front fork issue

The only thing the extra fluid does is reduce the volume of air in the fork so there's a tiny increase in the "air spring" effect when the forks compress. One extra ounce is good insurance against too low of a fluid level and the effect of that extra ounce is probably undetectable by man or machine...
 
o0norton0o said:
The only thing the extra fluid does is reduce the volume of air in the fork so there's a tiny increase in the "air spring" effect when the forks compress. One extra ounce is good insurance against too low of a fluid level and the effect of that extra ounce is probably undetectable by man or machine...
Click to expand...
Good to hear you seem ro have solved this. One item that can cause no damping...the damper rod coming undone from the top cap. Happened to my bike after getting it back from a "pro" shop that had the forks removed. I had a clunk going over certain size road bumps and eventually discovered the damper rods were no longer threaded into caps...either never threaded in by the pro shop or not sufficiently nipped up with the locknut and able to wind out. The loose rod ends were bashing against underside of caps at harsh enough bumps.
 
Good, I will not blow a seal. In other news I didnt realize that you can control the resting point of the fork with how much you screw in the damper rod into the top nut. I learned the hard way when I couldnt get the axel to go through both forks when fully extended. I had to try 7 or 8 times experimenting with damper rod to cap engagement but I finaly got it. thanks you guys for the help.
 
Peter Restaino said:
Good, I will not blow a seal. In other news I didnt realize that you can control the resting point of the fork with how much you screw in the damper rod into the top nut. I learned the hard way when I couldnt get the axel to go through both forks when fully extended. I had to try 7 or 8 times experimenting with damper rod to cap engagement but I finaly got it. thanks you guys for the help.
Click to expand...
Not sure I follow you....the damper should not be providing actual suspension support...that's what the spring's job, no?
 
I found out by screwing the damper rod in or out from the top nut will change the amount the fork will extend so if you dont check to see if the axel will slide through both sides after reassemly you will never get the wheel on. ask me how I know.
 
The damper rod end valve hitting the underside of damper body top and acting like the top out stop is a design flaw. To correct you need longer top bushes which will then provide a hydraulic top out stop using oil trapped between the top and bottom bushes.
 
Sounds like they should be the same but then your damper rod should not be clashing with the damper body.

Link ?
 
There are 2 types of sleeve, this is the one that stops the top out

jsmotorsport.com

Top Aluminum fork sleeves (2) to eliminate top out clunk

Provides hydraulic bump stop to eliminate top out (does not restrict fork travel). Includes oil hole plugs. Slit for hand press fit so they stay in place. Early model fork dampers that have holes…
jsmotorsport.com jsmotorsport.com

and this is the one that will not as its for the bottom clunk

jsmotorsport.com

Bottom Aluminum fork sleeves (2) for early models provide hydraulic bump stop to eliminate bottom clunk.

For early model fork dampers that have holes below the conical section at the bottom of the damper. Later models with holes in the middle of the conical section or just above the conical section do…
jsmotorsport.com jsmotorsport.com
 
The top bush extension sleeves being installed but the rods still determining the length of the fork say you have an issue or had an issue. Your rods are/were likely too short so the sleeves are/were still not coming into play or maybe by unscrewing the rods to get the axle in you have fixed it ad the sleeves are now in play. Put the bike on the centre stand, do you get a clunk as the forks extend.
 
These sleeves will be only slightly longer than when they do nothing as they state the fork travel is not affected. Hopefully by backing out the rods from the top nuts you have brought them back into play. A check for when you are nearer to be finished. If not fixed then I would be fitting longer rods or backing them out from the fork nuts further.
 
Im going to have seat the front end assembly by exercising the suspension end and tighten everything. pull the axel out and see if its binding and revisit the top nuts to rod adjustment. thanks
 

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