Front isolastic MK2

Bought a Hemmings front isolastic adjuster couple days ago that needs fitting on the LH end. Back iso adjuster is already Mk3 type but front still has shims.

Front bolt isn't a bolt but a double ended stud. Unscrewed LH nut yesterday and the whole thing unscrewed off the RH nut.

1. Would you unscrew and retract the stud from the LH end in which case the shims/etc will require recenterring to get the bolt back thro'

2. Loctite the RH nut, then try to undo the LH nut, the problem being that I don't know if the LH nut is loctited and I will then end up with two nicely loctited nuts???

3. Pull the stud out from the LH side when the RH nut comes off, grip with molegrips in hope the LH nut comes off?

I am trying to avoid taking the whole unit off the bike. It's actually not going to rain here tomorrow in the UK and I am gonna ride the bike!

Anyone still with me?

Ok I put adjustable front, the kind the front tube gets trimmed 1/4" off of and just look, to see it basically depends on if you can past the RH nut past the TS cover screw boss right there by turning a flat to pass, if so, it don't matter which way ya get bolt in and out. I'd take loose nut off and leave sleeping dog RH nut alone, treating it as a bolt head.

Thanks Hobot. It's the RH nut thats free. I'll just unscrew and retract the LH end in the morning and take it from there

with a jack under the engine...

What a barsteward of a job.

Central bolt came out easy but couldn't remove anything else. Decide to take the whole unit off...Tight as hell everywhere. Eventually got it off along with frame paint. Some a**hole had made a new design at one end for some reason. The whole unit length was 154mm whereas the inner frame plates are 152.5mm. Cleaned it up and ground/files 2mm off the ends. Filed around the front engine crankcase bolt (specially designed to foul with the isolastic and with the light use of a 3 foot crowbar and rags it went back in. Six hours but at least I got it going and gapped.

Went out at 4pm today (lovely sunny warm day here in UK today hence why the job wasn't straightforward) for a quick blast and all is well. Caught up a Ducati 750S and pulled him over for a look - a very ratty rider of a bike but I recognised the seat hump.

Pleasant end to a frustrating day.

:wink:

Well that's worth some feathers in your cap and strain in the neck. Mis made adaptions throw a monkey wrench into general advice. It took me two days of grinding and testing and frame tab spreading to get my Trixie Combat front iso back in with only a couple foot long wood as pry bar and hammering drift. More to go before road worthy.

The design is flawed. The adjustment caps need smaller end diameters as the frame welds prevent assenbly as it jams against the front engine casing. I'll not be removing it on a hurry again until I repowdercoat the frame. 2 years time...

The design is flawed. The adjustment caps need smaller end diameters as the frame welds prevent assenbly as it jams against the front engine casing. I'll not be removing it on a hurry again until I repowdercoat the frame. 2 years time...

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Yes I ran into that too, first time around brute bashing, wedging and long levers and scaring paint and bleeding knukles and strained mood and neck. This time around some repeat trips to machinists to make non traumatic assembly. Refreshing to know I'm not the only one who things don't workout as in manual.

About 8 years ago, after a "very" frustrating evening with the front Iso conversion, I went on Les Emery's website and vented.... big time.
Word of advice..... keep it off the manufactures website... felt like I had multiple ani after some strong rebutals on my skill set and nationality ... and a (sarcastic) "please don't buy my products unless you know what you're doing reply from the man. "They are perfectly designed and manufactured and there is nothing wrong with them, they should fit perfectly"

Taking that extra "p*ssed off" energy, I had an "Incredible Hulk" moment and forced the suckers into place by manually pulling on the frame rails for clearance. The neighbors thought someone was being killed as to let the stress work to my advantage I put the vocal chords to work as well.

My new build, I'll go the macihnists route or find a kit that has the "compensation" built in. Anyone know of one?


JD

Jeff, that so resembles my own turmoils avoiding defeat in Commando, it hurts again.

BTW while Ya got the cushions exposed, I cheated some by bench grinding a 45' bevel on large ones to leave ~1/4" wide flat rim, to add compliance for smoothness onset sooner and more surer. Helps to measure the adjustment range per turn of the threads so once installed can dial in w/o measuring, just by feel and still have idea of gap. I like looser over tighter as tighter don't improve handling that much but the smoother ride sure does.