Fuel level test

Can't get it to fire up, so I pulled the carbs, blew out all the passages with carb cleaner even though they all seemed clear. Then I decided I'd set up a little fuel level test.

First the before. this is where they were:




And now they are here, after adjusting the tabs on the Stay-Ups:




No wonder the dam thing wouldn't start. A little fine-tuning to make sure they match and I'll put it back together and find out.

If you are being this fussy with float levels - after starting, diddle floats so best idle is a bit BElow 1.5 pilot screws out - which gives a tab rich off idle throttle response and still about perfect fuel mixtures as designed by Amal. I am leaving my Trixie Combat with fuel level set by pure guess & by golly just to get started but found the pilots are set best at *almost* one turn out. May not be best for econo mileage but I did not get Commando for saving money or time. Btw actual road going float level is set with them cannted not level.

Canted would have fuel running all over. I'll be happy if I can just get it to run on both after sitting all these years. I can get twiddly with it later. Pilot screws are set at 1 1/4 turn to start out.

Yeah man I can relate to just getting decent running relief and why I mention keeping the tip angle in mind. I need to hear others successes after repeated let downs to keep me encouraged enough to keep at it myself. I appreciate your lab clean parts views too.

Pull starting only got it to fire on one and intermittently only. Pulled the plugs and the spark seems inordinately weak on the left side. Plug was clean as a whistle. Fat spark on the right and the plug was black. I put it on the charger as soon as I got back and it only took a minute for the light to go green, so it wasn't due to a low battery. Boyer wiring was the only thing I didn't re=do. guess that's step next.

I now only ever type *boyah* as learned from mostly now dead Cdo owners who came to same conclusion as me, if you have not replaced boyah trigger wires then ALL BETS OFF on doing anything lasting till they have been. None the less boyah was what preformed best and longest for me, till the flimsy mount plate chewed up - after the intermittent frustrations of boyah trigger wires fixed via a kit by Greg Fuath- Decent Cycles. Could also just be one new plug will not fire well on reversed polarity wasted spark and need another new or old plug that will. Half my solutions have been pure trial error luck outs so pay me and logic nil attention in progressing your situation further.

http://www.decentcycles.com/

It's alive! After work today, I printed out a copy of the Boyer wiring diagram. Had one coil wired in reverse. Got the tank back on and it fired first kick, so I rode it up the road a piece and back to see if anything leaked. Might drop the floats back a bit- the carbs are a little dribbly. Got a little oil drip from the vicinity of the filter. New pipes sound good! My daughter said they were loud as hell.Now for some refinement and tuning.

Basic tune check is if does not need a tickle or choke for 1st cold start then its on the too rich side. Good float level should not dribble unless tickled and should stop soon as tickler released. Should not have to see dribble to properly tickle prime the mixture chamber but a bit of self contest to get count right and let go in time yet one step on joy. Kicking is for the poor state of tune Cdo and bad for the kicker splines so good to shoot for.

hobot said:

Basic tune check is if does not need a tickle or choke for 1st cold start then its on the too rich side. Good float level should not dribble unless tickled and should stop soon as tickler released. Should not have to see dribble to properly tickle prime the mixture chamber but a bit of self contest to get count right and let go in time yet one step on joy. Kicking is for the poor state of tune Cdo and bad for the kicker splines so good to shoot for.

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I hear ya. I've replaced several shift pawls for club-footed stompers who didn't keep their machines in tune.

Before tonight, this one was fired up once in the last 20 or so years. When it roared to life, the memories came flooding back like an over-tickled Amal.

hobot said:

I am leaving my Trixie Combat with fuel level set by pure guess & by golly just to get started but found the pilots are set best at *almost* one turn out. May not be best for econo mileage

Click to expand...

The only thing wrong with that statement is that the idle mixture screws control the AIR SUPPLY.

So if you are only one turn out, your fuel flow is set rather LEAN, and only one turn is needed to supply sufficient air to suit...

Reset the floats to about halfway between what the two pics illustrate. Also cranked the idle screws out a little and opened up the mixture screws another 1/4 turn. Idles ok at 1000 rpm. Still a little blubbery in on-off-on throttle openings, but seems to run alright when you rap it out a bit. The needles could be worn since they are original. Engine has 11K miles. Bored .020 over, new valves and guides, all done 20 years ago.