Front drum brake

On ebay, and all other online sites, any advertisement which sees the sale of the original front drum brakes, go at incredible high prices!.
Why?.
Yet, it is not that a very good brakes!
Undoubtedly it is beautiful and shining.

Font disc brake Commando's were most likely made in higher production numbers,the earlier parts to come available depend on bikes being parted out,supply and demand.
In saying that though bare front disc brake hubs fetch good money.
There was a Mk3 rear wheel (very rusty rim,no cush drive/carrier) on Australia eBay,it sat on $120 for most of the auction then sold for $310 for what was basically the bare hub.
I was thinking in for the bargain. :roll:



There is a very nice 1970 hub and brake on eBay right now.

They do not work but they look like they should hence the price.

They can be made to work perfectly acceptable for a brake of that vintage. I spent several hours on mine arcing the shoes to fit the drum, and making sure the shoes are centered while tightening the axle. Other thing is to correctly adjust the lever, the shoes have to contact equally, I never knew the brake could even work until I did all this. Now it will haul me down from 60 or more respectfully. But don't expect to race with it, 2nd and 3rd haul down starts to fade pretty severely. May help to buy the high friction shoes too, RGM or Eurotrash. I did a write up on it a couple years ago.

I had a Triumph friend comment on how good my front brake worked.

Yes, they're too expensive but nice to look at.



BTW, I got the Eurotrash stainless linkage yesterday, it's acceptable, but I wish I could find the original type clips for the pins in stainless. Cotter type were sent with the stainless set, plus they used a standard nut instead of a jam nut, but I can fix that.

Dave
69S

If you think the drum brakes ate expensive second hand, look at the prices of wideline feather bed frames, that go for about £700+ for a fifty year old frame :!:

$1500 for a manx frame seems cheap to me. Replica frames cost $2,500 in Australia. I saw one for $1300 - you would not use it. I've been looking for a commando backing plate to fit t o a conical Hunter hub, They seem to be around $350 - you can buy a lot of disc brake for that, and it won't do nasty things to you.

DogT said:

They can be made to work perfectly acceptable for a brake of that vintage. I spent several hours on mine arcing the shoes to fit the drum, and making sure the shoes are centered while tightening the axle. Other thing is to correctly adjust the lever, the shoes have to contact equally, I never knew the brake could even work until I did all this. Now it will haul me down from 60 or more respectfully. But don't expect to race with it, 2nd and 3rd haul down starts to fade pretty severely. May help to buy the high friction shoes too, RGM or Eurotrash. I did a write up on it a couple years ago.

I had a Triumph friend comment on how good my front brake worked.

Yes, they're too expensive but nice to look at.
BTW, I got the Eurotrash stainless linkage yesterday, it's acceptable, but I wish I could find the original type clips for the pins in stainless. Cotter type were sent with the stainless set, plus they used a standard nut instead of a jam nut, but I can fix that.

Dave
69S

Click to expand...

#1
Mine works as well as any drum braked bike I've had, but they have to be set up right from the start. I probably don't push it as hard as most either, but it's acceptable for what I do.
Guess I should have looked into prices a little closer before I sold my extra complete front wheel assy. Let a friend have it for $175.00 US

acotrel said:

$1500 for a manx frame seems cheap to me. Replica frames cost $2,500 in Australia. I saw one for $1300 - you would not use it. I've been looking for a commando backing plate to fit t o a conical Hunter hub, They seem to be around $350 - you can buy a lot of disc brake for that, and it won't do nasty things to you.

Click to expand...

We are straying off subject here, but be careful calling a common old featherbed frame a 'manx' frame.
Chalk and cheese - and so are the prices.
Manx frame is lightweight thinwall hi-tensile tubing = true exotica, for the era.

Has anyone mentioned the stiffening kit for Nortons TLS front brake.
Stops the backplate flexing, and gives a degree of better braking...

Rohan said:

Has anyone mentioned the stiffening kit for Nortons TLS front brake.
Stops the backplate flexing, and gives a degree of better braking...

Click to expand...

I haven't tried that. It's pretty pricy, you not only need the backing plate but you have to replace the spindles and it drives the price way up. I found it good enough without the backing plate. Certainly better than when I used to ride it and think dragging my feet or shifting down was better than the front brake. I used to plan 3 miles in advance of where I wanted to stop. It could get exciting around the DC beltway.

Dave
69S

DogT said:

Rohan said:

Has anyone mentioned the stiffening kit for Nortons TLS front brake.
Stops the backplate flexing, and gives a degree of better braking...

Click to expand...

I haven't tried that. It's pretty pricy, you not only need the backing plate but you have to replace the spindles and it drives the price way up. I found it good enough without the backing plate. Certainly better than when I used to ride it and think dragging my feet or shifting down was better than the front brake. I used to plan 3 miles in advance of where I wanted to stop. It could get exciting around the DC beltway.

Dave
69S

Click to expand...

Part of what I meant by setting it up right from the start. I did it to mine along with having the drum skimmed after relacing and arcing in the shoes the way you did. That and modern linings made a WORLD of difference.

I have the drum brake on my 71 Fastback. When I restored the bike I had the drum arced to the shoes and installed the stiffener plate kit. It required some machine work but the brake works very well. I was not expecting much since I remembered my original Commando back in 1971 and to be honest, I was impressed and glad I went to the extra expense and work. The bike should be ridden within the limits of the rider and the available brakes, in my case ,that is very conservatively. Craig

Years ago when I was looking for disc brake hubs to build a good Brembo brake system, I passed on a few TLS hubs and backing plates for less than $50. Now that I need a couple for projects, they are selling for $300!! I don't understand the sudden interest, but they are a nice looking wheel.

They are cheap compared to anything with four leading shoes.
I have been watching eBay and the land of internets for a long time in the quest for a 4LS for the Eldorado,I think the last one was some $1500.


Current bid: US $169.02

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1970-Norton- ... 20db40e677

Everything used to be cheap. :lol:
My 73 750 GT cost some $3500 in the 1990's or was it $2500.
The last H2A cost $1800,the one before $800.
How about a 1964 1/2 427 Low Riser for $1000 stock bore,stock crank.
Those were the days. 8)

a standard 71 front Drum , with machined race lineings , admitadly in a 250Lb Triton Al uminum thing , would outbrake horrible overweight GSX Katanas deciseively - though evened out more after a few laps when theres had warmed up .
and maybe mine had adding a few feet to the 100 mph brakeing point .

For a road bike , short of full weelie fully loaded down a mountain pass , if regularly serviced ( cleaned ) and adjusted correctly work pretty well . Mine had no ' stiffening kit ' . Less frightening in serious use / highway , than the late 60s Triumph
unit . A big advantage with a disc set up is it exposed to the ( cooling ) air . If your rideing moderately rather than trying to blow of the hondas , the drum set up set up well dosnt require quite the lever pressure of the Norton Disc .

On the Triton it was Two Fingers - Raceing . On the road with it , carelessly grabing a handfull would have it howling and smokeing . Not brilliant looking at the back of a bus , Very good manouverability though thankfully .

acotrel said:

$1500 for a manx frame seems cheap to me. Replica frames cost $2,500 in Australia. I saw one for $1300 - you would not use it. I've been looking for a commando backing plate to fit t o a conical Hunter hub, They seem to be around $350 - you can buy a lot of disc brake for that, and it won't do nasty things to you.

Click to expand...

I didn't quote a Manx frame.
Why would I want to pay that amount of money for an old wideline ROAD frame when I can get a brand spanking new one made -even a lowboy for around £1500 :?:

I suspect the Triton builders have a lot to answer for regarding the price of front TLS assemblies - it's a pity no-one's re-launched the John Tickle 'period correct' item.

I rode a ex-race Dominator with Ferodo AM4 green linings on the front, and it was a very strong brake, and only a single leader if memory serves correctly.

If they keep going up in price a 4LS Fontana will start looking attractively priced!

http://www.manx.co.uk/products/hubs/f250f.htm