but that's ok. I think the stock setup is two washers on either side of the bracket.

Fuel Tank Mount

Under the tank you can see the pad. This is the stock pad 06-2567 and look like it will work perfectly.
 
bpatton said:
The Old Britts parts look like just the thing. Who made the tank, what do they say? Remember that the brackets aren't supposed to hold up the tank, just stabilize it.
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Those are the right bits. I use them on an aluminium fastback tank.
To remove the tank I loosen the bushings and lift the tank off off them leaving all the spacers and bolts in place, use the standard large rubber washers to get the tank to the right height. I did find a problem with the bushings getting stuck after fitting dry so I give an occasional thin smear of silicon grease. They work very well.
 
Rich_j said:
bpatton said:
The Old Britts parts look like just the thing. Who made the tank, what do they say? Remember that the brackets aren't supposed to hold up the tank, just stabilize it.
Click to expand...

Those are the right bits. I use them on an aluminium fastback tank.
To remove the tank I loosen the bushings and lift the tank off off them leaving all the spacers and bolts in place, use the standard large rubber washers to get the tank to the right height. I did find a problem with the bushings getting stuck after fitting dry so I give an occasional thin smear of silicon grease. They work very well.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I'm noticing them sticking already. I'll hit them with the grease tomorrow.

Fuel Tank Mount

Tank to top triple clamp was TIGHT. I tried two on top, but had to go with one. With everything tightened down there is just a little clearance. I'll have to keep an eye on it.
 
A note for anyone interested, the "standard" length well-nuts that I'm using are turning out to not be long enough. The tank seems to come loose a little too easily when the bike is running. I'm looking for a source for longer well-nuts. They are out there but not easy to procure, yet... Stay tuned.
 
Dave, Dave, Dave, Dave, Dave.

Use P-11, N15, or g15 tank mounts.

'nuff said.
 
grandpaul said:
The rubber bungs are 1-1/8" diameter, 1-1/2" long.
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The holes in my tank are .75in dia, so I'm not sure how those would work. Do you have pics of them?
 
Walridge has the correct mounts for this Bartel tank. They are on the way and I'll update with pics when I get them.

The part number is BAR8 and they are $9.95 ea.
 
How big is the hole? I would tap it, plug it then drill and tap the plug to take the standard stud for the application.
Even if it's 3/4ish it is not hard to get a cheap drill and tap at HF to work into that soft alloy. The trick will be to drill and tap what ever you deside to use as a plug. Cutting and drilling a stainless 3/4 bolt is too ambitious. A simple skinhead will do the trick. The softest steel bolt will be x-harder then the tank boss. Red locktite to set.
Use as many rubber buffers needed to dampen.
 
pvisseriii said:
How big is the hole? I would tap it, plug it then drill and tap the plug to take the standard stud for the application.
Even if it's 3/4ish it is not hard to get a cheap drill and tap at HF to work into that soft alloy. The trick will be to drill and tap what ever you deside to use as a plug. Cutting and drilling a stainless 3/4 bolt is too ambitious. A simple skinhead will do the trick. The softest steel bolt will be x-harder then the tank boss. Red locktite to set.
Use as many rubber buffers needed to dampen.
Click to expand...

That was suggested but I'm not going to do that to an aluminum tank. You want the maximum protection from vibrations.
 
Fuel Tank Mount


Fuel Tank Mount


The cylinder is about 1.2" inches long, and about 5/8 in diameter.

These are what was supplied with my identical Bartel tank, I think you are on the right track by calling Waldridge.

BTW, I suggest that you start with 4 rubber washers above and one below the forward mount.

I'm with you on this, my tank is still being painted.
 
RoadScholar said:
These are what was supplied with my identical Bartel tank, I think you are on the right track by calling Waldridge.
BTW, I suggest that you start with 4 rubber washers above and one below the forward mount.
I'm with you on this, my tank is still being painted.
Click to expand...

I tried 2 above and 2 below but the tank hit the top triple clamp. With one above it missed by .5mm so I'm not sure what I can do there. When you get a chance can you post a pic of the installed tank and the handlebar/triple clamp clearance?
 
Fuel Tank Mount


Here's the difference between the mounts. The shorter one is the 5/16 threaded well nut that I had been trying to use. The longer one is from Bartel via Walridge. It appears to be metric threads (M8 1.25 I think). So I'll need new mounting bolts if I don't have some already. But this will hold the tank on way better. Phew, one less thing to worry about.
 
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