front wheel hub binding

Am I right to think there is going to be some slight rotational resistance from that felt seal which fits between the spacer and lockring? I wouldn't say I'm getting binding exactly, but, when axle nut is torqued down, for example, I get something like 1 3/4 turns of the wheel for approximately the same force that would produce 3+ turns when the nut is loose. I'm not sure if this is a problem, but the guy that laced my hubs was concerned that the spacer seen in the photo wouldn't spin completely freely.
Thanks, Brendan

Felt seal should have no drag. That's not it.

Order of assembly:



It is tighter to spin the left-sided spacer with a finger with the felt seal fitted than with leaving it out. I think the problem may be in the dust cover, though. There are some dimples standing proud around the outer edge of the inner aspect of the dust cover (circled in yellow). The dimpled areas don't seem thick enough to be touching the lockring, and I think I would hear that, but the wheel it does spin freely if I leave the dust cover out and the axle shoulder just abuts against the left sided spacer.


Thanks, Brendan

It looks like you upgraded to sealed bearings. You don't need the felt washer with them except to take up space but the dust shields help protect the bearings. The sealed bearings may be a little wider than stock, so Old Britts sells a modified spacer or you can modify your own. I think this is on their website but I think the difference is only a millimeter or so. There is enough space to nudge the new bearings a little to either side. There should not be any binding with tightening the axle nut.

Brendan S said:

but, when axle nut is torqued down, for example, I get something like 1 3/4 turns of the wheel for approximately the same force that would produce 3+ turns when the nut is loose. I'm not sure if this is a problem, but the guy that laced my hubs was concerned that the spacer seen in the photo wouldn't spin completely freely.
Thanks, Brendan

Click to expand...

Brendan,
The pinch bolt should be the last step in setting the axle. When the axle is tightened use a bar that will go into the hole of the axle (radial on the shaft) tighten the nut. I usually use a long star screwdriver. There should be a small space still remaining between the hub and the fork slider. About a 1/6th” You should see this part of the Axle. If you do not have this gap then I would investigate the possibility that the bearings are not fully home. The "left hand" retaining ring could or is still out too far. Once you get that small space bounce the front end by rocking the bike with the front brake on to centre the fork to wheel hub. Cradle the bike on the centrestand like a rocking horse. Then tighten last, the pinch bolt.
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN

Odd story about the bearings. I ordered them from a Norton supplier and didn't care much for the made in China single row bearing for the left side so got an SKF replacement from a local bearing supplier, and it happened to be sealed. The disk side double row is unsealed. One of the many things about my bike that may confuse future motorcycle archaeologists (my kids maybe). I believe it's the disk side bearing that in sealed form is slightly wider and requires machining of the inner spacer. I had thought the hub needed machining for this mod. I wish I had realized that before I shelled out $ 68.00 for the stock unsealed bearing.

As for the dimpled dust cover, which was a new part, I took it to a local machine shop and about 30 seconds work with a die grinder had the dimples ground flush. Now the wheel spins as it should. I havent done the bounce up and down bit yet as the bike is still on the lift and no tire on yet.
Thanks guys, Brendan

Walridge sells the double row sealed bearing. Worked in mine fine, no machine work, although some say it's not up to the job.

It sounded like to added another quirk to your Norton that adds to the quirks they start with. Glad there was a happy ending.