Front Disk Brake Rebuild

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kernel65

kernel65

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Does anybody have the part numbers for a complete front ('72 model) disk brake rebuild from the master cylinder to caliper? Included in the part numbers a decent steel braided brake line. All I've seen have been some rubber o-ring / washer type kits. There's got to be more than that to it...

Thanks.

Scott
 
Usually best to tear the components down to determine what is needed. Parts are available but rebuild kits only contain the consumables (rubber, springs, etc) because that is what is needed. Pistons usually only need to be replaced if rusted or damaged.

Caliper pistons are available from a number of sources:

http://www.steadfastcycles.com/cart/ind ... 73cbaf2f4b

Master cylinder piston:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Norton-Commando ... 0494478919

You might want to think about a sleeve kit for the master cylinder if you don't have one in there...improves braking power.

Here's a site with all sorts of Norton brake parts and upgrades:

http://www.clubmanracing.com/Pages/nortonbrakes.htm
 
Piston can be badly rusted and still work perfect as long as the oil ring seals seal. Piston rust can pit the bore so then must resleeve to next size down ratio. Piston rust can allow leaks out the lever plunger area yet work great on brake pressure and not leak in use just sitting in heat. If ya do keep original - red hot nail poke out the tiny rubber restrictor valve hole, will not help the leverage but sure allows that grip leverage to act on the caliper more distinctly for easier tire noise braking. If caliper plucks rusted best to get SS versions and never worry with that hassle again. None of the resleeve kits have any restriction which I now feel is a large part of what we like after resleeve. A brake job w/o much rust is just the 2 seals at top and 2 at bottom as spring don't wear out unless rusted away.
 
kernel65 said:
Does anybody have the part numbers for a complete front ('72 model) disk brake rebuild from the master cylinder to caliper? Included in the part numbers a decent steel braided brake line. All I've seen have been some rubber o-ring / washer type kits. There's got to be more than that to it...

Thanks.

Scott
Click to expand...

Hey Scott, check out the previous post below :

new-norton-master-cylinder-questions-t16607.html

It has some links I posted for some excellent plastic coated stainless brake hose, in any length you want. Plus all the fittings and adapters and what not. Hope this helps ... Cheers.
 
kernel65 said:
Does anybody have the part numbers for a complete front ('72 model) disk brake rebuild from the master cylinder to caliper? Included in the part numbers a decent steel braided brake line. All I've seen have been some rubber o-ring / washer type kits. There's got to be more than that to it...
Thanks.
Scott
Click to expand...

Scott As far as the caliper goes, the description pretty much says it all. The only other thing left to do is replace are the pistons with stainless. Check the condition of the bore. The pistons could have done a number on it.
06-4243 Caliper Rebuild Kit (2 06-1930 & 1 06-2187)

When you get a braided brake line you need to get one that's the right length for your bars.
15-200004 Brakehose, Front, 26" Long, Braided Steel
15-200005 Brakehose, Front, 24" Long, Braided Steel
15-200006 Brakehose, Front, 22" Long, Braided Steel
15-200007 Brakehose, Front, 18" Long, Braided Steel
15-200009 Brakehose, Front, 21" Long, Braided Steel

The master cylinder is also just a matter of replacing all the rubber parts and checking the bore of the cylinder. I can't remember which part is supposed to get perforated with a poker but the retainer and the trap valve are necessary for the spring to work or else it would be a serious problem. What's the "restrictor"?
 
Oh yes must keep all the parts of Lockheed m/c installed for the stack length for correct spring action. That's why ya poke a hole instead of just tossing it out like other master cylinders replacing the Lockheed. The restriction 'valve' to poke out - at least 1/16"+ is in the end of the black rubber item on LH of photo. After feeling the distinctly more abrupt action i believe restriction was Norton worried about riders used to drum brake grabbing lever too much and crashing. I've fitted a too long hose by leaving out the stand pipe so lucked out.

item 11, pn 061944 Master Cylinder Trap Valve $7.43
Front Disk Brake Rebuild

Front Disk Brake Rebuild
 
Perfect. That was the info I was looking for. I guess I will start with a tear down and go from there. I'm sure I will run into some snags so I'll be back.

Thanks all.
 
kernel65 said:
Perfect. That was the info I was looking for. I guess I will start with a tear down and go from there. I'm sure I will run into some snags so I'll be back.

Thanks all.
Click to expand...

While you're at it you may want to consider a re-sleeve job to reduce the M/Cyl bore - makes an incredible difference to the brake.
I use the RGM Motors ones, but there are others out there.
The only downside is the brake pads don't last as long :oops:
 
JFWIW, I opted to NOT re-sleeve, and try the disc first. Fresh seals (and of course judicious cleaning/polishing of the bore) in the master/caliper, Ferodo pads, 12,000 miles later, I am satisfied with the front brake, panic stops and all. The tire will squeal when commanded by my right hand. Certainly not a two-finger modern type brake, but absolutely adequate and safe in modern traffic. Big paws (and at least SOME of my youthful strength :shock:) help to make it work. YMMV
 
Contact mike at Walridge Motors in Lucan Ontario for master cylinder exchange.

I think it's $200 CAD plus your core an the new one is sleeved to 13mm an epoxy coated.
They also have the braided lines, just let them know wich bars you have.
http://www.walridge.com
 
One last question for tonight:

I see that the reservoir side is 3/8x24 thread, is the caliper side the same?
 
concours said:
JFWIW, I opted to NOT re-sleeve, and try the disc first. Fresh seals (and of course judicious cleaning/polishing of the bore) in the master/caliper, Ferodo pads, 12,000 miles later, I am satisfied with the front brake, panic stops and all. The tire will squeal when commanded by my right hand. Certainly not a two-finger modern type brake, but absolutely adequate and safe in modern traffic. Big paws (and at least SOME of my youthful strength :shock:) help to make it work. YMMV
Click to expand...

I know a well set-up brake and big paws can squeal the tyre, but the sleeved down cylinder is waaaaay more controllable, and I generally only use 2 fingers, and have been known to hoon around a bit - my T140 got twin discs for ultimate fork-bending braking, but the setup on my Combat is just great. I put an RGM floating disc & AP caliper on my 850, and I'd say it's better still, but not by a huge margin - the biggest positive is the choice of brake pads opens right up

kernel65 said:
One last question for tonight:

I see that the reservoir side is 3/8x24 thread, is the caliper side the same?
Click to expand...

Yes

dennisgb said:
Torontonian said:
Good girls know about party -hat restrictors. No glove no love.
Click to expand...

:D
Click to expand...

I asked Mummy why these strange men found this so funny, but she didn't understand either :oops:
 
And if I don't have air, do I really want to go prying or sticking a pick into the those areas?
 
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